Crafting her legacy in jewelry design

Rita A. Widiadana, The Jakarta Post, Ubud, Bali

On Sept. 11 last year, when the twin towers of the World Trade Center in New York collapsed into a heap of rubble, the hearts of a loving couple broke, too.

For Runi and Adriaan Palar, New York has always been a loving and memorable city. More than 30 years ago, they met and fell in love on its streets.

"I was a Javanese classic dancer who was invited to perform at the Indonesia Expo in New York in the early 1960s," remembered Runi, sitting in her spacious and cozy house in Ubud. "Mas Adri was an interior designer who, at the time, worked for the Indonesian stand.

"Our meeting in New York totally changed my dreams and transformed my entire life."

Instead of becoming a stage star, Runi, short for Sotjawaruni Kumala Palar, once a favorite dancer of the Yogyakarta royal court, became one of Indonesia's most accomplished jewelry designers.

"My husband encouraged me to try designing jewelry, silver in particular," sighed Runi.

Although she is a daughter of the late R.S. Tjokrosoeroso, a revered silversmith who displayed silverwork for 14 consecutive months in San Francisco in 1938, Runi was not interested in the craft.

There was an "unwritten rule" among silversmiths in Yogyakarta and Central Java that prevented women from making jewelry, she maintained. "It's really a boys's club," Runi added.

But for a young mother like Runi, a life on stage was no longer suitable.

"Why don't you try your hand at silver?" asked Adriaan. "It never entered my mind that I could do this job," said Runi, once a student of the Bandung Textile Institute.

"Yet, designing and producing silver jewelry was the best option for me because I could take care of my young kids and, at the same time, do domestic duties at home," said Runi.

Starting from a small garage workshop at her home in Geger Kalong, Bandung, in 1976, Runi branched out to create numerous refined and high quality pieces of silver and gold jewelry, souvenir items and exquisite silverware.

Runi now has three workshops in Bandung, Yogyakarta and Bali. She has also opened exclusive boutiques at several local hotels, as well as in Japan and other countries.

"Nothing is impossible for a person who believes in God," she said. She feels God always blesses her, whatever she is doing.

"It seems that He has given me everything I never dreamed of."

Convincing people to like and to wear silver as precious jewelry was not an easy job for Runi.

Previously, silver was considered cheap and only used for inexpensive household and ceremonial items. Gold was the most desirable jewelry.

By creating and improving its forms and designs, and then combining it with precious gems, silver could be transformed into an array of priceless jewelry, Runi said.

For 25 years, she has gone through the ups and downs of business. To celebrate the silver anniversary of her business, which fell on Dec. 29, Runi and Adriaan opened a jewelry museum in Ubud.

"It was Mas Adri's idea. He designed the building, and selected the exhibits," Runi said, pointing to the museum building.

She said there were numerous artists who were attracted to the jewelry business but quickly gave up once the crisis began.

"The glitter of jewelry is like a magnet for many people. But, the jewelry business is very tough," Runi said.

"We have to continue learning and monitoring new trends in designs and international market demands."

She acknowledged that the country, despite the abundance of materials and motifs for use in designs, still lagged behind others in promotional and marketing strategy. Lack of perseverance is also a common character flaw of many Indonesian jewelry designers.

"Many of us are easily satisfied with what we have produced and marketed."

Runi is saddened that many jewelers think only about the quantity of silver products they export overseas.

"They regard their creations only as mass handicraft products instead of valuable art forms," she added.

She should know, because Runi was, at first, also one of those who was initially satisfied with her export sales of silver items.

"Later, I realized I should have created special handmade products to give added value to my creations.

Runi currently produces 50,000 pieces of gold and silver jewelry in the form of women's and men's jewelry, gift items and silverware. "Now, I am quite happy to see my items are displayed in prestigious jewelry boutiques and shops around the world."

In Japan, her major market, she opened a representative office and exclusive boutique. "During this time of crisis, we could not sit around doing nothing, complaining about the drop in sales. We have to continue aggressively opening new markets and finding new buyers.

As a businesswoman, the delicate and soft-voiced woman had to become a tough negotiator.

"In the world of business, women have to achieve power through the use of their brains. It's learning by doing."

Having attended various international exhibitions and seminars, she considers Indonesian businesspeople as being too shy to express and promote themselves.

"Businesswomen from the Philippines and other Asian nations are so confident and eloquent. Why shouldn't we learn from them?"

Runi is lucky to have a supportive family. Together with their three children, Runi and Adrian have developed a new company, Kirta Kaloka, which specializes in textiles, batik and jewelry items made of wood, bronze, porcelain and leather.

"I really feel so complete. What else could I ask for from God and from life," Runi said with a smile.