Designer Adjie Notonegoro sticks to beautiful basics

Designer Adjie Notonegoro sticks to beautiful basics

Text and photos by Asniar Sahab

JAKARTA (JP): The kebaya, a traditional long-sleeved Javanese
blouse which symbolizes Indonesian woman's dress, has risen to
the top of the fashion world in the hands of designers like Adjie
Notonegoro.

Adjie began his fashion business by designing and producing
batik garments and kebaya from velvet or brocade in his parents'
house in Kebayoran Baru, South Jakarta, in 1982, after studying
fashion in Paris.

Adjie has always included kebaya in his haute couture
collections because the traditional blouse, in his view, reflects
the beauty of Indonesian women. As new designers emerged in the
country, Adjie continued his efforts to introduce the kebaya to
the fashion world.

However, they failed to attract much attention, despite his
experimentation with velvet and brocade. Ready-to-wear modern
attire and haute couture dominated the fashion industry, leaving
little room for traditional clothes.

Adjie was much influenced by this situation and though he
never abandoned the kebaya, he had to admit that he was unable to
make the garment a mainstay of the fashion world. He realized
that younger people were just not interested in wearing the
traditional blouse.

But as his star rose in the fashion industry, Adjie attempted
to promote the kebaya by modifying it, such as taking the detail
of the collar and developing it in preparing haute couture
designs, thus making use of the effect of the kebaya in his
designs.

It was Edward Hutabarat who pioneered an evolution of the
kebaya, setting this traditional blouse an exclusive and trendy
garment. The market followed Edward's lead, bringing the kebaya
to a new level of popularity among the fashion conscious. Adjie
acknowledges the remarkable achievement of his fellow designer.

Edward's success encouraged Adjie to return his concentration
to the kebaya, and today his traditional blouses are much in
demand among customers.

"I want them to wear my kebaya with a modern, graceful and
luxurious look. I don't recommend they wear a complete kebaya
outfit. My kebaya can be combined with trousers as well as long
or short skirts. Wearing shawls or stoles is not essential, but
it is no problem if wearing these accessories makes my customers
feel more self-confident," Adjie said when celebrating his 40th
birthday last July 18.

Today, Adjie is concentrating his collections on evening gowns
but still gives a high priority to the kebaya since the majority
of his customers are fond of wearing modern versions of the
traditional blouse.

When making his kebaya, Adjie sews on imported beads that are
the same color as the material of the blouse, distinguishing his
creations from those of other designers.

The details on the sleeves of his blouses are sewed by hand.
"The shoulders of Indonesian people very much vary in size and
shape, so the sleeve must be specially finished to fit the
wearers. I always try to ensure that my kebaya fit my customers
so they are comfortable while sitting and do not look awkward. In
brief, my kebaya must have a pleasant look," he said.

Looking at the current popularity of the kebaya, Adjie feels a
sense of pride, particularly in the fact that the traditional
blouse is not just worn at formal parties and celebrations.

Today's kebaya are modern in design, following the latest
trends in materials and colors. This has allowed the kebaya to
win a place in the hearts of younger women, who are wearing the
traditional blouse as evening wear.

Adjie said the average price of his blouses was about Rp 7.5
million each.

The designer has also taken pains to promote the kebaya
internationally. When Garuda Airlines opened a route to Japan not
long ago, Adjie had the opportunity to hold a show in Tokyo.

According to the designer, the show received a tremendous
response from the Japanese people, and most of his kebaya and
batik collections were sold out.

Adjie is a consistent haute couture designer who remains loyal
to the kebaya. It is easy to imagine that he will continue to
design kebaya throughout his career. It is his commitment to
himself and the fashion world.