French expedition explores Indonesia

By Jules Bell

JAKARTA (JP): In both the late 18th and 20th centuries, the Indonesian archipelago has been explored by sailing ships called La Boudeuse.

The first time was by Louis Antoine de Bougainville, during the first ever French expedition to sail around the world. Now a new generation of Bougainville's countrymen are back. As you read this, 14 French sailors are exploring Indonesia in a Chinese junk, named after its 18th century predecessor.

Adventure and discovery are the aims of the Spirit of Bougainville expedition, explained Captain Patrice Franceschi on board La Boudeuse, during a press invitation Sept. 4. Cultural exchange is also a focus of the voyage.

"The aim is to introduce the region to the French public through encounters with local people, especially the youth in the coming millennium," said the expedition's press release.

The voyage, which has a strong following in Europe, commenced on June 27 when the sailors left Cambodia for Singapore in their modernized and restored replica 19th century Chinese warship - complete with red sails and painted dragons. Following repairs, the adventurers departed Singapore arriving at Jakarta's Ancol Marina on Aug. 30.

Easily identifiable in his classic blue and white striped sailor's uniform, the ship's first-mate Marc Bonguardo said the trip is a world voyage, "but Asia is most important and interesting to us right now, so that is why we have come here first."

The adventurers departed Ancol Marina on Sept. 6, heading toward the Mentawai Islands off the west coast of Sumatra. Beyond Indonesia and its western islands, Papua New Guinea, the Philippines and India are high on the list of places to visit he said.

The collective aim of the crew is the exploration of Indonesia and neighboring countries and to learn about the cultures of the people they meet. The lifestyle of sailing and living on the boat seemed equally important to the crew.

"You don't breath the same air, have the same time schedule everyday and meet the same people," said Bonguardo comparing his present profession with working in an office. "You also use you body and brain at the same time," he added.

La Boudeuse's mixed gender crew includes two captains, two first-mates, a variety of experts including a geographer and an engineer and young French youth ambassadors. Most of the crew are experienced sailors, divers and travelers.

Anthony Albertini, 23, said he and his two fellow youth ambassadors won the chance to join the expedition after a contest held in regional areas of France. The inclusion of the young sailors is to promote cultural exchange between France and the countries visited.

"I am curious about the scientific exhibition. How ethnologists work and what techniques they use," he explained. "I want to discover countries I do not know, meet people and discover new cultures that are different from my own. When we leave we will be richer for the experience," said Albertini.

The crew, a collection of interesting characters, have individual interests and goals on the voyage. Geographer Archambeau Olivier said he had Bougainville's original maps, and that it was fascinating to follow his route and compare the old maps with their 20th century equivalents. "It is interesting to see if he made any mistakes," said Olivier, who has visited Sumatra in the past as a journalist.

The driving force and leader of the expedition, Captain Franceschi, is a man of vast experience, a lifetime history of adventure and an author. His eighteen books chronicle his leaving home at 19, and his adventures over 25 years through places including Afghanistan, the Amazon, and Central Africa.

He was the first person to fly around the world in an ultralight, and has participated in humanitarian aid programs in Somalia, Lebanon and Bosnia. With all this experience, what is his philosophy in life?

"Adventuring is a strong, free and true life," said the short but stocky character who would look right at home in a Hollywood action movie set on the high seas. "A true life is about curiosity and freedom all over the world," he said.

Almost exclusively privately funded, the expedition started with the purchase of a tourist ship that previously hosted the likes of film star Robert De Niro and former U.S. president Ronald Reagan whilst cruising Cambodia's Mekong River.

La Boudeuse, now a blend of 19th century styling and modern technology, was built in 1989, and purchased from its previous owners following financial difficulties. Three months of work began on the ship in April this year.

The restoration of the ship in Cambodia included three new masts and sails shipped from France and the addition of modern navigational and communications technology. Built entirely of wood, the ship is 30 meters long, seven meters wide and over six meters high. Below deck, these dimensions allow for spacious living areas and cabins.

"It is a dream ship," said Captain Franceschi, "a very beautiful ship." The expedition's photographer, Arnie Hodalic, agreed with the captain. "It is a beautiful boat to live in. We have everything. We even have girls on the boat," he laughed.

The sailors plan to spend one year traveling around West Indonesia, the Philippines and neighboring countries. They are yet to decide whether to sail east or west toward France, and plan to visit numerous countries along the way, eventually returning home at some point in the future.

But probably not for long. "I love being at sea," said Hodalic, and it would be a safe guess that the rest of the crew do too.