Empire Grille launches new and exotic menu

James Boyd, Contributor, Jakarta

A marvelous evening of fine wining and dining was recently had by an assorted crew of local movers and shakers, glitterati and conspicuously hungry hacks at the Empire Grille, Jakarta's only revolving restaurant located a heady 35 floors above the sparkling lights of Jl. Rasuna Said, South Jakarta.

Held to mark the introduction of the Empire's new menu, titled World Authentic Cuisine, the evening was enlivened by a fashion show featuring the creations of Riri Couture, Vincent Fac and Vick N'Van, and was initiated with liberal quantities of Cinzano Asti, which brought out the more garrulous side of some of the more taciturn hacks.

Preceded by the customary speeches extolling the virtues of all and sundry, the main business of the evening got off to a good start with the Rosemary Foei Gras with Dark Berries Butter Sauce. This was the perfect appetizer to tantalize the taste buds in anticipation of the treats to come, all created by the expert hands of Chef Usep Gumaati, a maestro with years of experience garnered in such establishments as the Kanuhara Sun & Sand Resort, the Maldives, the Regent Hotel, Jakarta, and the Sheraton Nusa Indah, Bali.

Accompanied by the warm embrace of a suave Fortant de France Muscadet Dry, the meal proceeded onto the soup course, Vaccari Corn and Chicken Soup with Tomato Grissini.

This turned out to be a smooth and creamy broth liberally sprinkled with minute morsels of tender chicken, delicious in your reviewer's humble opinion although pronounced a little bland by his somewhat uncharitable partner.

Following a refreshing Sorbet, the entree and piece de resistance, Thyme Moreton Bay Bug, Yabbies and Moroccan Marinated Tenderloin with Garlic Herb Potatoes, accompanied by a fine Berringer Stone Cellar Merlot, arrived to gasps of delight from many of the diners.

For those not familiar with the wonders of Australian cuisine, perhaps some explanation is in order here.

Moreton Bay Bugs are not, as one might tend to believe, in any way connected with the various types of fried cricket and other assorted creepy crawlies that are so popular in Thailand and various other Asian countries. Rather, this particular bug is a form of lobster found in northern parts of Australia.

Going by his official moniker of Thenus orientalis, your average bug is rather shovel-shaped, weighs up to 560 grams, and tends to lurk in the mud. But taken out of his murky home and after a while spent in the pot, said bug metamorphoses into one of the truly tastiest treats that the oceans have to offer.

Meanwhile, a yabbie (Cherax destructor) is a freshwater crayfish that ranges in weight from 50 grams (medium) up to 90 plus grams (extra large). Long prized by Australia's aboriginal peoples, both Moreton Bay Bugs and yabbies have achieved international fame of late in the capable hands of a new generation of world-renowned Aussie chefs.

In bringing these antipodean delights to Jakarta, both Chef Usep and the Empire Grille deserve a round of applause.

Tastefully arranged around a core of garlic herb potatoes, the bug, yabbie and tenderloin presented an eclectic visual kaleidoscope of colors, shapes and textures. With the meat virtually falling out of the bug's shovel-shaped shell and the yabbie simplicity itself to dismember, one need have no worries about having to undertake a major demolition job as is often the case with shellfish.

With its sweet, delicate taste and medium texture, it's easy to see why bugs have gained such a reputation among Australian epicures. As for the yabbie, to me it tasted most akin to a well- textured, delicious, oversized prawn. With such culinary raw materials as these, it's little wonder that Australia is known as the Lucky Country.

The main course turned out to be as memorable for its land- based treats as the denizens of water holes and muddy ocean beds. Bathed in a fruity, tangy sauce, the exquisitely textured, melt- in-the-mouth tenderloin was admirably complemented by delicately carved squares of garlic herb potatoes, with the whole ensemble of fruits of the sea and land representing a superb exemplar of the type of dishes that have made Australian cuisine so sought after in recent times.

The memorable evening was rounded off with dessert (Lemon Polenta Cake with vanilla bean ice cream) and coffee.

Given the quality of the dishes created by Chef Usep on the night and with the other exotic treats featured in its new menu, including Grilled Quail with morel cream and aragula blossom, Riesling Braised Rabbit and Pomegranate-glazed Lamb Chops with port wine natural sauce, there is little doubt that the Empire Grille is destined to retain its place as one of the prime venues for excellent dining in Jakarta, a Mecca for all serious epicures and those who appreciate the finer things in life.

Compliments to Chef Usep, and keep up the good work!

The Empire Grille; Menara Imperium, 35th floor; Jl. Rasuna Said, Kuningan; (for reservations, call 8353976)