Sun, 02 Jul 2000

Hiker's paradise within driving distance

By Mehru Jaffer

No limousine or five-star hotel for the many addicted to nature's bounties just beyond the neon lights of Jakarta. Bounce off the gray concrete highway southeast of the city and step right into greenery so lush and air so fresh that it almost hurts to be there amid so much beauty. Within one hour's drive of the city, going south toward Bogor to Cibubur camping ground, the car ought to be abandoned and the rest of the day spent on foot or on a bicycle discovering a random maze of trails, a "fairy" world of friendly villagers, tidy kampongs, green rice paddy terraces and quaint bamboo bridges.

Geoff Bennett, a Canadian geophysicist who came to Jakarta in 1984, left behind a useful guide to all the hike and bike trails around the city for all those interested in the pleasures and rigors of the outdoors.

Soon after he came here, Bennett took his mountain bike to the paths around Cikeas River and explored up and down the river source to the confluence. Armed with a hand-drawn map, a compass, an odometer and basic Bahasa Indonesia, soon a small group of avid bikers regularly accompanied Bennett to find the smoothest trails and the most picturesque bamboo bridges.

Once Ken Pattern, a Canadian artist with a talent for lithography, also went along with the group of riders, dashing through the countryside south of the city in search of the charming but fast disappearing bamboo bridges. It seems that there are some 40 or so bridges that cross the muddy brown waters of Cikeas River out of which fewer than half are still made from natural materials. Before the intricate, sturdy arches suspended from one leafy bank to the other are replaced by soulless spans of concrete and steel, Pattern put all the bridges he came across on canvass and displayed it at an exhibition held here five years ago.

Apart from the bike paths, numerous foot trails are named in the guide book. The strenuous hike up Gunung Gede is already a known path where hundreds of hikers head toward the summit on weekends. The trail across the Gunung Salak crater is also well- known and often used. Less tiring than Gede, the route is a journey of spectacular views of sizzling, sulfurous volcanic vents.

The Jatiluhur reservoir provides an excellent hiking ground among the dramatic andesite peaks to the south. The trail around Gunung Parang, with an approach by boat and a steep climb to the summit, is a unique and exotic adventure. If strolling through the Puncak tea plantations has become a little boring, try the Arca Domas trail. Meandering majestically through the woods, in and out of several river valleys, this beautiful old path passes by the mysterious German war graves, set in an ancient burial ground of the Pajajaran kingdom.

The Bagogo trail through the limestone cliffs and caves above Cileungsi River is well off the beaten track and offers a visual feast in the midst of bracing, fresh air.

The author gives plenty of firsthand tips and tricks calling a hike in the Jakarta area a memorable adventure. However, there is a warning that all the trails described in the guidebook are challenging from both a physical and a route-finding viewpoint. To make the hike a happy experience it is advised to prepare properly, with a hike permit required only for the trail up Gunung Gede.

This is obtained in advance from park officials in the administration buildings adjacent to the Gunung Gede/Cibodas Gardens parking lot. Expatriates need to give names, passport numbers and the age of all participants along with a small fee. Police permits are required only for overnight camping.

By way of clothing, a hat is a must, sunglasses and a bandana for protection against the sun and to wipe off perspiration. A light shirt, long pants and waterproof hiking boots make the walk more pleasant. The best time of day to set out is early morning, preferably at dawn. When lost the most reliable people to get directions from are ojeks (motorbike taxi) drivers, warung owners, village elders and porters.

A small backpack with food and at least two liters of water, small change, a phone card, an extra pair of socks, shirt and a wind jacket for the summit are useful. The most important thing to do is drink plenty of water, eat local bananas, which can be bought cheap and are a great source of potassium which helps prevent cramps.

The most common first aid problems are blisters, scrapes, sunburns, mild allergic reactions and dehydration and therefore a first aid kit with moleskin, antiseptic, small bandages, sun screen, antihistamines and oral rehydration packets are handy on the trip that is otherwise free of cost.

To order your own copy of The Jakarta Hike and Bike Trail Guide call Myrian Radkovich at 7190339.