Derawan Island: Where divers' dreams come alive

Text and photos by P.J. Leo

DERAWAN ISLAND, East Kalimantan (JP): Waves slowly ripple on to a white sandy beach. Schools of small fishes in brilliant colors are clearly visible gliding to their own tune, while occasionally green turtles (chelonia mydas) leisurely break the surface, adding to the attractions of the underwater ecotourism around Derawan Island.

Measuring roughly 35 hectares and with a population of only around 1,250 people, Derawan Island is one of a group of islets located to the east of Borneo.

Its neighbors include Sangalaki, Kakaban, Maratua, Sasama, Sambit, Mataha, Balikukup and Bilang-bilangan. Out of these, only Derawan, Maratua and Balikukup are populated. The others are used by fishermen as transit sites, or are occasionally visited by local wardens assigned to watch over turtles and their eggs.

Derawan, Sangalaki, Kakaban and Maratua are highly attractive to tourists, particularly those from abroad, who are on the lookout for a slice of underwater tourism.

Derawan Dive Resort, with its motto "Where diver's dreams come alive", provides services to tourists wishing to tour Derawan Island and its surrounds.

"Derawan Dive Resort employs some 70 people and is managed by PT Bhumi Manimbora Interbuana in cooperation with the East Kalimantan tourism board. The resort was built in stages in late 1992 using traditional Kalimantan architectural styles," said marketing manager Senoadji.

"Unlike Kalimantan, which is rich in agricultural produce, Derawan and the other small islands around it can only sell underwater ecotourism," he added.

The sea around Derawan is calm and is therefore good for diving, especially for novices.

"Believe it or not, the underwater gardens around Derawan are astonishingly beautiful. Once you dive you will have great admiration for underwater beauty," he said.

A couple of Japanese tourists agreed:

"It is a huge natural aquarium with colorful small fishes of all sorts of shapes. You will also see other tiny marine creatures. In brief, Derawan is a haven for marine creatures.

"The originality of the island must be maintained. We and other tourists will certainly return to this place many times over," they said, smiling.

If you have no diving experience Derawan Dive Resort will provide you with snorkeling gear.

"Green turtles can also be seen when they lay eggs. Every night they arrive at the beach to lay their eggs. Witnessing this is an unforgettable experience, and a nighttime tourist attraction as well. Apart from this, visitors can also walk around the local villages and see close up the people at work," said Seno.

"Tourists can also dive around Sangalaki, Kakaban and Maratua islands but it will take them a while to get there on a speedboat. Derawan to Sangalaki is a 40 minute journey, Derawan to Kakaban 60 minutes while Derawan to Maratua 90 minutes," he added.

To maintain the pristine environment of Derawan Island, Derawan Diver Resort has asked local people, most of whom make their living through fishing, to grow seaweed. So far the project has been successful.

"We wanted to give the fishermen extra employment opportunities, particularly those who fish using explosives," said Seno, adding that fishing with bombs would destroy the underwater ecosystem.

So how do you get to Derawan? Arriving in Balikpapan from Jakarta, Surabaya or Bali, a Cassa 24-seater plane will take you to Tanjung Redep, the capital of Berau regency some 700 km away from Balikpapan. The air fare is Rp 500,000 and you can take up to 10kg of baggage.

Continue your journey by speedboat for about 2 hours, the time it takes to cover because the 70-km hop between Tanjung Redep and Derawan. A speedboat can be chartered for Rp 800,000 for this trip. Ask around, many people in Tanjung Redep own speedboats.

A cottage in Derawan Dive Resort costs Rp 262,500 (approximately US$28.5) a night. There are two helipads. One is in a field close to the village and the other, built when former president Soeharto and a number of high-ranking state officials visited this island in mid-1997, is slap on the beach.

First, however, contact Derawan Dive Resort at (62) (0542) 420258, 35997 so that upon your arrival at Balikpapan you can find out whether you can directly proceed to Derawan via Tanjung Redep or whether you must first spend the night in Balikpapan.