Hiker's paradise within driving distance

Hiker's paradise within driving distance

By Mehru Jaffer

No limousine or five-star hotel for the many addicted to
nature's bounties just beyond the neon lights of Jakarta. Bounce
off the gray concrete highway southeast of the city and step
right into greenery so lush and air so fresh that it almost hurts
to be there amid so much beauty. Within one hour's drive of the
city, going south toward Bogor to Cibubur camping ground, the car
ought to be abandoned and the rest of the day spent on foot or on
a bicycle discovering a random maze of trails, a "fairy" world of
friendly villagers, tidy kampongs, green rice paddy terraces and
quaint bamboo bridges.

Geoff Bennett, a Canadian geophysicist who came to Jakarta in
1984, left behind a useful guide to all the hike and bike trails
around the city for all those interested in the pleasures and
rigors of the outdoors.

Soon after he came here, Bennett took his mountain bike to the
paths around Cikeas River and explored up and down the river
source to the confluence. Armed with a hand-drawn map, a compass,
an odometer and basic Bahasa Indonesia, soon a small group of
avid bikers regularly accompanied Bennett to find the smoothest
trails and the most picturesque bamboo bridges.

Once Ken Pattern, a Canadian artist with a talent for
lithography, also went along with the group of riders, dashing
through the countryside south of the city in search of the
charming but fast disappearing bamboo bridges. It seems that
there are some 40 or so bridges that cross the muddy brown waters
of Cikeas River out of which fewer than half are still made from
natural materials. Before the intricate, sturdy arches suspended
from one leafy bank to the other are replaced by soulless spans
of concrete and steel, Pattern put all the bridges he came across
on canvass and displayed it at an exhibition held here five years
ago.

Apart from the bike paths, numerous foot trails are named in
the guide book. The strenuous hike up Gunung Gede is already a
known path where hundreds of hikers head toward the summit on
weekends. The trail across the Gunung Salak crater is also well-
known and often used. Less tiring than Gede, the route is a
journey of spectacular views of sizzling, sulfurous volcanic
vents.

The Jatiluhur reservoir provides an excellent hiking ground
among the dramatic andesite peaks to the south. The trail around
Gunung Parang, with an approach by boat and a steep climb to the
summit, is a unique and exotic adventure. If strolling through
the Puncak tea plantations has become a little boring, try the
Arca Domas trail. Meandering majestically through the woods, in
and out of several river valleys, this beautiful old path passes
by the mysterious German war graves, set in an ancient burial
ground of the Pajajaran kingdom.

The Bagogo trail through the limestone cliffs and caves above
Cileungsi River is well off the beaten track and offers a visual
feast in the midst of bracing, fresh air.

The author gives plenty of firsthand tips and tricks calling a
hike in the Jakarta area a memorable adventure. However, there
is a warning that all the trails described in the guidebook are
challenging from both a physical and a route-finding viewpoint.
To make the hike a happy experience it is advised to prepare
properly, with a hike permit required only for the trail up
Gunung Gede.

This is obtained in advance from park officials in the
administration buildings adjacent to the Gunung Gede/Cibodas
Gardens parking lot. Expatriates need to give names, passport
numbers and the age of all participants along with a small fee.
Police permits are required only for overnight camping.

By way of clothing, a hat is a must, sunglasses and a bandana
for protection against the sun and to wipe off perspiration. A
light shirt, long pants and waterproof hiking boots make the walk
more pleasant. The best time of day to set out is early morning,
preferably at dawn. When lost the most reliable people to get
directions from are ojeks (motorbike taxi) drivers, warung
owners, village elders and porters.

A small backpack with food and at least two liters of water,
small change, a phone card, an extra pair of socks, shirt and a
wind jacket for the summit are useful. The most important thing
to do is drink plenty of water, eat local bananas, which can be
bought cheap and are a great source of potassium which helps
prevent cramps.

The most common first aid problems are blisters, scrapes,
sunburns, mild allergic reactions and dehydration and therefore a
first aid kit with moleskin, antiseptic, small bandages, sun
screen, antihistamines and oral rehydration packets are handy on
the trip that is otherwise free of cost.

To order your own copy of The Jakarta Hike and Bike Trail
Guide call Myrian Radkovich at 7190339.