Food fit for a maharaja at the Regent

By Mehru Jaffer

JAKARTA (JP): For the first few minutes after meeting Harpal Singh Sokhi, 34, it seems as if the man has no heart but only a stomach. All he talks about is eating, from morning till night.

He tries to tempt with creamy curries scooped up with tenderly cooked roti or rice dishes from Rajasthan, one of India's most colorful provinces, and frothy drinks made from whipped yoghurt.

So it takes time to realize that the food being offered by the visiting chef de cuisine at the Regent, Mumbai is meant not to tickle the palate and satiate the stomach alone but is actually therapeutic. For apart from wanting to be a successful chef, Harpal also wants to remain a good person.

"As I serve people what they should be eating gives me the greatest pleasure in my life," says Harpal who will reign over the kitchens of the Regent Jakarta Hotel for 10 days, making believe all the while he is still back home, cooking for people who are familiar with the tastes and spices of Indian food.

Every Indian meal is expected to combine nutrition with satisfying the appetite. The ultimate objective of Harpal is to blend food with Ayurveda, the ancient remedy that uses herbs and other naturally grown ingredients to keep the human body healthy.

In the collective mind of the world, Indian meals conjure up an image of hot chilly sauces and meat dishes dripping in fat and spices. And to make matters worse, most Indonesian kitchens preparing Indian food here are in the habit of throwing a handful of palm sugar into everything that is cooked. The result is that it is difficult to find authentic Indian food in the city.

Harpal promises not only the real thing which will make the senses float into fantasy but also that which will sooth the soul.

The sheer variety of Indian cuisine is confusing to all those who are not familiar not only with the portions but also are clueless as to what should be eaten with what. This is where Jaswant Singh Bisht steps in to suggest the kind of combinations they should order from the rather intimidating list on the menu, according to their age, weight and profession.

For example, if a weight-conscious executive has to return to the office to meet a deadline, the maharaja-style chicken biryani would not be recommended as a main course for lunch.

It would be better to have it for dinner if eaten about 7 p.m. with a juicy lamb shank braised in a red chili sauce. An ideal lunch would include chicken and lentil soup, shredded radish, greens and garlic steeped in thick yoghurt with mint-flavored paratha or bread.

"For those interested in light meals there is nothing like a simple dish of black lentils and garlic naan (bread)," suggested Harpal.

Jaswant alternates this with his own favorite lentil, which is the yellow one. As starters, both recommend spicy lamb and chicken pieces baked in the tandoor (oven) in skewers with a glass of beer or a cool yoghurt drink.

The best way to order an Indian meal is to offer a dish to each guest and then to share it all with everyone present. Vegetarians have much to choose from: tomato or spinach soups; baked cauliflower and potatoes eaten with lentils; bread or plain rice with kulfi; or Indian ice cream, which tops the list of dessert favorites .

For all those without a care in the world, there is a large choice of deep fried meats and vegetables, and an endless row from the curry train at the daily buffet laid out at Season's Cafe.

For choosy and reclusive types, the Asiatique is the corner to go to where the la carte menu includes everything from fish to main dishes flavored in rainbow hues of herbs and spices while the Jazz Bar offers delectable samosas (deep fried pastry filled with spicy vegetables) as a non-stop snack for those engrossed in the jazz interpretations of vocalist Monica Crosby.

But the most delicious fare is to be found by the pool where the tandoori dishes served under the stars and the moon transport one back to the vast and mysterious deserts of Rajasthan.

Addicts can further whet their appetites by learning to cook the way Harpal himself does by joining his classes starting from April 17 through April 21 when he will demonstrate on the first day how to prepare appetizers.

For more information on the Rajasthan Food Festival telephone 2523456.