Enjoying the fun at Loy Kratong Festival

Jason Volker, Contributor, Bangkok

Have you ever been surrounded by so much fun that your grinning muscles get cramp?

I probably should have seen it coming, after all I was in a city named "Dawn of Happiness" in the "Land of Smiles" for a merrymaking spree called the "Loy Kratong Festival". But to actually be seized with delight from nonstop beaming! Now that's got to be a first. It all began the night before when....

An exotic lullaby wafts through the silhouetted ruins of Great Pagoda Temple in the Sukhothai Historical Park. The buoyant crowd settles as the 13th century kingdom of Sukhothai, an empire that extended from the far north of Laos to the southern tip of Malaysia, is about to come to life in a light-and-sound extravaganza.

Suddenly sparks fly from dueling swords as Siamese warriors drive away their Angkor overlords to establish the first independent Thai kingdom. Arts and religion flourish in this golden era under the reign of such bighearted monarchs as King Ramkhamheng the Great, a sagely leader equally adept commanding troops on the battlefield or discussing finer points of Buddhist philosophy with wizened monks.

His contented citizens express their bliss in romantic celebrations like Pitee Jong Priang, nowadays known as the Loy Kratong Festival.

The stage fills with a rousing display of ancient royalty, angelic dancers, musicians, artists and muscle-rippling swordsmen in traditional costume, set against the backdrop of a luminous 700-year-old palace aglow with fizzing fireworks. If only my high school history lessons were half this entertaining!

I rejoin the mirthful masses waddling along the main avenue and call into an information booth to check the schedule of events.

"If you're interested, the Narng Noppamart Beauty Contest is taking place right now," says a young man with a distant hint of longing in his eyes.

"Hmm, a beauty contest you say ... would you be kind enough to point me in the right direction?"

Though I arrive 10 minutes into the pageant, a few polite words and an expensive-looking camera around my neck have me being ushered to a prime position just off stage.

"I'll just take in the ambience here a bit, then I'll wander around to see what else is going on," I muse to myself as I load my third roll of film in quick succession.

The bevy of northern Thai maidens wearing permanent "happy faces" just a few feet from my lens is continuing a long tradition of Sukhothai stunners that began with the famous Miss Noppamart, by all reports a foxy figure synonymous with the Loy Kratong Festival.

Some 650 years ago Narng Noppamart, the king's premier concubine, fashioned lotus petals into a tiny float and placed lit candles and incense inside before launching it on the river as an offering to the Goddess of Waterways. King Li Thai was so wowed by this exquisite scene that the practice of loy (floating) lotus-shaped kratong (vessels) as thanksgiving to Nae Kong Ka for her liquid bounty became an annual celebration.

One hour later, still mysteriously riveted to my seat, I'm admiring 30 beauties sashaying across the stage in embroidered silk dresses. Two hours later, 10 remaining hopefuls are demurely explaining why they should be crowned Narng Noppamart. Three hours later and five finalists are left challenging for the title.

Four hours later in the wee hours of the morning, the judges are obviously having trouble deciding and I have to be up in a few hours for a sunrise ceremony. So on hearing the lucky winner will star in a parade the next day, I reluctantly resolve to bear the suspense and head back to my guest house for some shuteye.

Next morning as the sun is rising on the full moon day of the 12th lunar month, I'm privileged to be viewing a timeless tradition. Among the remnants of Silver Pond Temple on an island looped by lotuses, nine monks in tangerine tunics are welcoming the dawn with melodic Buddhist chants.

On completing their blessings, the holy men are presented with food offerings by the faithful before silently returning to their monastery in single-file sanctity.

And now for a mini miracle: By a wacky stroke of serendipity I stumble into one of my all-time favorite Thai comedians. (It's a tad tricky to fully convey the thrill of the occasion, but imagine chatting for 10 minutes with, let's say Jerry Seinfeld, and you're picking up the vibe.)

"Guys, this is Mr. Jason, he's a travel writer..." says Saynar Ling (Thai Jerry) to his fellow comedian buddies, "... unfortunately his magazine went bust years ago but he still insists on sending his stuff in! How's that for dedication!" And a few minutes later he has us all performing an impromptu shadow puppet show complete with jiggy dance steps (but minus the shadow puppets) to the amusement of our growing audience.

The rest of Loy Kratong Day is spent giddily joyriding on my rented moped, swallowing kamikaze bugs and visiting some of the 91 historical sites circling this World Heritage-listed city. Then as the blazing tropical sun begins to lose its bite, I putter back to carnival headquarters just in time for the Loy Kratong Parade.

A cavalcade of Asian flair wends through the park as vibrant oversized kratongs and marching drummer bands delight the partying crowd. And there, behind an entourage of frolicking musicians, poised atop a flower-framed palanquin supported by a team of brawny youths, laughing and waving to the star-struck spectators, a vision in gold and scarlet, is Sujira Arunphiphat, also known as Miss Thailand. Sigh.

Oh, before I forget, I also saw the Thai prime minister and some girls who won the Narng Noppamart Beauty Contest.

As the pearly moon lifts above the old city of Sukhothai, the festive atmosphere is a cross between a buzzing country fair and Christmas Day back home (there is even a catchy Loy Kratong carol playing over the PA system). Ambling among the attractions I try to take in the all round euphoria.

Candle-powered lanterns sail to the heavens as cultural performances charm revelers back on earth. Glowing children rush from whirly sideshow rides to the giant open-air movie screen showing the latest Thai blockbusters.

Teenage sweethearts make mutual wishes as they drift flickering floral floats on a silvery pond. Mums and dads bewitched by street theater players. Grandfolks rapt by the countless craft stalls.

And the food, oh the glorious food. A cavalry of vendors ready to whip up roadside banquets in a heartbeat. Rows of freshly skewered satays, aromatic coconut curries, stacks of famous Sukhothai sweets, deep-fried worms and grasshoppers (just checking if you're paying attention), a juicy array of chilling fruits, and trusty Thai herbal teas to aid the straining digestion.

Then a smidgen after midnight it happened. While gaping at blooms of iridescent fireworks popping above Sacred Pond Temple, I felt an unfamiliar twitch in the dimples. With the sky a palette of crackling color, having experienced enough hilarity in the past 24-hours to last a dozen lifetimes, my overworked smile muscles gave up and there I was -- frozen like a clown in suspended satisfaction.

Have you ever been surrounded by so much fun that your face can't handle it?

If you go...

When: The Loy Kratong Festival is celebrated annually according to the traditional Thai calendar on the full moon day of the 12th lunar month. This year's festival is from Nov. 11 to Nov. 19.

Where: The Sukhothai Historical Park is renowned as being the best spot in Thailand to celebrate this ancient festival. The park is located some 450 kilometers north of Bangkok. Admission to the central section costs 40 Baht (US$1). Or there is an economical 150 baht (US$3.50) ticket that allows entry to all the nearby sites, including the World Heritage-listed Si Satchanalai Historical Park.

Getting there: Thai Airways International (phone 21-230 2551, email sales@thaiairways.co.id, www.thaiairways.com) has regular return flights from Jakarta to Bangkok, where a one-hour connecting flight direct to Sukhothai can be made.

Lodging: If you're on a tight budget try one of the many new guesthouses only a few hundred yards from the park entrance. For a little more comfort try Pailyn Sukhothai Hotel, phone 665-561 3310 or fax 665-561 3317, where room rates start at 800 baht (US$18) per night.

Currency: One Thai baht is equal to Rp 210.

Reading: Lonely Planet Thailand makes an excellent travel companion.

Further information: Tourism Authority of Thailand, Singapore office (responsible for all Indonesian inquiries), c/o Royal Thai Embassy, 370 Orchard Rd, Singapore, 238870, phone 656-235 7901, fax 656-733 5653, email tatsin@mbox5.singnet.com.sg or visit www.tat.or.th