Giants of steam locomotion in state of neglect

By Tjahjono Rahardjo

AMBARAWA, Central Java (JP): They sit proudly despite their dilapidated home of a disused shed with a leaky roof, a reminder of the glory days of steam locomotion.

But, if the good intentions of some railway enthusiasts are realized, there will be more funds available for their upkeep.

The 21 steam engines from all over the country have found a final resting place at Ambarawa Railway Museum, the only institution of its kind in the country. The museum, located on the site of a former railway station in this small hill town, operates a heritage train that occasionally runs along Java's only rack-and-pinion line in special tourist trips.

A visit to the museum is undoubtedly an enjoyable experience, as the growing number of visitors testify. The pleasant climate of the area, combined with the scenic view of the Merbabu and Merapi volcanoes, is indeed worth the visit. Unfortunately, most of them go home with no better understanding of Indonesia's railway history, a long and interesting tale that dates from 1864 (Ambarawa station itself was built in 1907, replacing an older structure dating from 1873).

Information about the collection is practically nonexistent, except for the most basic data written on plaques next to each locomotive. It certainly does not stimulate one to find out more about these engines and their histories. There are no booklets or souvenirs that have any connection with the museum; the souvenirs that are on sale could be found in any tourist locale in Java, such as wayang (leather puppet) figures, masks or batik cloth.

Most of the locomotives are set up on individual concrete platforms, scattered about the museum grounds among shrubs and flowerbeds. They are treated more as inert objects, like sculptures adorning a garden, instead of powerful machines that used to speed across the countryside.

Ambarawa Railway Museum cannot be called a real museum. Despite its uniqueness, state-owned PT Kereta Api still officially classifies Ambarawa as a railway station and treats it like any other station in the country. And because running a museum is not part of its main line of business, PT Kereta Api, now functioning as a private company that has to be accountable to its shareholders, can only allocate a tiny budget for Ambarawa.

"My colleagues and I have to really think and work hard to make ends meet," said station master Sudono. It seems they have done a good job because, despite the lack of funds, the station building looks reasonably well maintained.

The impression is less favorable when one gets to see the locomotive shed, where the museum's "jewels" are kept. Although it is located within the station grounds not many museumgoers notice, let alone visit, it.

Back in time

The only locomotives in running condition, two built in 1912 and another one manufactured in 1966, making it one of the last steam locomotives built, are housed in this shed. There are also several passenger and baggage coaches, all dating from the turn of the 20th century, as well as some equipment from the same period. Visiting the shed is like a journey back in time.

It is the same with the workshops and the offices, which, with their antiquated furniture, look as if nothing has changed much in the last hundred years. In the bookcases are kept all kinds of railway manuals, regulations and posters -- many of them in Dutch -- which are meticulously cared for by Pudji, the depot head.

"Many of these documents are still relevant. In fact, if people paid more attention to these old regulations, train accidents wouldn't happen as frequently as they do these days," said the man in his 40s, who is a veteran worker on the busy Jakarta-Surabaya mainline.

All of these valuable objects and documents are in danger of being lost because the structures that house them are in a very bad condition. The metal roof of the shed is leaking and many of its skylights are broken. When it rains -- and it can rain really hard in Ambarawa -- water comes pouring down onto the locomotives and cars. Some of the glass windows are broken, and most of the wall plaster has peeled off.

A group of concerned Indonesian and British railway enthusiasts are currently trying to raise money for the much- needed work, especially to repair the shed roof. They are seeking the help of individuals as well as corporate bodies in the project, that hopefully will develop into a "Friends of the Ambarawa Railway Museum" society. Meanwhile, PT Kereta Api itself has provided a new washroom for the depot workers, in recognition of the dedicated people who work hard to safeguard the locomotives.

Some might argue the country has more important matters to worry about than some old locomotives. But they are important assets, both of the past and potentially of the future if the museum is developed to bring in more visitors, and they might be lost if no action is taken soon. After all, no sensible person would discard items of value, even during tough times.