Developed to death

In 1992 the United Nations Development Program sponsored studies of tourism in Bali. The studies conducted by teams of international and local consultants found that hotel occupancy rates throughout the year averaged at around 50 percent. The studies also exploded some of the myths about the local benefits of tourism.

Sure, some of the exquisite paradises, like the Aman chain are generally full, but they are gems in a sea of dross. The economist in the teams with their eyes full of dollars and computer models tried to talk up tourism as economists do. Theirs is not the world of subtle reality, sacredness (unless it has a dollar value) and human choice.

In 1995 more hotel development is scarring the landscape of Bali. The development sheep are ensuring that what was once a divine landscape will soon become a tropical Torremolinos. If you doubt that simply take a look at the macabre Mata Hari Center and adjacent hotel complex in Kuta, the worst kind of commercial vulgarity.

So the traders ask: Kenapa orang Barat tidak mau ke sini sekarang? (Why aren't western tourists coming here now?). I could say that the number of (Western) tourists will continue to drop in direct relationship to the scale of ravaged landscape. Yes the "White Trash" will continue to haunt Kuta with their absurd green noses and tattoos and yes, herds of Japanese and Koreans will arrive by the increasing busload blinking into the harsh sun, but these tourists could be anywhere. They simply want cold beer, air conditioning, karaoke and beaches. Asian tourists more than anyone like the comfort of large hotels, ensuring that less money made from tourism in Bali goes to the people but disappears into the coffers of those outsiders who own the large fields. In the meantime the Balinese lose their land, their temples and become serfs to tourism.

And there is nub of the "phallusy" of development. More is not better, nor is it economically wise, nor does it necessarily benefit the people. In fact it can positively do harm. This is the male dominated edifice complex model of development we are seeing in Bali.

Many years ago, an author titled his book Developed to Death. This could appropriately be Bali's obituary. When the world first discovered Bali it stood alone as the ubiquitous island paradise. Now places like Mustique, the South Pacific and Mauritius call. They have preserved the landscape and have indulged their greed by focusing on exclusivity. Greed has turned Bali in a tourist K Mart.

MELODY KEMP

Jakarta