Developed to death

Developed to death

In 1992 the United Nations Development Program sponsored
studies of tourism in Bali. The studies conducted by teams of
international and local consultants found that hotel occupancy
rates throughout the year averaged at around 50 percent. The
studies also exploded some of the myths about the local benefits
of tourism.

Sure, some of the exquisite paradises, like the Aman chain are
generally full, but they are gems in a sea of dross. The
economist in the teams with their eyes full of dollars and
computer models tried to talk up tourism as economists do. Theirs
is not the world of subtle reality, sacredness (unless it has a
dollar value) and human choice.

In 1995 more hotel development is scarring the landscape of
Bali. The development sheep are ensuring that what was once a
divine landscape will soon become a tropical Torremolinos. If you
doubt that simply take a look at the macabre Mata Hari Center and
adjacent hotel complex in Kuta, the worst kind of commercial
vulgarity.

So the traders ask: Kenapa orang Barat tidak mau ke sini
sekarang? (Why aren't western tourists coming here now?). I could
say that the number of (Western) tourists will continue to drop
in direct relationship to the scale of ravaged landscape. Yes the
"White Trash" will continue to haunt Kuta with their absurd green
noses and tattoos and yes, herds of Japanese and Koreans will
arrive by the increasing busload blinking into the harsh sun, but
these tourists could be anywhere. They simply want cold beer, air
conditioning, karaoke and beaches. Asian tourists more than
anyone like the comfort of large hotels, ensuring that less money
made from tourism in Bali goes to the people but disappears into
the coffers of those outsiders who own the large fields. In the
meantime the Balinese lose their land, their temples and become
serfs to tourism.

And there is nub of the "phallusy" of development. More is not
better, nor is it economically wise, nor does it necessarily
benefit the people. In fact it can positively do harm. This is
the male dominated edifice complex model of development we are
seeing in Bali.

Many years ago, an author titled his book Developed to Death.
This could appropriately be Bali's obituary. When the world first
discovered Bali it stood alone as the ubiquitous island paradise.
Now places like Mustique, the South Pacific and Mauritius call.
They have preserved the landscape and have indulged their greed
by focusing on exclusivity. Greed has turned Bali in a tourist K
Mart.

MELODY KEMP

Jakarta