Former prison island takes on tourist identity

By Wahyu Mandoko

NUSAKAMBANGAN, Central Java (JP): The gloomy pall has lifted from Nusakambangan, an island south of the Cilacap coast in Central Java.

Mention of its name once drew shudders, as it was notorious as a penal island for hardened criminals serving long sentences. Nusakambangan has taken on a new, friendlier identity since its opening for tourism at the beginning of last year. Tourists from many regions and foreign nations visit Nusakambangan nearly every day.

The Dutch colonial government first designated Nusakambangan as a closed penal area in 1932, and this contributed to the preservation of many of its natural attractions. The 270 square- kilometer island has breathtakingly beautiful scenery -- the rocky Permisan coast, white sandy beaches, caves called Masigit Sela, Putri and Lawa, and stunning natural panoramas.

The business community is taking a long, hard look at Nusakambangan in the wake of increasing numbers of tourists visit the island. Projects under consideration include a floating restaurant, a hotel on the coast, setting up regular transportation services between Cilacap and Nusakambangan and a cruise ship for tours around the island. Currently, only day trips are available and advance registration is required. The development plans have been warmly welcomed by the regional government and the justice ministry, which own and manage the island.

The Dutch built nine prisons on the island. The Limusbuntu, Gliger, Karanganyar, Kalibanjar and Karangtengah prisons are now dilapidated and disused.

The Besi, Batu, Kembangkuning and Permisan prisons continue to operate, although they are running at around a third of their occupational capacity of 500 prisoners. Those nearing the end of their sentences and who have displayed good conduct usually receive reductions in their prison terms on Independence Day on Aug. 17 each year. They are also permitted to leave the prison grounds unescorted.

They learn how to grind agate stones, and to make handicrafts from natural and synthetic materials available at Nusakambangan. These handicrafts are sold to tourists, with the proceeds deposited in a cooperative. The prisoners receive the money for travel expenses and work capital when they are freed. Their skills acquired at Nusakambangan will be useful for finding work on the outside.

Conservation area

Nusakambangan is divided into four nature preservation areas: West Nusakambangan covering 928 hectares, East Nusakambangan with 277 hectares, Wijayakusuma with 1 hectare and Karangbolong at a half hectare. The Dutch colonists first designated them as conservation sites.

Nusakambangan is home to species of rare plants like the Rafflesia flower (Rafflesia padma), the Wijayakusuma flower (Pisonia sylvestris) and the Java platar plant (Dipterocarpus litoralis). Endangered animals such as the black panther (Panthera pardus), porcupine (hystrix brachyura), scaly anteater (Manis javanica) and python still roam the island.

Sightings of these plants and animals, now extinct in many of their former habitats, are one of the main draws for tourists, scientists, researchers and students.

Segara Anakan, the sea separating Nusakambangan from the Java coast, is also home to the threatened dolphin known locally as wersut (Orcaela Sp.).

Registration for a day trip to Nusakambangan must be made at least one week in advance, with a minimum party of 30. The trip costs Rp 15,000 per person. More information is available from the Cilacap tourism office at Jl. Jend. A. Yani 8, telephone (0282) 34481.