Go fly a kite over Jakarta -- but watch out!

In these difficult times for the great metropolis of Jakarta it is good to see that so much of its population is still able to indulge in the simpler pleasures of life. All over this vast city evidence of these pleasures can be seen, all one needs to do is look to the skies.

There will be seen a cacophony of activity that immediately reveals dozens, probably hundreds of people engaged in simple pastimes. What may be seen in the skies is a variety of flying objects -- each one put into the sky by people on the ground, in among the urban sprawl of the city.

Jakarta, with its huge traffic flow, has high levels of pollution that in turn limit the number of birds that choose the city as their habitat. However, certain birds can be seen swooping across the skyline.

Homing and racing pigeons furiously flap their way across and around the city. At street level, pigeon enthusiasts can be seen carrying their feathered friends in all manner of containers. Carefully, they will remove the birds from boxes, baskets and even bags; or an owner riding pillion on a motorbike will simply hold them in his hands.

Lovingly, they will stroke the feathers, slowly place the wings in perfect symmetry and meticulously check the animals' feet and legs. Then, often with a parting kiss, they will throw the bird into the sky and happily watch as it sets off on its way.

These birds are highly animated as they vigorously beat their wings to gain height and speed. Other flying objects in Jakarta's skies are, though, less animated but may be rather more colorful than the gray pigeons. When the winds are right, dozens upon dozens of kites may be seen in the sky bringing a kind of traffic congestion to the sky that reflects the road congestion below.

In Europe or the United States, kite flying would usually be associated with notions of calm and relaxation. Taking a break from the stresses and strains of life one might take up a kite, head for an open field or beach and, with a good wind, lift the kite into the sky to enjoy the soothing experience of watching it rise and glide on the air currents above.

"Take a break, go fly a kite."

In Jakarta, however, flying a kite does not always equate to such notions of peacefulness and calm.

Indeed, here kite flying may be an intense, dynamic and even hazardous experience. Kites in Jakarta are cheaply but quite ingeniously made with thin paper and splices of bamboo. Consequently, half a dozen or more may be purchased for just a few thousand rupiah, (and a half a dozen or more may be needed!).

With the intensity of development in the city, there are few open spaces from which a kite may be launched and thus some vigorous tugs and skillful maneuvers are required to get airborne. But vigorous action does not stop once the kite is up; in fact, quite the opposite is true.

Soon other kites will surround your kite and they will not be friendly company. They will be aggressive interceptors, each one ready to enter into a dogfight. The aim of this dogfight is to wind their way around your kite until, with a violent jerk, the "opposing" kite is able to cut your string and carry off your kite to an unseen, new and victorious owner.

The frustration of losing a kite in this manner is great. Just getting a kite airborne in Jakarta's intense sprawl and fluctuating air currents feels like something of a success, but to have the kite snatched away from you no sooner than it is finally high up above is highly annoying.

Even with the knowledge that the kite was only cheap there is annoyance. The value of buying a half dozen or more soon becomes clear as having lost one you are keen to get another airborne to avenge the loss in a new dogfight.

But considerable skills are required to be successful in kite dogfights because, as a rookie in such challenges, half a dozen kites can and probably will soon be lost to more experienced, skilled "kite-fighters". Having lost your kites, you can console yourself in the knowledge that they were inexpensive and, in the short time that you had them, they did manage to get your adrenaline pumping as you vainly tried to keep possession of them.

Some kite fliers in Jakarta, though, will not so lightly give up possession of their kites, perhaps because they are rather more than the typical, cheap but cheerful kites that fly. These kites are elaborately built and intended to fly to greater heights. With intricate designs and flowing tails they take on the appearances of birds of prey or mystical dragons. If one of these should break from its owner or be snatched in a dogfight, a manic and often hazardous chase may ensue.

Near to the National Monument (Monas) in Central Jakarta one such chase was witnessed. The people trying to recapture the lost kite were running and throwing weighted lengths of string into the air in an attempt to snag the loose kite string.

Eventually one of them successfully caught the string and was able to reel in the kite but the chase was dangerous. The chasers' eyes were fixed on the sky; what was going on at ground level was entirely secondary. This meant that they were running recklessly into busy roads and willingly bringing traffic to a standstill as they pursued the itinerant kite.

People driving cars must have been perplexed by this, perhaps fearing that a riot was underway as people wildly ran into the road, but they were able to stop and avoid the "kite-runners".

One motorcyclist was less fortunate. He was unable to see what was going on in time to avoid one of the runners and with a nasty screech and crack of his motorbike on the asphalt road he slid to a halt. Angered but unhurt, the unfortunate motorcyclist was soon engaged in a furious argument with the runner. Thus, kite flying in Jakarta may be a dangerous and quite obsessive, simple pastime.

The obsession of kite flying can also be seen in competitive kite challenges. These competitions offer money prizes to the winners and thus the fliers wear serious expressions as they vie with their opponents to achieve the greatest distance and height with their kites. Often lined up in ranks of twenty to thirty kites, the fliers work with partners to launch their large and uniquely designed and constructed kites. Small but significant crowds gather to watch and admire the craftsmanship and skill of the competitors.

In the intense and frenetic life of the city there are signs that people are looking up to the skies and trying to see beyond their everyday problems.

Even though kite flying in Jakarta is not particularly relaxing it can definitely entertain and challenge but if you are new to the challenge -- watch out and be prepared for losses.

-- Simon Marcus Gower