Designer Adjie Notonegoro sticks to beautiful basics

Text and photos by Asniar Sahab

JAKARTA (JP): The kebaya, a traditional long-sleeved Javanese blouse which symbolizes Indonesian woman's dress, has risen to the top of the fashion world in the hands of designers like Adjie Notonegoro.

Adjie began his fashion business by designing and producing batik garments and kebaya from velvet or brocade in his parents' house in Kebayoran Baru, South Jakarta, in 1982, after studying fashion in Paris.

Adjie has always included kebaya in his haute couture collections because the traditional blouse, in his view, reflects the beauty of Indonesian women. As new designers emerged in the country, Adjie continued his efforts to introduce the kebaya to the fashion world.

However, they failed to attract much attention, despite his experimentation with velvet and brocade. Ready-to-wear modern attire and haute couture dominated the fashion industry, leaving little room for traditional clothes.

Adjie was much influenced by this situation and though he never abandoned the kebaya, he had to admit that he was unable to make the garment a mainstay of the fashion world. He realized that younger people were just not interested in wearing the traditional blouse.

But as his star rose in the fashion industry, Adjie attempted to promote the kebaya by modifying it, such as taking the detail of the collar and developing it in preparing haute couture designs, thus making use of the effect of the kebaya in his designs.

It was Edward Hutabarat who pioneered an evolution of the kebaya, setting this traditional blouse an exclusive and trendy garment. The market followed Edward's lead, bringing the kebaya to a new level of popularity among the fashion conscious. Adjie acknowledges the remarkable achievement of his fellow designer.

Edward's success encouraged Adjie to return his concentration to the kebaya, and today his traditional blouses are much in demand among customers.

"I want them to wear my kebaya with a modern, graceful and luxurious look. I don't recommend they wear a complete kebaya outfit. My kebaya can be combined with trousers as well as long or short skirts. Wearing shawls or stoles is not essential, but it is no problem if wearing these accessories makes my customers feel more self-confident," Adjie said when celebrating his 40th birthday last July 18.

Today, Adjie is concentrating his collections on evening gowns but still gives a high priority to the kebaya since the majority of his customers are fond of wearing modern versions of the traditional blouse.

When making his kebaya, Adjie sews on imported beads that are the same color as the material of the blouse, distinguishing his creations from those of other designers.

The details on the sleeves of his blouses are sewed by hand. "The shoulders of Indonesian people very much vary in size and shape, so the sleeve must be specially finished to fit the wearers. I always try to ensure that my kebaya fit my customers so they are comfortable while sitting and do not look awkward. In brief, my kebaya must have a pleasant look," he said.

Looking at the current popularity of the kebaya, Adjie feels a sense of pride, particularly in the fact that the traditional blouse is not just worn at formal parties and celebrations.

Today's kebaya are modern in design, following the latest trends in materials and colors. This has allowed the kebaya to win a place in the hearts of younger women, who are wearing the traditional blouse as evening wear.

Adjie said the average price of his blouses was about Rp 7.5 million each.

The designer has also taken pains to promote the kebaya internationally. When Garuda Airlines opened a route to Japan not long ago, Adjie had the opportunity to hold a show in Tokyo.

According to the designer, the show received a tremendous response from the Japanese people, and most of his kebaya and batik collections were sold out.

Adjie is a consistent haute couture designer who remains loyal to the kebaya. It is easy to imagine that he will continue to design kebaya throughout his career. It is his commitment to himself and the fashion world.