Designers take futuristic approach for 2000 fashion

By Agni Amorita

JAKARTA (JP): The Indonesian Fashion Designers Association (APPMI) held its annual Tendance Fashion show on Nov. 18 in the Jakarta Deutshe Bank's futuristic ballroom.

This venue was chosen because of the harmony between the theme of the fashion show -- a departure to the new millennium's new beginning -- and the room's interior, which is detailed with silvery metal and located on the 24th floor, very much giving it the appearance of a spaceship.

That is why APPMI chairwoman Poppy Dharsono greeted her guests -- including the German ambassador to Indonesia -- with a speech which was broadcast on a big-screen TV and acted like an airplane captain.

Wearing sunglasses and gloves, she said: "Thank you for flying APPMI's spaceship. I am sure you will see something great. Welcome aboard."

This futuristic approach also was taken by the 16 designers who showed their visions of fashion in 2000. Sharp bright colors, avant garde tailoring and asymmetric cuts were everywhere. Even for those known as ethnic designers, the new millennium mania was strong.

Naniek Rachmat, for example, kept her focus on her identity as a batik designer, but tweaked her designs into very naughty Chinese-inspired peacock batik in stretch materials.

"After almost three years of trial and error, I found the perfect formula for making batik in knitted and stretch fabrics," Naniek said after the show. "It seems like now I can fulfill my obsession to make teenagers proud to wear batik because my batik is very funky."

In provocative colors such as green and red, Naniek's batik was designed for the young and hip.

Among the collections there was a sense of renewed optimism for the new millennium. "We feel it when we create such happy and colorful collections," said senior APPMI designer Raizal Raiz, who displayed his metallic colored super-mini pants and skirts in deconstructed designs.

"We've said good bye to the dark and gloomy colors which have dominated our market since last year."

This warmth and excitement was not only seen in the fronts of each design, but their was also great enthusiasm displayed in the clothes' sides and backs.

A number of the designers placed surprises in the backs of their designs, including Suzanna Wanasuka, who placed "windows" in her lingerie-inspired collection. And Etty Bachetta was inspired by the backs of kimonos to insert very small transparent bags in the back of her big belts. These back bags gave Etty Bachetta's dresses a very naughty but desirable look.

The new millennium also provided some mathematical inspiration for the APPMI designers. Jeanny Johannes, who opened the show, used an arrow-shaped design as the soul of her collection.

Jeanny, who also introduced an under-the-armpit belt, gave her arrows a sophisticated look by using contrasting dark and light colors. Such asymmetric-shaped tailoring was also found in the collections of Ferry Sunarto, Dina Midiani and Taruna Kusmayadi.

Ferry Sunarto preferred white in his mostly off-the-shoulder tie-dyed vinyl dresses. While Dina Midiani mixed textures by employing various materials in a harmonious color gradation.

Taruna Kusmayadi, known as a designer for teens, used black in his midriff-baring collection, accessorized with pilot caps, boots and 12-centimeter high heels.

In the futuristic elements such as chrome (mostly found in Musa Widyatmodjo's collection and the silvery metallic dresses of Corrie Castubi and Dessy Munaf) the new millennium never seemed closer, and APPMI's aircraft is ready to fly off to a new identity.