Fri, 02 Nov 2001

Food of the gods a divine dish good for both the body and soul

Maria Endah Hulupi, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

Culinary history records that the mushroom has been used as a cooking ingredient since the days of the Roman empire. At that time, the ancient delicacy was described as a pleasure for the palates of emperors and noble people.

Since then, the juicy and meaty flavor of the mushroom, once dubbed "the food of the gods" has delighted more and more people throughout the world from all walks of life.

Mushrooms can be divided into edible and non edible varieties.

While the former are known for their delicious flavors, the latter, which can look similar to the edible varieties, may be bad for your health. They can induce hallucinogenic effects and cause severe illness or death.

With the development of mycology (the study of fungi), many people are further exploring the properties of this sought after item not only for cooking but also for formulating medications.

Apart from their delicious flavor, mushrooms are also a good source of nutrition. They contain protein and vitamins C and D. They are also a good source of certain trace minerals, namely iron, copper and phosphor.

The executive chef at Il Mare Italian restaurant in the Hotel Mulia Senayan, Gabriele Noe, explained that there were at least 20 kinds of edible mushroom, including porcini, champignon, morel and trompette, which have long been popular cooking ingredients.

"In Italy, mushrooms are included in many recipes. I believe many chefs and people in general just add them when preparing various dishes," he said, during the hotel's mushroom and nut food festival, running from Oct. 23 to Nov. 3, 2001.

Mushrooms are added to soups, appetizers or main courses, or simply used as part of a garnish. They are served with pasta, risotto and polenta.

Gabriele said that, in general, mushrooms went well with all kinds of meat, and it was advisable to choose those that could be cooked with meat, rather than those that could be cooked with fish. "Mushrooms can better enhance the flavors of those particular meats."

Unlike here in Indonesia, where edible mushrooms are only available in supermarkets, in Italy mushroom lovers can pluck their fresh supplies straight from nature.

"Mushrooms absorb water and thrive in cold climates. They grow naturally in the wild and other public areas in various parts of Italy. People love to go there to collect fresh mushrooms for their lunch or for presents while walking in the morning," he said.

When hunting for the much loved items, he added, people were only allowed to gather them in limited amounts to ensure their habitat would not be disturbed.

"The activity is overseen by a kind of forest patrol. These officers are in charge of fining those who attempt to take a quantity exceeding the prescribed limit," he said, hinting that people could even go to jail for breaching the policy.

Gabriele further added that the best periods to collect mushrooms extended from the end of September to mid November and from February to March. "Winter is too cold and summer is too hot," he added.

Although people often cook their own mushroom dishes at home, many of them don't know how to prepare them properly.

Gabriele identified overcooking as a very common mistake, which makes them either too soft or too dry and certainly unappetizing.

"Mushrooms don't require a long cooking time, and it's better to maintain their juices and firm texture, while at the same time bringing out their best flavor," he explained.