Donna Karan hits the right note with simple design

By Kunang Helmi Picard

JAKARTA (JP): Every fashion designer has his or her own interpretation of the men and women of their time.

This individual interpretation is an ever-changing process which is subject to various influences, from cultural to financial. Despite the inevitable changes, designers maintain their individual labels which make them recognizable under any circumstances.

Donna Karan's recent trunk shows on June 2 at the Grand Hyatt Jakarta revealed the designer's interpretation of modern women and the consistency of her image, which is simple and sophisticated.

Five leggy Indonesian models wore selections from Karan's Spring Collection 1994, focusing on the body with natural silhouettes and light fabrics.

"I am designing for an international man and woman, a person who never knows where a day is going to take them," says Karan. "That's why New York is on the label. It sets the pace, the attitude."

Karan's modern woman is mobile and enjoys simple yet sophisticated shapes draped around a bodysuit. Karan's collection was based on bodysuits in silk and various stretch fabrics that guarantee a clinging fit, a mixture of 95 percent rayon viscose and five percent spandex, often with an added metallic sheen for shimmer effect.

True to Karan's principle of simplifying dressing, but at the same time adding comfort and luxury, the keynote is American sportswear with an edge, an added dimension of elegance, keeping silhouettes flexible and fabrics user-friendly with light wool- crepes, linen and silks. .

Natural energy inspired the colors with names like silver, sterling, petroleum, steel, crystal, moonstone and a wonderful deep indigo blue aptly called midnight. A fabulous outfit of a midnight blue jacket and long supple pareo skirt, occasionally revealing the left leg, offset by a moonstone bodysuit, drew enthusiastic applause from the small circle of well-heeled local women present.

Bare, fluid dresses

Also a hit were the soft, fluid sleeveless dresses in new pink with the continuation of the dress hanging free down one side like a shawl which could unravel the garment. These pale slips in gossamer fabrics continued in other colors and variations, only hinting delicately at the female form.

Pants were generally floppy and wide with the exception of an ensemble combining tones of moonstone, ivory and steel with a waistcoat and slim pants, the perfect city wear.

Long straight skirts had two long slits at the back, generally teamed with hip-length straight jackets, either simply held together by one button or variations on the Nehru look, and again often with slits at the back. Many skirts, short or long, were cleverly attached to the bodysuits guaranteeing perfect fits and maximum comfort. Others were held together by a large metal clasp or completed by snap and click belt, highlighting functionality.

Several variations on the backpack with multiple pockets or zippers emphasized the international mobility of Karan's fans, while two sophisticated versions of a small square, black bag with gilt chains offered more formal accessories to offset the evening clothes.

Costume jewelry was often oversized and dramatic like mineral- inspired or frosted lucite moondiscs and moonstones. One long leather chain was slung over one shoulder to end in a metallic disc on the opposite hip, and a gilt necklace was worn with its accompanying crystal dangling at the nape of the model's neck. Spring sunglasses were lightweight with small, round frames, while earrings were spare and luminous.

The all too brief show was concluded by five black evening gowns. First, model Wiwid appeared on the catwalk in a simple long balldress in crushed velvet, her long, black hair set off by a large crumpled black crushed velvet hat with black flowers. She was followed by Sanny wearing a long-sleeved black crepe dress with bare shoulders and Chaterine wearing a short dress with a metal tube encircling her waist.

Jeni Santoso, the marketing manager of Great River Industries which represents Donna Karan in Indonesia, was certainly relieved by the warm response this show drew from the audience: "We were quite sure that the success following our first show in Indonesia in October last year would continue, but we were of course not completely certain. Now we know that many Indonesian women do enjoy wearing Karan creations."