Derawan Island: Where divers' dreams come alive

Derawan Island: Where divers' dreams come alive

Text and photos by P.J. Leo

DERAWAN ISLAND, East Kalimantan (JP): Waves slowly ripple on
to a white sandy beach. Schools of small fishes in brilliant
colors are clearly visible gliding to their own tune, while
occasionally green turtles (chelonia mydas) leisurely break the
surface, adding to the attractions of the underwater ecotourism
around Derawan Island.

Measuring roughly 35 hectares and with a population of only
around 1,250 people, Derawan Island is one of a group of islets
located to the east of Borneo.

Its neighbors include Sangalaki, Kakaban, Maratua, Sasama,
Sambit, Mataha, Balikukup and Bilang-bilangan. Out of these, only
Derawan, Maratua and Balikukup are populated. The others are used
by fishermen as transit sites, or are occasionally visited by
local wardens assigned to watch over turtles and their eggs.

Derawan, Sangalaki, Kakaban and Maratua are highly attractive
to tourists, particularly those from abroad, who are on the
lookout for a slice of underwater tourism.

Derawan Dive Resort, with its motto "Where diver's dreams
come alive", provides services to tourists wishing to tour
Derawan Island and its surrounds.

"Derawan Dive Resort employs some 70 people and is managed by
PT Bhumi Manimbora Interbuana in cooperation with the East
Kalimantan tourism board. The resort was built in stages in late
1992 using traditional Kalimantan architectural styles," said
marketing manager Senoadji.

"Unlike Kalimantan, which is rich in agricultural produce,
Derawan and the other small islands around it can only sell
underwater ecotourism," he added.

The sea around Derawan is calm and is therefore good for
diving, especially for novices.

"Believe it or not, the underwater gardens around Derawan are
astonishingly beautiful. Once you dive you will have great
admiration for underwater beauty," he said.

A couple of Japanese tourists agreed:

"It is a huge natural aquarium with colorful small fishes of
all sorts of shapes. You will also see other tiny marine
creatures. In brief, Derawan is a haven for marine creatures.

"The originality of the island must be maintained. We and
other tourists will certainly return to this place many times
over," they said, smiling.

If you have no diving experience Derawan Dive Resort will
provide you with snorkeling gear.

"Green turtles can also be seen when they lay eggs. Every
night they arrive at the beach to lay their eggs. Witnessing this
is an unforgettable experience, and a nighttime tourist
attraction as well. Apart from this, visitors can also walk
around the local villages and see close up the people at work,"
said Seno.

"Tourists can also dive around Sangalaki, Kakaban and Maratua
islands but it will take them a while to get there on a
speedboat. Derawan to Sangalaki is a 40 minute journey, Derawan
to Kakaban 60 minutes while Derawan to Maratua 90 minutes," he
added.

To maintain the pristine environment of Derawan Island,
Derawan Diver Resort has asked local people, most of whom make
their living through fishing, to grow seaweed. So far the project
has been successful.

"We wanted to give the fishermen extra employment
opportunities, particularly those who fish using explosives,"
said Seno, adding that fishing with bombs would destroy the
underwater ecosystem.

So how do you get to Derawan? Arriving in Balikpapan from
Jakarta, Surabaya or Bali, a Cassa 24-seater plane will take you
to Tanjung Redep, the capital of Berau regency some 700 km away
from Balikpapan. The air fare is Rp 500,000 and you can take up
to 10kg of baggage.

Continue your journey by speedboat for about 2 hours, the time
it takes to cover because the 70-km hop between Tanjung Redep and
Derawan. A speedboat can be chartered for Rp 800,000 for this
trip. Ask around, many people in Tanjung Redep own speedboats.

A cottage in Derawan Dive Resort costs Rp 262,500
(approximately US$28.5) a night. There are two helipads. One is
in a field close to the village and the other, built when former
president Soeharto and a number of high-ranking state officials
visited this island in mid-1997, is slap on the beach.

First, however, contact Derawan Dive Resort at (62) (0542)
420258, 35997 so that upon your arrival at Balikpapan you can
find out whether you can directly proceed to Derawan via Tanjung
Redep or whether you must first spend the night in Balikpapan.