Getting into the step of things on a trek through Tana Toraja

John Badalu, Contributor, Tana Toraja, South Sulawesi

Sure, tons of articles have been written about Tana Toraja's attractions, but it's also interesting to take a walking tour through the area.

There are fascinating landscapes to explore, in addition to the famous culture and its grand funeral ceremonies.

The best starting point is Rantepao town as all public transportation to around Toraja starts there.

Lemo to Londa: The walk from Lemo to Tilanga and then Londa will take about four hours. Take public transportation from Rantepao to Lemo, a journey of about 11 km.

Lemo is home to probably the most interesting graves in Tana Toraja. There is the legend of a Toraja chief hundreds of years ago who reigned over the surrounding district and it his house on top of the cliff.

Only his descendants can use the mountains as it is considered his property. The best time to get here is early morning around 9 a.m. when you can see the sun reflect on the rows of Tau Tau (the wooden carving of the dead figures). From there, you continue along a small pathway to Tilanga; keep asking directions from locals along the way.

Passing the beautiful rice fields, you will eventually find Tilanga, one of the best springs around. Its cool tourqoise colored lake is very refreshing, and when the sun shines on its surface, it creates a heaven-like scene. You are allowed to swim here.

Arriving in Londa, you will be greeted by the stretched balcony of Tau Tau at the entrance of the cave. You need a strong torch light to go inside the cave, otherwise there are oil lamps to be hired at the entrance. Inside the cave is a collection of coffins and bones scattered around.

Batutumonga to Rantepao: Take the bus to the north and make the first stop at Palawa. This village is full of Tongkonan houses, the massive high-rise rooftop traditional houses, and rice barns.

From there, go through the villages of Deri and Lempo before arriving at Batutumonga. The scenery from Batutumonga is quite spectacular. Its viewpoint covers a large part of Toraja and the surrounding valleys. Returnin to Rantepao is a pleasant 5-hour walk through Lokomata (big cave graves in a rocky crop) and small villages.

Makale to Sangalla: Makale is the second largest town in Torajaland. It is also a good base to go around the area. Pass through Tondon, then Suaya (the best place to see a row of coffins at the foot of a cliff, with great Tau Tau statues above, and there are 37 of them on three balconies).

Then bathe at Makula, the concrete hot springs and bath house before continuing to Sangalla to see a local palace, which is a grand bamboo house). The whole trip is about five hours.

Tips:

* Wear a pair of strong hiking boots.

* Prepare small coins, candies and packs of cigarettes for the villagers, and entrance fees for some places.

* Bring a towel or an extra T-shirt as it can be hot and humid.

* Bring a raincoat or an umbrella as the weather changes very quickly

* Drink loads of water to avoid dehydration.

* Ask for directions from the locals all the time.