Cultural activists revive Javanese ancient spirit

By M. Achadi

YOGYAKARTA (JP): On top of Bukit Seribu, about three kilometers south of the famed Prambanan Temple, lies a unique historical site -- the Boko Palace complex. Relics within the complex include temples, gates, forts and heaps of rocks.

Situated next to Sambirejo village, the complex, which is also called Ratu Boko palace, was a landmark in Javanese civilization which was built several centuries ago.

The complex has a lot of mysteries yet to be brought to light: when and by whom it was built. Only one thing is known for sure -- it is older than Prambanan and Borobudur temples.

But for the Javanese, Boko Temple is more than just a controversy on who founded it and when. The complex shows the sophistication of Javanese civilization as evident in the subsequent discovery of other major temples like Prambanan, Kalasan and several minor ones around Prambanan.

In March, Yogyakarta cultural activists initiated an event they called "Boko Palace Cultural Camping". The event will last until August and aims at exploring the spiritual values of the complex.

"We mean to bridge the gap between the past and future with the spiritual value of historical sites," says Suryanto Sastroatmodjo, one of those who initiated the cultural event. "We chose Boko as the first place because it is the most mysterious of all."

Suryanto said the event was intended to rediscover the "ancient spirit" to help find an orientation for cultural development in the future.

The cultural camping program consists of discussions on Javanese spirituality, wayang (shadow puppet) shows, dances, poetry reading and exhibitions of paintings and installation works. A wayang show by famous puppet master Manteb Sudarsono will top off the event in August.

The exhibition involves students of Yogyakarta's Indonesian Arts Institute (ISI) and artists from Yogyakarta, Surakarta and East Java. Painters H. Widayat and Kartika Affandi auctioned off their works to finance the event.

Local residents are taking part in the program by performing folk dances like Jatilan Irama Turangga, Topeng Hitam, Kubro, Sorengan and Srandul Bokoharjo.

The cultural camping program also serves as criticism of archeological activities which almost always ignore local sociocultural conditions.

"Archeologists are the long hand of the government so it is only natural that they think more about the economy and tourism than of local people's interests," Suryanto says.

"It often happens that government projects spark conflict with locals whose culture is not respected, as officials often talk only about the development of tourism."

Then Suryanto explained how the New Order government under Soeharto often evicted farmers from their land in the name of development.

He hopes that in the case of the development of Boko Temple complex, the government will take local culture into consideration.

It is believed that local people are the offspring of King Boko and his family. Their cultural heritage includes the mask dance and sanggem, a tradition which requires farmers to grow certain crops.

There are about 40 houses around the top of the Thousand Hills. In the rainy season, residents use water from lakes on the hill and in times of water scarcity they fetch water from villages at the foot of the hills.

There is few documentation on people residing on the hills. A 1982 census found some residents reached the age of between 100 and 150 years. Hardjowirono is the oldest resident and claims to be 134.

Traditions of the people are not documented. One of the most popular rituals they inherited from their ancestors is Tabuh Lingsir, which they hold at the beginning of every Javanese month of Sura.

Tabuh Lingsir is a gathering among elders. Until 1979, the gathering took place on the delta of Opak River at the foot of the hills. The delta, which locals called Tinakir Island, was submerged when the government built an reservoir there. Since then, gatherings have taken place at Ratu Boko Palace's square.

"So archeologists never take any notice of the locals, who are mostly peasants," Suryanto says. "These residents are believed to be the offsprings of King Boko and have preserved their cultural heritage generation after generation. They should retain their ancestral land."

In the vicinity of Bolo temple complex lies a number of historical sites like Barong temple, Banyunibo temple, Candi temple, Miri temple, Sumur Bandung Bondowoso pit and Dawangsari Stupa.

Ancient epigraphs found at the site of Boko Palace were written by Rakai Panangkaran (749-784). The area was then called Abhayagiri Wihara. Abhaya means no danger and giri means hill or mount, while wihara means Buddhist monastery.

In the period of 856-863, the king of Vasal, Rakai Walaing Pu Kumbayoni, renamed Abhayagiri Wihara the Walaing Palace. The Walaing kingdom is estimated to have existed from 10th century to 16th century, but no verified historical information about it is available.

Folklore has it that King Boko hailed from Bali.

The ruin of Boko palace was discovered by Dutch archeologist Van Boeckholtz in 1790. Then a study was conducted by Dutch archeologist FDK Bosch, who compiled a report titled Kraton van Ratoe Boko. It is from this report that the site became known.

The Boko palace complex was divided into four peripheries. The western part are the hills. The center consists of the main gate, the square, Pembakaran temple, a pond and a guesthouse; the southeast consists of a hall, a sleeping platform, three minor temples, a pond and a royal women's complex. The east periphery is made up of the Female Cave, the Male Cave, a pond, a Buddha statue and a royal ladies' complex.

Further exploration of the Boko palace complex is being conducted by Yogyakarta authorities in charge of archeology and heritage preservation. They have been digging in areas around the compound. Some structures have been renovated and others left as they are.

"Because the Boko complex is still shrouded with mystery, it will probably be earmarked as a place for tourists who have a special interest in archeology," says Yuwono Sri Suwito, the operations and development director for PT Taman Wisata Candi Borobudur, Prambanan, Kraton Boko.

"Only those interested in exotic archaic heritage will be interested in visiting."

But the presence of modern structures in and around the Boko complex has made it unexotic.

"The new structures have ruined the image of Boko complex as an exotic place," says Yoyok, a cultural observer from Yogyakarta. "See, an entrance gate more appropriate for a hotel was built."