France's cheese tradition nothing to sniff at

By Maria Endah Hulupi

JAKARTA (JP): When people talk about a long, esteemed culinary arts tradition, it's a given that France will come up in the conversation.

One of the few countries which continues to honor its traditional cuisine amid the onslaught of the fast food giants, it's France (no, not the Netherlands) which claims the title of the world's largest producer of cheeses.

With around 400 cheeses from across the country, including the delicate blue-veined king of cheeses Roquefort, the smooth and runny cheese of kings Brie, the soft but bold aroma of Munster Gerome, the French can please their taste buds with a different type of cheese every day -- and then some.

And consume they do; France's per capita cheese consumption of 24 kilograms per year is the highest in the world.

One of France's 10 cheese masters, Claude Lauxerrois, who is making a return visit to Jakarta for the French cheese festival at Le Meridien until June 23, said the presence of big cheese factories had not put an end to the long tradition of producing quality cheeses in small establishments.

"Usually during special events, the cheeses served are those produced by small manufacturers that have obtained the Appellation d'Origine Controllee for quality," he said.

It is said that cheese came into being by accident in about 7000 BC when an Arab merchant found that the milk he stored in a sack made of an animal stomach had coagulated and transformed into curd and whey. The technique was refined and spread to various regions, including Egypt and Greece, as a way to store milk. Voila, the cheese tradition began.

Cheese production continues to undergo development, but Lauxerrois said maintaining standards in the production process -- including preparation, ingredients and proper storage -- remained important to ensure quality.

"The quality of cheeses is determined by many factors, which include the animal feed, climate, which would dictate the quality of the animal feed and the ripening process, the molds, the production process and the best time for consumption," said Lauxerrois.

Although some cheeses like camembert, brie and emmenthal are popularly used in cooking, he said traditionally the French ate cheese at the end of the meal, either alone or with a piece of bread.

"The reason is that salad oil can enhance the taste," he added.

The ideal cheese is one which reaches its maturity by the time of consumption. As cheese ripens it develops an appetizing odor, which also indicates that the cheese is in prime condition and has a delicious taste.

The son of a cheese maker, Lauxerrois began his long career in cheese production at the age of 15. He said he relied on his years of experience and his senses, especially sight and touch, to determine a good cheese.

"It is what I do every day and have been doing for years. I use my eyes and fingers to make sure the entire process has been carried out according to standard," he said.

The variety of cheeses featured at the festival is extensive, from soft and creamy textures to hard cheeses. Some have mild aromas, but others offer pungent odors.

But when it's time to decide which one to choose, Lauxerrois said it was simply a matter of taste. Diners may need to take a whiff of the cheese first before trying a taste.

"Some cheeses have very strong aromas but you will find that their taste is not as strong as they smell," Lauxerrois explained.

For the right wine accompaniment, he said it was best to choose a bottle from the same region for the perfect combination of tastes.

The rind on most cheeses is edible, but it is advisable to remove it when dining on some soft cheeses because "the crust may add a mild sour taste".

So which is his cheese to beat the rest?

Lauxerrois paused for a moment before answering that he used his experience to produce excellent cheeses of different types.

"By doing that, I've learned to love them all," he said.