Fort Marlborough survives ravages of time
By Budi Pristiwanto
BENGKULU, Bengkulu (JP): Grandiose and solid. That is the initial impression of Fort Marlborough in the provincial capital of Bengkulu, conjuring up thoughts about the time when the British built it 285 years ago.
The impression became stronger when I entered the fort's rooms of thick walls and iron bars, legacies of its former use as a prison and arms warehouse.
Strong feelings of admiration for this historic structure led me to ask myself: How did the people live at that time? What happened in these rooms?
Built in the shape of a giant tortoise, it was given the name Fort Marlborough by the British government in honor of John Churchill, the first Duke of Marlborough (1650-1722).
It was built on the initiative of Joseph Collet, a top official of the East India Company, on hilly terrain measuring five hectares. Construction started in 1714 and lasted five years; it was said that Fort Marlborough was as strong as Fort George built by the British government in Madras, India.
The fort is constructed with brick and rock held together with a mixture of sand and mountain chalk processed as cement. The floor has a concrete foundation and part of its surface is tiled. The roof is capable of sustaining a weight of 50 tons.
The strength of the fort has been tested by nature. In the monumental eruption of Krakatau on Aug. 28, 1883, the fort did not sustain significant damage even though the force of the eruption, equaling 410 megatons of TNT, destroyed 165 villages along the west coast of Java and southern tip of Sumatra. More than 36,000 people perished.
It is easy to reach the fort, which is located on Jl. A. Yani in the center of Bengkulu, to the left of Barukoto market and opposite Tapak Paderi harbor.
From the hotel area of Pantai Panjang, visitors can take a public transportation vehicle for Rp 500 (it is a 20-minute walk to the fort). From Padang Kemiling Airport, a taxi ride of about 10 minutes costs Rp 10,000. The ticket to enter the fort is only Rp 300.
A visit to Fort Marlborough allows us to enjoy other enchanting tourist spots in the vicinity, such as the Tapak Paderi coast, the Thomas Parr monument, the British resident's building (now the residence of the Bengkulu governor) and the old building of Chinatown.
In late afternoon, the views are breathtaking. As far as the eye can see there is the vast expanse of blue sea, with fishing boats pictured against the backdrop of the setting sun. A cool breeze makes visitors reluctant to leave before the late evening.
"Even the most skillful painter will not be able to transfer the composition of natural colors and the impression of freshness onto his canvass," said Jane, 30, a tourist from Australia.
It is not surprising that the fort is now considered a major historical attraction to draw tourists to Bengkulu, Sumatra's little known and least populated province. To ensure its preservation, the local government has designated it a protected heritage site. Annual budget allocations running into several million rupiah take care of the maintenance and repairs to the fort.
The fort is also home to a museum. Among the items on display are reproductions of paintings from 1794 by Samuel Andrews which show the fort and the surrounding community, duplicates of letters and printed material of the East India Company and portraits of the fort through the ages.
Fort Marlborough takes visitors back to the past when the British briefly ruled an outpost in Sumatra. It no longer serves to ward off attackers, but instead welcomes travelers who wish to see its enduring grandeur.