For Bertolucci, watchmaking is in the blood

JAKARTA (JP): What do Miss Universe and Buddha have in common? They've both tangoed with Bertolucci.

Albeit not the same Bertolucci. While the tale of Gautama Siddharta Buddha was cinematically told by Italian filmmaker Bernardo Bertolucci, the crowning of a Miss Universe is complete only when she is wearing an 18 carat solid-gold watch by Swiss watchmaker Remo Bertolucci.

"There are a lot of Bertoluccis in the area where my family comes from (Pisa, Italy). But I am now Swiss," Bertolucci said.

A youthful man despite his golden age, Bertolucci is a watchmaker whose creations are considered among the most exquisite of its kind. He attributes his craftsmanship to his Swiss upbringing.

"Where I come from (the Jura region of Switzerland), there are two things to do: make watches, or chocolate," he said plainly.

Thus the display at the Plaza Indonesia Atrium this weekend will not be of chocolates, but a rather more expensive commodity: luxurious, handmade watches.

As the legend goes, if anyone can make watches, it's the Swiss. Switzerland's French-speaking Jura region is particularly famous, gaining prestige for its specialization in assembling mechanical, self-winding watch movements.

"Watchmaking is part of our culture and tradition. In this area of Switzerland, everyone is involved in making watches. It's part of our blood", said Bertolucci.

Bertolucci's personal experience in the industry intensified when he married the daughter of master watchmaker Marcel Michelotti, whose business began in 1911. After 20 years of perfecting the craft, Bertolucci created his own collection in 1987.

After a lifetime of making watches, Bertolucci's eye is keenly aware of other people's hardware. Within minutes of our acquaintance, he zoned in on my wrist.

"You're wearing a distinguished watch," he said sternly.

Is that a note of disapproval in his voice?

"You have a beautiful watch, but it is not of the same quality," he answered.

And this is the foundation of his company: 100 percent hand- crafted manufacturing. Other manufacturers may assemble the external components with machinery, but Bertolucci watches are all made by hand. The discerning watchmaker took my not-so-cheap watch as an example of inferior watchmaking.

"Your clasp was made by a machine. The links were cut by a machine, that's why they have square edges."

Bertolucci takes off his watch, a heavy chunk of solid gold, for me to inspect.

"Everything is rounded and shaped, you see, like the pebbles on riverbanks," said Bertolucci referring to the bracelet.

"The feel is completely different. I want the design to be part of nature, like running water. I want customers to have a pure sensation when they wear the watch," he said.

So what does a pure sensation cost?

"The prices start at US $2,500 and go up to $100,000. Some jeweled watches can cost up to a million dollars," he said.

When asked why the costs are so high, Bertolucci explains that the long process of production, and the high cost of labor in Switzerland, dictates substantial expenditures.

"Every single watch needs at least 10 months work. Even before you assemble it together, the construction and sculpting of the materials already takes 10 months," he said.

"We are not a mass-production factory," he continued. "There are only 50 artists working there."

But a million dollars?

"Every art costs money," said Bertolucci, "All the famous paintings and sculpture in the world needs time. So do our watches."

Despite the considerable expense, Bertolucci contends that his watches are not status symbols.

"Lots of people buy watches not for the technical aspects but for the brand name alone. I want people who buy our watches to have them all their lives," he said.

If a Bertolucci watch is an item to be treasured and not a trendy luxury, how does Bertolucci find their market, especially now that the free-spending 1980s are over? Bertolucci is confident of its staying power.

"I don't think the market changes. If you analyze worldwide, there is always a demand for quality products. Everywhere you have good moments and bad moments. When the economy starts again, I believe that people dream about buying a good watch," he said.

The Asian market, Bertolucci explains, is a particularly positive market. Bertolucci has been in Asia for 80 years, exporting watches to their main markets Singapore, Japan, Taiwan, and Hong Kong. This is its first entry into Indonesia, and they are confident of the move.

"Indonesia is one of the most exciting countries around to do business in, we see a great future here," he said.

Bertolucci then claimed that Indonesians are "able to recognize quality products. It's easy to explain who we are because all Indonesians have to do is touch the watches and they understand the work."

What Bertolucci fails to understand is the current rage among wealthy Indonesians for imported luxury goods. Bertolucci items may indeed be works of art, but to the nation's affluent elite, they are just another item to purchase with their gold card.