Designer Eddy's new collection is all heart

It takes a deep love of whatever you do to produce something of excellence. Eddy Betty proved that with his latest collection, shown at Hotel Mulia Senayan in Central Jakarta late last month.

Called "In the Name of Love", it was a spellbinding parade of richly detailed and varied gowns in sophisticated cuts.

"Obviously, his creativity is boundless," said former model Okky Asokawati at the show, held in conjunction with the anniversary of Bazaar and Kosmopolitan magazines, with proceeds going to a foundation for drug abusers.

"He has designed the gowns with all his heart, not in the least caring whether there would be a buyer. He is really after great beauty in his design."

An energetic Latin flair dominated the 88 outfits, starting with sexy corsets and frilly accessories like a flamenco dancer would wear. There were short skirts with long trains -- something from the wardrobe of the Moulin Rouge dancer, perhaps -- and ones giving the impression of a gypsy queen, with ruffled skirts and cape-like blouses forming an attractive and fresh silhouette.

The Latin spirit -- at once dynamic, sexy and glamorous -- was played to the hilt as coquettish models sashayed down the zigzag catwalk to the pounding beat of house music. It began with the appearance of Izabel Yahya, her beautiful figure shown off in a bright red corset, and closed with actress Sophia Latjuba in a white wedding gown, with every creation in between notable in its own right.

"People now need love, as war and violence are everywhere on earth. When you are in love, surprising ideas can emerge at any moment," Eddy said.

He expressed his love in four stages on the night.

The first showed his love for rock music chic with maroon- colored gowns, including one consisting of a red corset and matching skirt rich in a combination of frills and pleats. In another gown, a ribbon was wound round the torso, giving the effect of wildness while maintaining the element of beauty with a multilayered chiffon skirt.

The second stage was a testament to his love for his homeland, highlighting the traditional kebaya blouse, for which he is noted.

He introduced a long lace kebaya with a sewn-in corset. It was a richer version of the blouse, either shown with vertical pleats on the bust or accentuated with frills and tassels around the shoulder of a sheer skin-colored garment.

The third stage was devoted to his declared love for peace, as reflected in dramatic-looking gowns in black. Corsets remained prominent, but the design were enriched with a variety of elements. One of his designs, for example, was a frilly ballgown, and another featured a skirt with the drapery falling below the hip for a cheeky peekaboo look.

The dramatic fringe on another skirt attracted attention.

"This skirt is made of satin ribbons that I cut and put together piece by piece. For this skirt, I needed 2,500 meters of ribbons," he said.

The show ended with a reflection of his love for luxury as the forbidding color of black gave way to glittering gold.

It was Eddy's second show, since his debut made three years ago upon his return from Paris where he studied at the prestigious Chambre Syndical de la Couture.

Apart from the kebaya, he has always shown a penchant for the corset, once condemned as a symbol of clothing restrictions on women but now celebrated for accentuating female curves.

"I simply want to respond to the wishes of modern women that have come to me as my clients. They want me to design for them dresses that make their breasts look bigger and their waist smaller," he said.

"Even flat-breasted women want that big bosom look -- it makes them feel confident."

His new corset is transparent, light, comfortable and foldable. He came upon the material by chance, after visiting a bramaker in Jakarta.

"The elastic material is not as strong as the cloth corset, however, and it initially didn't give a slimmer look at the waist because it is figure-hugging. Eventually, I found a way to ensure the waist looks slimmer.

"Well, I wound a ribbon round the waist, something we call gross grain," he said, referring to the finely ribbed material which is sturdier than satin and does not bunch up.

A perfect example of his love of attention to women, in all shapes and sizes, was shown with singer Angus, who sang a set of songs at the end of the show. She bemoaned her poor body shape compared to the models who preceded her, but she looked slim and pretty in a transparent black corset and black chiffon skirt.

Eddy Betty had done it again in making women look their best.

-- Muara Bagdja