Design association puts its best fashion forward

Muara Bagdja, Contributor, Jakarta

It has become a perennial date on the local fashion calendar over the past decade, when the Indonesian Association of Fashion Designers and Businesspeople (APPMI) highlights its take on the latest trends.

This year's joint show in late September was the forum for the association's members to unfurl their best ever creations.

Even without the participation of Dina Midiani and Denny Kho, who could always be relied on to show innovative creations, 11 designers produced fashions that were one step ahead of the rest, reflecting careful planning and astute selection.

Several designers were not merely concerned with fashion's esthetics, but conveyed a strong social message about the conditions around them.

Held on the general theme of Tropical Harmony, the event was meant to set the course for Indonesian fashion in 2004. On the catwalk, the theme translated into designs that took much from Asian culture.

It was a good choice. First, APPMI designers are renowned for skillfully incorporating ethnic elements into their designs, and it was now time for them to take them to the next level.

Second, amid the influx of global fashion styles, it was an opportunity for designers to get back to basics of their own, home-grown strengths.

Instead of becoming followers, it was time to take the lead.

"We cannot ape Hong Kong, which is industry-oriented. We don't have the network. Still, we have the elements of handicrafts and culture. Of course, we must give prominence to these two," said designer Musa Widiatmodjo on a separate occasion.

Drawing inspiration from the Orient is nothing new, but designers gave it their own very individual and contemporary interpretations.

Suzana Wanasuka, for example, adapted the cheongsam, coming up with a gown and leather jacket adorned with hand-painted motifs of Chinese flowers. It was chic, fashionable and boasted neat finishing on leather, a difficult material to work with.

The Japanese kimono inspired the works of two designers. Sofie transferred the large kimono flower motif onto her design of a richly colored blouse and pants with clashing motifs in a street fashion style.

Taruna K. Kusmayadi made his kimono a combination of funky and punk styles, complete with wedge shoes plus socks and the hairpin of a kabuki dancer. It looked extreme, but it was his message -- the freedom for the wearer to adapt fashion according to her tastes and comfort -- that really mattered.

Designer Affif Syakur tapped into our own heritage for his own cultural experiment. Boldly, he turned woven batik cloth into a tank top and a sarong skirt, with a handkerchief-shaped trim.

Batik also drew Julianto Panggabean, who transformed the cloth into ribbons arranged with flowing ends on softly rustling pastel-colored chiffon gowns.

Under the overriding theme of adaptation, Musa took traditional Indonesian items of clothing, like the breastcloth and women's tunic-style dress, and put them in forest shades of menthol green, avocado and bronze on a blend of chiffon and velvet.

Two new members of the association made auspicious debuts. Abineri Ang featured various kinds of asymmetrical halter tops and light broad skirts, already showing fine taste and technique in producing quality ready-to-wear clothes.

Rudy Chandra, noted for his evening dresses, featured blouses and lace gowns with playful trimming in a pink and black combination.

The show closed with Putu Aliki's designs under the theme "Save Me", a collection of military-style designs and punkish gowns in a combination of black fabrics of different textures.

The models moved down the catwalk warily, as if overwhelmed by fear. Opening with a green dress -- representing a soldier's fatigues -- the show proceeded with somber all-black gowns. Finally, there was a white wedding dress, seemingly stained with blood, with the model approaching the audience to hand out white roses.

It was a fittingly thought-provoking moment to what had been an excellent event. Not only did the audience get to witness the upcoming trend of a return to the country's diverse traditional offerings, but there was also an important message about the society and world we live in to take home with them.