Colorful Muslim dresses to light up new millennium

By Agni Amorita

JAKARTA (JP): The millennium euphoria, which seems to be everywhere, has also struck nine fashion designers who concentrate on Muslim outfits. The designers from the Indonesian Fashion Designers Association (APPMI) held on Wednesday the 2000 Tendance Show at the Sahid Jaya Hotel in Jakarta. Their creations displayed a funky spirit in rainbow colors. Each designer offered 14 new creations on the catwalk, while an additional one was displayed on a mannequin.

The collections were choreographed by designer Raizal Raiz and Sting's newest spiritual song accompanied the presentation of the gowns, which reminded us of the Star Trek uniform or metallic balloons. They were created by senior Muslim dress designer Gusmi Djufri, who applied the Star Trek mini hood in a unique collar. "I chose sporty and masculine ideas as my main theme for this newest collection, but my inspiration is from the Chinese kung fu uniform with its Shanghai collar and three-quarter pallazo pants," she said. "Then for the futuristic details I add some outer spaceship atmosphere like silvery metallic colors with those geometric collars." For a glittering effect, Djufri used sequins in her embroidered work.

TV-star-turned-fashion-designer Ida Leman said goodbye to her trademark menor (garish) bright colors. "This time I've taken to silvery white," she said. Her off white collections were still added with funky embroidered ornaments in various eye-catching places, including the jilbab (headgear that exposes the face but not the ears, neck and hair). "The ornament in the jilbab is not meaningless because it has a function as a motif repeated from the dress to send a message that they are united," Ida explained. Her white dresses became funkier with her childish approach such as puffed sleeves and other balloon-shaped patterns around the knee or ankle. Ida, who sells her outfits for more than Rp 500,000 per set (they usually comprise three pieces; tunic, long skirt and jilbab), also added some alternative materials such as glossy textiles from the new generation of organdy.

Ida is a favorite designer for local celebrities who want to perform in Muslim fashion, such as for special TV programs during the Ramadhan month or photographic shoots for calendars.

Anne Rufaidah's collection was also dominated by bright yellow, orange and green colors, combined harmoniously in a Bohemian theme. Thai silk and chiffon were made into the traditional Baju Bodo from Sulawesi in a very feminine long poncho style. "I was interested with Baju Bodo's square pattern," Anne said, pointing to her look-like Mexican poncho. "This is very unique but had a high acceptance from the buyers because it can be worn easily."

This Muslim fashion show was held separately from APPMI's regular Tendance Show held last month because of the different market target. "This decision was taken about six years ago, from the first time APPMI held its annual show," explained Raizal Raiz, who is also a senior member of the organization.

The organizers presented the collections at the best time: the month of Ramadhan usually translates as the peak season for selling Muslim dresses.

"In Ramadhan I usually sell ten times more than usual," said Anne, who creates about 30 new designs a month.

The message they sent seemed larger with many improvements in their creations. Although offering such semi-avant garde collections the nine Muslim-outfit fashion designers agreed to push their wearable quality by reducing their hyperbolic details, such as reducing large scarf usage in the collections. One important preference was the practical jilbab on offer. Some of the designers preferred a simple jilbab such as an uger, or a jilbab with a small strap/string at its back to make its position stable. Anne Rufaedah introduced a pinless jilbab by adding a small but strong string to the item.