Designers glitter at Pasaraya show amid hardship
By Agni Amorita
JAKARTA (JP): "A crisis may have hit us but our appearance must remain stylish," fashion designer Ghea S Panggabean once said.
Her statement was made the motto of The Look of Fashion 1999, the annual fashion show held in early December at Pasaraya Department Store in Blok M, South Jakarta.
Ghea, who, like other leading designers, kicked off her career by running a counter at Pasaraya, was asked by her alma mater to serve as a consultant to this year's event, which took place between Dec. 2 and Dec. 8.
Her fellow consultants were Biyan Wanaatmadja and Chossy Latu.
"With our new concept, i.e. a new look to welcome the new millennium, we would like to call on the community to do smart shopping," said Ghea.
"This theme has been inspired by our gloomy economic situation, a situation prompting us to adopt a different approach to dressing. We are thus now conditioned to opt for long-lasting and classic fashions," she said.
This new economy fashion concept is visible not only in Ghea's creations, but also Robby Tumewu's and Danny Dahlan's latest designs.
Another concept representing the viewpoint of a new world community characterized by multiculturalism and borderlessness is featured in the latest collection of Ghea S. Panggabean and Susan Budiharjo.
Of some 40 trade marks of fashion products for ladies, gentlemen, teenagers and children, two other prominent concepts are the futuristic science-fiction style, as featured in the works of Sebastian Gunawan or Denny Wirawan, and the style relying on simplicity and femininity as manifested in the collection of the spiritual camp represented by Itang Yunasz, Didi Budihardjo and Danarhadi.
The Look of Fashion 1999 was a blend of the latest collections predicted to be featured on the pret a porter stages in Paris, London Fashion Week and the New York Pret as glimpsed by local designers to welcome the new year.
As such, the aspect of a high wearability rate became the main requirement. To this end, the designs were dominated by soft colors and minimalist patterns plus a little lengthening of hems from midi to maxi.
The fashion show was the 17th of its kind and held with some pomposity, including the "import" of famous Singapore's choreographer, Rizal Ahyar.
"This fashion show was intentionally made a little more warmly festive because we will soon be having our end-of-the-year holidays, Xmas, New Year, Ramadhan, Idul Fitri and the Chinese Lunar New Year," said Usman Dja'far, president director of ALatief Corp., the owner of Pasaraya and Seibu chain stores.
To welcoming this period of business harvest, the company has intensified its promotions.
"Of course the ongoing crisis has brought about a decrease in buying. Someone who used to buy three items of clothing will now buy one piece. We have anticipated this trend by, for example, introducing a wider range of choices for prospective buyers," Usman said.
He noted that some malls, previously Pasaraya's competitors, had been burnt or were being avoided by shoppers as students' demonstrations, for example, caused traffic congestion on the way to these places.
"That's why we are optimistic that our target of 40% of the market during this business harvest period can be reached. Unless we reach this target, we will sustain big losses because of inflation, which in 1998 has reached 70 percent. So, the target of between 35 percent and 40 percent is actually a regression and meaningless."
Last year the company, which belongs to former minister of labor Abdul Latief, expanded Pasaraya Manggarai branch from 18,000 square meters to 33,000 sq m and the turnover has now risen by 300 percent. And the expansion of the main Pasaraya building in Blok M, will commence in 1999.
"The first to be built will be the parking building because many visitors have complained about a lack of parking space in Pasaraya Blok M, particularly at weekends," said Dja'far.
He will also set up 24 terrace cafes in the main Pasaraya yard so that when the department store closes at 9 p.m. visitors who wish to savor nocturnal air can do so and while away their time at the cafes till midnight.
"Besides, we will also establish a high fashion counter on the first floor of Pasaraya Blok M to introduce the collections of noted Indonesian designers" Dja'far said,
At present Pasaraya Blok M has some 200 fashion counters. "Our target is growth of 40 percent in 1999. This may not sound rational considering our present economic condition. However, we have our own motivation, especially considering that the Jakarta community will still need all-new trends and fashions."