Thu, 02 Jul 1998

Glimpse of Berlin's past and present through public bus

By Stevie Emilia

BERLIN (JP): Not much chance for Asians these days to do any touring. But a business trip may pop up, and if you happen to be in Berlin, there is quite a cheap way to get around.

Without a beach or much sun, the city may sound a pretty boring place. But it has quite a number of unexpected attractions within easy travel distance.

For a fare of DM 3.9, public bus number 100 passes many historical sites in the former western and eastern parts of Berlin.

The advantage of traveling by public bus is that not only is it much cheaper compared to a DM 25 guided tour but you can also stop anywhere you like.

Starting at the Zoo Station in Kurfrstendamm, or in the Ku'damm area, one can see a great city landmark, the ruins of Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church.

Built at the end of the 19th century, the church was destroyed by British bombing during the war in November 1943.

But the crumbling church tower, which is now located in the center of a 3.5-kilometer strip of modern buildings, shops, cinemas, bars and cafes, still has a hint of the old city.

Not far from the church, one can see the 67-meter high Siegessaule victory column with a gilded winged angel at the center of Strasse des 17 June.

Surrounded by the large park Tiergarten, the street was named to commemorate the 1953 revolt by workers in the East against Soviet powers, a bloody revolt which took 200 lives to 400 lives.

Close to the victory column, one can see the famous Brandenburg Gate topped with the Quadriga, a horse-drawn chariot.

Originally designed in 1791 by Carl Gotthard Langhans after the Propylea, the entrance to the Acropolis in Athens, the Gate, which used to be a favored rallying point for Nazi torch-lit marches, is now a symbol of German unity.

"I can still remember how happy people were, crying, dancing and singing, in front of the gate right after the Wall was opened," said Berliner Peter Prfert, who rejoined his relatives living in the former eastern part of the city. He was with a group of reporters taking part in an environmental course in Berlin, of which this writer was also a participant.

Near the Brandenburg Gate, one can see the remains of the Berlin Wall, where many died in an attempt to cross into the west.

The sign You are now leaving the American Sector, which is at Checkpoint Charlie, one of the famous focal points of the Cold War era, is still there.

In the east, stands an impressive building, Karl Friedrich Schinkel's Schauspielhaus, better known as the Berlin Concert House, and the neighboring French Cathedral with its domed tower.

Reinhold Begas' Neptune Fountain, located at the front of the red-bricked Berlin Town Hall, attracts many tourists, who simply sit around, enjoying the beautiful atmosphere.

That's as far as the bus goes.

Free maps at the stations or tourism offices in Ku'damm are the basic tools to take visitors further.

The museum in Charlottenburg Palace is a good start. Here, there are fine collections of paintings and porcelains, not to mention great numbers of museums across the palace, including the gypthisches Museum with its most valuable exhibit: the limestone bust of Queen Nefertiti.

The palace surroundings have been dubbed Berlin's Versailles for its picturesque gardens.

First laid out in the French style in 1697, the gardens were transformed into an English-style park after being severely damaged in the war.

With a lake at the center, one can leisurely sit on the grass, sleep or even feed the swans.

"Time goes unnoticed while you're here... It's so peaceful and beautiful," said Marcelo Teixeira, a tourist from Brazil.

Postdam is another good place to go. With a half-hour train trip one can see the beautiful Sans Souci Palace there.

The entrance to the palace, which used to be a retreat for the Brandenburg-Prussia king Frederick the Great, is guarded by two cluster pillars flanked by goddesses.

Topped with a green dome and ornamental statues, the palace looks out to a vast vine-terrace and Grosse Fontne, the biggest of many fountains surrounding the palace.

Shopping

Shopping choices range from a center for branded products, such as the KaDeWe store in Ku'damm, to the more exciting flea markets.

Most stores open from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday to Friday, up to 4 p.m. on Saturday and are closed on Sunday.

Flea markets sell souvenirs, food, secondhand books, CDs, secondhand clothes and art works ranging from paintings to sculpture.

"Prices are very cheap here, I'd rather buy souvenirs at the flee market than in souvenirs stores," said Nophadon Santiprapchantra, a tourist from Thailand.

He had a point. For instance, one can buy new CDs for DM 15 each at the flee market in Alexanderplatz, while a record store in Ku'damm sells them for at least DM 24 each.

And after one wearies of the attractions of Berlin's past and present, lots of cafes and bars are at hand for relaxation.