Food-laden ceremonies attract tourists to Tabanan

Text and photos by Mulkan Salmona

TABANAN, Bali (JP): In this island of gods, it seems that not a day passes without religious ceremonies and dances. Bali is rich in arts and culture, and this has become the main tourist attraction.

One example is the rituals at a lavish dinner at Puri Anyar Kerambitan, a temple located in Tabanan district.

The temple, which is usually deserted, was lively that night. Dozens of bare-chested men loitered on the corner of the street, while several others placed gamelan instruments in front of the temple gate. Locals living in the neighborhood also started to arrive.

At about 7 p.m., a bus-load of tourists, mostly Japanese ladies, arrived. The bare-chested men immediately stirred and lit torches, immediately dissipating the darkness that had enveloped the night. People applauded and the atmosphere became more cheerful as the sound of the gamelan orchestra was heard. Dozens of musicians appeared and played okokan (large chimes strung together) and danced energetically. They were led by a man with a scary face with a whip in his hand.

They were replaced a few minutes later by a number of women carrying offerings -- a pile of decorated fruits -- on their heads and pendet dancers who swayed their bodies in front of the tourists. At the end of the dance, performed to honor the guests, petals were thrown into the air and the guests were led into the temple.

The owner of Puri Anyar Kerambitan, Oka Silagunadha, accompanied by a Hindu priest, welcomed the tourists, who were then blessed with holy water before being seated.

The menu for that night was grilled pork, served with a Balinese cuisine. Soft gamelan music was played for the guests, who were enjoying the night.

After dinner, the guests were led to the temple's front yard, where more performances awaited. Tektekan bamboo music was played, marking the beginning of the magic-laden Calon Arang dance drama. The drama is about a powerful Javanese princess who controls her spouse, a Balinese king, with black magic. It is believed that some people in Bali still have such magical powers.

The dramatic parts of the performance entailed tranced players frequently stabbing themselves with sharp objects, but none was hurt. Indeed, several dancers fell into a trance by means of incense, music, chants and prayers.

Astonished guests gave a lengthy applause at the end of the stunning show.

Oka said that each guest paid US$50 for the event, which was arranged for at least 15 people in one group.

According to Oka, the tourist sector has suffered ever since the mid-May riots. Most tourists come from Australia, Europe and the United States.

"I just hope there will be more tourists to come ... so the arts here can develop and, at the same time, the artists can earn a living. My wish is that such riots will not happen again, not ever," Oka said.