Cultural activists revive Javanese ancient spirit

Cultural activists revive Javanese ancient spirit

By M. Achadi

YOGYAKARTA (JP): On top of Bukit Seribu, about three
kilometers south of the famed Prambanan Temple, lies a unique
historical site -- the Boko Palace complex. Relics within the
complex include temples, gates, forts and heaps of rocks.

Situated next to Sambirejo village, the complex, which is also
called Ratu Boko palace, was a landmark in Javanese civilization
which was built several centuries ago.

The complex has a lot of mysteries yet to be brought to light:
when and by whom it was built. Only one thing is known for sure
-- it is older than Prambanan and Borobudur temples.

But for the Javanese, Boko Temple is more than just a
controversy on who founded it and when. The complex shows the
sophistication of Javanese civilization as evident in the
subsequent discovery of other major temples like Prambanan,
Kalasan and several minor ones around Prambanan.

In March, Yogyakarta cultural activists initiated an event
they called "Boko Palace Cultural Camping". The event will last
until August and aims at exploring the spiritual values of the
complex.

"We mean to bridge the gap between the past and future with
the spiritual value of historical sites," says Suryanto
Sastroatmodjo, one of those who initiated the cultural event. "We
chose Boko as the first place because it is the most mysterious
of all."

Suryanto said the event was intended to rediscover the
"ancient spirit" to help find an orientation for cultural
development in the future.

The cultural camping program consists of discussions on
Javanese spirituality, wayang (shadow puppet) shows, dances,
poetry reading and exhibitions of paintings and installation
works. A wayang show by famous puppet master Manteb Sudarsono
will top off the event in August.

The exhibition involves students of Yogyakarta's Indonesian
Arts Institute (ISI) and artists from Yogyakarta, Surakarta and
East Java. Painters H. Widayat and Kartika Affandi auctioned off
their works to finance the event.

Local residents are taking part in the program by performing
folk dances like Jatilan Irama Turangga, Topeng Hitam, Kubro,
Sorengan and Srandul Bokoharjo.

The cultural camping program also serves as criticism of
archeological activities which almost always ignore local
sociocultural conditions.

"Archeologists are the long hand of the government so it is
only natural that they think more about the economy and tourism
than of local people's interests," Suryanto says.

"It often happens that government projects spark conflict with
locals whose culture is not respected, as officials often talk
only about the development of tourism."

Then Suryanto explained how the New Order government under
Soeharto often evicted farmers from their land in the name of
development.

He hopes that in the case of the development of Boko Temple
complex, the government will take local culture into
consideration.

It is believed that local people are the offspring of King
Boko and his family. Their cultural heritage includes the mask
dance and sanggem, a tradition which requires farmers to grow
certain crops.

There are about 40 houses around the top of the Thousand
Hills. In the rainy season, residents use water from lakes on the
hill and in times of water scarcity they fetch water from
villages at the foot of the hills.

There is few documentation on people residing on the hills. A
1982 census found some residents reached the age of between 100
and 150 years. Hardjowirono is the oldest resident and claims to
be 134.

Traditions of the people are not documented. One of the most
popular rituals they inherited from their ancestors is Tabuh
Lingsir, which they hold at the beginning of every Javanese month
of Sura.

Tabuh Lingsir is a gathering among elders. Until 1979, the
gathering took place on the delta of Opak River at the foot of
the hills. The delta, which locals called Tinakir Island, was
submerged when the government built an reservoir there. Since
then, gatherings have taken place at Ratu Boko Palace's square.

"So archeologists never take any notice of the locals, who are
mostly peasants," Suryanto says. "These residents are believed to
be the offsprings of King Boko and have preserved their cultural
heritage generation after generation. They should retain their
ancestral land."

In the vicinity of Bolo temple complex lies a number of
historical sites like Barong temple, Banyunibo temple, Candi
temple, Miri temple, Sumur Bandung Bondowoso pit and Dawangsari
Stupa.

Ancient epigraphs found at the site of Boko Palace were
written by Rakai Panangkaran (749-784). The area was then called
Abhayagiri Wihara. Abhaya means no danger and giri means hill or
mount, while wihara means Buddhist monastery.

In the period of 856-863, the king of Vasal, Rakai Walaing Pu
Kumbayoni, renamed Abhayagiri Wihara the Walaing Palace. The
Walaing kingdom is estimated to have existed from 10th century to
16th century, but no verified historical information about it is
available.

Folklore has it that King Boko hailed from Bali.

The ruin of Boko palace was discovered by Dutch archeologist
Van Boeckholtz in 1790. Then a study was conducted by Dutch
archeologist FDK Bosch, who compiled a report titled Kraton van
Ratoe Boko. It is from this report that the site became known.

The Boko palace complex was divided into four peripheries. The
western part are the hills. The center consists of the main gate,
the square, Pembakaran temple, a pond and a guesthouse; the
southeast consists of a hall, a sleeping platform, three minor
temples, a pond and a royal women's complex. The east periphery
is made up of the Female Cave, the Male Cave, a pond, a Buddha
statue and a royal ladies' complex.

Further exploration of the Boko palace complex is being
conducted by Yogyakarta authorities in charge of archeology and
heritage preservation. They have been digging in areas around the
compound. Some structures have been renovated and others left as
they are.

"Because the Boko complex is still shrouded with mystery, it
will probably be earmarked as a place for tourists who have a
special interest in archeology," says Yuwono Sri Suwito, the
operations and development director for PT Taman Wisata Candi
Borobudur, Prambanan, Kraton Boko.

"Only those interested in exotic archaic heritage will be
interested in visiting."

But the presence of modern structures in and around the Boko
complex has made it unexotic.

"The new structures have ruined the image of Boko complex as
an exotic place," says Yoyok, a cultural observer from
Yogyakarta. "See, an entrance gate more appropriate for a hotel
was built."