Designers glitter at Pasaraya show amid hardship

Designers glitter at Pasaraya show amid hardship

By Agni Amorita

JAKARTA (JP): "A crisis may have hit us but our appearance
must remain stylish," fashion designer Ghea S Panggabean once
said.

Her statement was made the motto of The Look of Fashion 1999,
the annual fashion show held in early December at Pasaraya
Department Store in Blok M, South Jakarta.

Ghea, who, like other leading designers, kicked off her career
by running a counter at Pasaraya, was asked by her alma mater to
serve as a consultant to this year's event, which took place
between Dec. 2 and Dec. 8.

Her fellow consultants were Biyan Wanaatmadja and Chossy Latu.

"With our new concept, i.e. a new look to welcome the new
millennium, we would like to call on the community to do smart
shopping," said Ghea.

"This theme has been inspired by our gloomy economic
situation, a situation prompting us to adopt a different approach
to dressing. We are thus now conditioned to opt for long-lasting
and classic fashions," she said.

This new economy fashion concept is visible not only in Ghea's
creations, but also Robby Tumewu's and Danny Dahlan's latest
designs.

Another concept representing the viewpoint of a new world
community characterized by multiculturalism and borderlessness is
featured in the latest collection of Ghea S. Panggabean and Susan
Budiharjo.

Of some 40 trade marks of fashion products for ladies,
gentlemen, teenagers and children, two other prominent concepts
are the futuristic science-fiction style, as featured in the
works of Sebastian Gunawan or Denny Wirawan, and the style
relying on simplicity and femininity as manifested in the
collection of the spiritual camp represented by Itang Yunasz,
Didi Budihardjo and Danarhadi.

The Look of Fashion 1999 was a blend of the latest collections
predicted to be featured on the pret a porter stages in Paris,
London Fashion Week and the New York Pret as glimpsed by local
designers to welcome the new year.

As such, the aspect of a high wearability rate became the main
requirement. To this end, the designs were dominated by soft
colors and minimalist patterns plus a little lengthening of hems
from midi to maxi.

The fashion show was the 17th of its kind and held with some
pomposity, including the "import" of famous Singapore's
choreographer, Rizal Ahyar.

"This fashion show was intentionally made a little more warmly
festive because we will soon be having our end-of-the-year
holidays, Xmas, New Year, Ramadhan, Idul Fitri and the Chinese
Lunar New Year," said Usman Dja'far, president director of
ALatief Corp., the owner of Pasaraya and Seibu chain stores.

To welcoming this period of business harvest, the company has
intensified its promotions.

"Of course the ongoing crisis has brought about a decrease in
buying. Someone who used to buy three items of clothing will now
buy one piece. We have anticipated this trend by, for example,
introducing a wider range of choices for prospective buyers,"
Usman said.

He noted that some malls, previously Pasaraya's competitors,
had been burnt or were being avoided by shoppers as students'
demonstrations, for example, caused traffic congestion on the way
to these places.

"That's why we are optimistic that our target of 40% of the
market during this business harvest period can be reached. Unless
we reach this target, we will sustain big losses because of
inflation, which in 1998 has reached 70 percent. So, the target
of between 35 percent and 40 percent is actually a regression and
meaningless."

Last year the company, which belongs to former minister of
labor Abdul Latief, expanded Pasaraya Manggarai branch from
18,000 square meters to 33,000 sq m and the turnover has now
risen by 300 percent. And the expansion of the main Pasaraya
building in Blok M, will commence in 1999.

"The first to be built will be the parking building because
many visitors have complained about a lack of parking space in
Pasaraya Blok M, particularly at weekends," said Dja'far.

He will also set up 24 terrace cafes in the main Pasaraya yard
so that when the department store closes at 9 p.m. visitors who
wish to savor nocturnal air can do so and while away their time
at the cafes till midnight.

"Besides, we will also establish a high fashion counter on the
first floor of Pasaraya Blok M to introduce the collections of
noted Indonesian designers" Dja'far said,

At present Pasaraya Blok M has some 200 fashion counters. "Our
target is growth of 40 percent in 1999. This may not sound
rational considering our present economic condition. However, we
have our own motivation, especially considering that the Jakarta
community will still need all-new trends and fashions."