Dining like an Indian Raja at Shah Jahan

Zora Rahman, Jakarta, Contributor

Shah Jahan, or King of the World, was the title bestowed upon Prince Khurram when he ascended to the throne of the Indian empire in 1627. He is said to have been a brave and far-sighted leader and generous master who treated his people with justice and respect.

The name Shah Jahan has been immortalized by the Taj Mahal, one of the world's wonders, which is mausoleum for his beloved wife Mumtaz in Agra.

The Indian restaurant in Jakarta named after the king may not be as splendid as the Taj Mahal, but is still very sumptuous and respectable. Stepping out of the lift, one dives directly into a world of rose-colored curtains and big chandeliers, with a row of extremely attentive waiters.

The furniture suggests old Rajastani palaces known for their rich and colorful tradition, but mixed with modern elements like the background music: shrill songs from Bollywood films.

The ruler of this "empire" is a Sikh with an imposing build and neatly bound beard and turban, as if he jumped out of one of those films. Meet Harinder S. Khurana, the watchful, new manager.

Nobody will pass through without receiving a greeting and name card from him.

At the center of the large room is a fountain encircled by elephant statues, the tables are arranged to face the large windows, offering a great view of Jakarta's skyline. Two of those seating groups are made in the style of a Mughal lounge, although patrons are not required to sit on the floor as the chairs and table are sunken into the floor. For a comfortable dining experience the common chairs are definitely the better choice.

Without a glance at the menu, restaurant guests will be served an appetizer: papadam (paper-thin, crispy crackers) with three typical dips -- mint sauce, a sweet and a sour chutney. While the mint sauce leaves a very smooth and pleasant aftertaste, the chutneys do not leave you craving for more.

Heading for a typical Indian drink, sweet or salty lassi (buttermilk) will certainly be the most refreshing choice. The jal jeera (spicy lime juice with cumin and black salt) in this case is so salty that it would be a good idea to order water with it. And the tea is not Darjeeling or Assam, but the ordinary tea bag.

The food is far more enjoyable. This month's food promotion presents specialities of Rajasthan, one of the hottest Indian cuisines. It combines the tradition of a hot desert area with little access to fresh vegetables with the influences of Mughal and Persian cooking.

Try for example the gosht or murgh curry (mutton or chicken cooked with chili, onion, garlic, cumin, cloves, coriander and yogurt). The dried red chili makes it very spicy even for the Indonesian tongue. The very tender meat still has its own aroma in the thick gravy.

The same applies to the aloo masala (sauteed potatoes cooked with chili, onion, cumin, tomato, ginger and garam masala).

In the regular menu, you will find a wide selection of Indian dishes from all over the country: masala dosa from the South, variations of tandoori dishes from the North and many more.

For dessert, the best choice is most probably a sweet dish from the famous Bengali cuisine. In this case the rasmalai (fresh paneer (soft white cheese) balls in creamy sauce with cardamom and pistachio nuts) fits the bill: The soft, aromatic sweets simply melt in the mouth.

As is the case in a good Indian restaurant, the Shah Jahan serves its guests a mixture of different seeds and sugar crystals to freshen the mouth after the meal.

They are presented in a bronze carved box. One may pick and mix the seeds to one's liking. For some people this becomes an interesting experiment to experience the pure taste of anise or cardamom.

Another piece of good news: The prizes are definitely not as high as the atmosphere may suggest. Starters and soups are available for between Rp 15,000 and Rp 20,000. Vegetarian dishes start at Rp 25,000. Chicken costs around Rp 35,000, mutton gets up to Rp 55,000.

At the top end, fish costs between Rp 80,000 and Rp 90,000 a portion. Desserts start at Rp 20,000. Not yet included are rice or Indian flatbreads like chapatti or naan to go with the main dishes.

You can try a little bit of everything at the Sunday lunch buffet for only Rp 55,000 for a large choice of North and South Indian dishes. Shah Jahan Restaurant Sahid Jaya Hotel, 18th floor Jl. Jend. Sudirman No. 85 Jakarta Pusat Reservations: 021-5704444, ext. 1433

Lunch: 12 noon - 2:30 p.m. Dinner: 7 p.m. - 11 p.m. Sunday Lunch Buffet: 11 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.

Food Promotions: Rajastani Culinaire: July 1 - July 31, 2003 Mumbai Cuisine: Aug. 1 - Aug. 31, 2003