Designer Yunita Harun breaks out from the pack

Muara Bagdja, Contributor, Jakarta

Amid the numerous fashion shows during November, young designer Yunita Harun tried to draw the attention of fashion lovers in Jakarta by displaying her debut collection at Kertanegara House in South Jakarta.

The 25-year-old designer, who graduated from KVB Institute of Technology and the University of New South Wales, Sydney, worked with well-known Australian designer Collete Dinigan before returning to her homeland.

Yunita is yet another young designer trying to enter the Indonesian clothing market. A lot of young people have tried to become designers by producing shirts, selling their products to boutiques or receiving orders at home. If they are lucky, they can finally gain fame and a market.

Still, many realize that the public's purchasing power for luxury goods is down due to the country's economic woes, and their customer base is the same women who are regulars at fashion shows.

Yunita believes she has what it takes despite the obstacles.

"I have courage and self-confidence. It is understandable that some people would be interested in my collection and others not. What is important to me is that I have introduced my works," she said a day after her fashion show.

Her collection has noticeable and consistent characteristics.

"My designs are not glamorous. I concentrate on the cut to make the garments look more interesting," she said. The core of her collection consists of asymmetric clothing, drapery and light, flapper-style clothing.

A quadrangle blouse like baju bodo (woman's sleeveless tunic from South Sulawesi), for instance, is made asymmetric. There is 1920s flapper-style attire with frayed cuffs like handkerchiefs. She also introduces a halter with drapery longer than the torso in the front.

Several blouses are combined with lace trousers that open in the lower leg, revealing the wearers' calves. Using the same concept, she also designs men's clothing, like shirts with Sabrina collars and drapery in the front.

"Usually I prepare the pattern first and then develop it. I want to be more practical. I use rectangular or triangular material to make dresses; that is my concept" she explained.

"For that purpose, we attach the fabric to a mannequin first and sew various parts of the materials, then we design the sewing pattern. The result is a pattern rich in drapery and pleats."

Yunita's collection is pleasant and relaxed looking, in line with the latest fashions. She creates a romantic image by choosing satin and chiffon as materials. "Perhaps I'm falling in love as I'm interested in producing romantic garments," she said.

The uniqueness of her designs will stand out better if her ready-to-wear collection is shown with dynamic choreography in more open settings, and not in closed spaces or rooms with big sofas, crystal lamps and dim lighting, as is the case at Kertanegara, especially as Yunita's collection is more contemporary.

More importantly, Yunita has been able to create a remarkable and conspicuous brand image by introducing asymmetric drapery in feminine and sexy attire for upper middle and modern consumers. She shows she has the potential to become part of a new generation of Indonesian designers.