Edinburgh, the most beautiful city in Britain

By Lela E. Madjiah

The Edinburgh International Festival celebrated its 50th anniversary last month. The festival has proven successful in bringing together not only the world's best in arts, but also the world's best art lovers, who come to enrich their souls with an assortment of foreign cultures. The Jakarta Post sent its reporter, Lela E. Madjiah, who spent five days in Edinburgh catching a glimpse of all the excitement. She also had time to explore a little bit of Edinburgh outside the festival. The following is her report.

EDINBURGH (JP): A terribly loud explosion sent me jumping out of my skin!

God, I hope this is not another bomb attack. After all, Edinburgh is part of Britain, which seems to be forever having bomb threats.

But, no, it is the signal gun on Mills Mount Battery at Edinburgh Castle which is fired everyday, except Sundays, at one o'clock.

The signal gun, first fired in June 1861 on the initiative of John Hewitt, an Edinburgh businessman, is one of the many attractions in this city, the capital of Scotland.

The signal gun, like many other things here, has a rich history. For the story of Edinburgh goes back many centuries. Interestingly, most local and foreign visitors come for a glimpse of Scottish history.

According to a 1993/1994 survey by the Edinburgh Tourist Board, 45 percent of visitors come for its history but it is its architecture that impresses them most (54 percent).

One way to get a quick grasp of the city is to get on a tour bus. This can be an illuminating experience, especially if you are lucky enough to have the witty, friendly and knowledgeable Judith Devereux as your guide on the Guide Friday tour, one of the tour bus companies operating in Edinburgh.

The tour starts at Waverly Station at the modern, underground Waverly shopping mall (no buildings are allowed on the right side of Princes Street, so the mall was built underground. Cleverly Scottish!) and passes 29 main sites, including the famous Princes Street Gardens with its fabulous gold Rose Fountain, the Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood Palace, the Queen's Edinburgh home, Robert Burn's Monument and many great statues of the city.

The Scots are very proud of Edinburgh Castle. Perched on an extinct volcano and the site of an Iron Age fort, the castle witnessed the birth of James IV of Scotland, the only son of Mary Queen of Scots, who later also became James I of England. The Scots are very proud of the fact that James I became king of England without a single shot being fire.

Visitors to Edinburgh cannot help but notice the great number of churches and pubs, some standing side by side or close by.

"There are so many churches and pubs in Edinburgh, but the churches are always empty. I don't know if there's any connection," said Devereux.

One of the city's great churches is St. Giles' Cathedral on High Street, which has been central to life in Edinburgh for nearly 900 years.

The sad thing is that many of the lovely, empty churches need repairing and the city simply does not have the funds for that.

In the heart of the city is the Old Town of Edinburgh which was for centuries at the center of Scottish history. The Old Town and the New Town of Edinburgh were declared a World Heritage site in 1995.

The main thoroughfare, the famous Royal Mile, takes visitors into Scottish history.

"Actually, the Royal Mile it is not exactly one mile but one mile and 200 yards long. You see, the Scots offer more value than anyone else," boasted Devereux, to everyone's amused laughter.

Shops selling Scottish tartan cloths, traditional Scottish food, cakes, its famous whiskey, glasswork, baskets and candles -- you name it, everything's there.

Don't miss the Museum of Childhood on 42 High Street. This much-loved museum provides a magical world of old books, dolls, historical toys, teddy bears, games, puzzles, models nd a host of other items to bring delight to children and nostalgia to adults.

In the olden days the Scots lived in small communities, far from each other, and had to be self-reliant. Because they had plenty of time at hand, they spent their leisure time making crafts. Scotland is therefore famous for its fine handicrafts, and many of them are found in Edinburgh.

Scots are also fond of tales, and one of the most famous in Edinburgh is about Bobby, a small terrier who was so grief- stricken when his master died that he refused to leave his grave. The townspeople, who had taken pity on him, brought him food everyday to make sure that he was well cared for. They did that for 14 years until Bobby died and was buried near his master's grave. Today, Bobby's grave and his statue, the smallest in the town, are among the much-visited sites in the Old Town.

But it would be a pity to not do what most people do when they are in Edinburgh: Explore the city on foot.

Everything here is within walking distance, although visitors must bear in mind the hilly contours of the city and the many steep steps that link one street to another. The Princes Street Gardens itself, for example, is three levels, thus providing a hiking experience in the heart of a cosmopolitan city.

Another walking expedition will take visitors to the Nelson Monument on Calton Hill, which has good views of the city, the Holyrood Palace and park and the Firth of Forth. On a sunny day, it is a good place to lie down on the grass and stare up at the blue sky or down at the city's pointed buildings, across the green hills or at the blue ocean.

Edinburgh, cited as the most beautiful city in Britain, is a city of all senses. Its festivals, over 14 a year including the Edinburgh International Festival, provide "nutrition" for the soul, its museums enrich one's knowledge, not only of history but also of mankind, while its natural beauty soothes the eye of the beholder.