Colorful Muslim dresses to light up new millennium

Colorful Muslim dresses to light up new millennium

By Agni Amorita

JAKARTA (JP): The millennium euphoria, which seems to be
everywhere, has also struck nine fashion designers who
concentrate on Muslim outfits. The designers from the Indonesian
Fashion Designers Association (APPMI) held on Wednesday the 2000
Tendance Show at the Sahid Jaya Hotel in Jakarta. Their creations
displayed a funky spirit in rainbow colors. Each designer offered
14 new creations on the catwalk, while an additional one was
displayed on a mannequin.

The collections were choreographed by designer Raizal Raiz and
Sting's newest spiritual song accompanied the presentation of the
gowns, which reminded us of the Star Trek uniform or metallic
balloons. They were created by senior Muslim dress designer Gusmi
Djufri, who applied the Star Trek mini hood in a unique collar.
"I chose sporty and masculine ideas as my main theme for this
newest collection, but my inspiration is from the Chinese kung fu
uniform with its Shanghai collar and three-quarter pallazo
pants," she said. "Then for the futuristic details I add some
outer spaceship atmosphere like silvery metallic colors with
those geometric collars." For a glittering effect, Djufri used
sequins in her embroidered work.

TV-star-turned-fashion-designer Ida Leman said goodbye to her
trademark menor (garish) bright colors. "This time I've taken to
silvery white," she said. Her off white collections were still
added with funky embroidered ornaments in various eye-catching
places, including the jilbab (headgear that exposes the face but
not the ears, neck and hair). "The ornament in the jilbab is not
meaningless because it has a function as a motif repeated from
the dress to send a message that they are united," Ida explained.
Her white dresses became funkier with her childish approach such
as puffed sleeves and other balloon-shaped patterns around the
knee or ankle. Ida, who sells her outfits for more than Rp
500,000 per set (they usually comprise three pieces; tunic, long
skirt and jilbab), also added some alternative materials such as
glossy textiles from the new generation of organdy.

Ida is a favorite designer for local celebrities who want to
perform in Muslim fashion, such as for special TV programs during
the Ramadhan month or photographic shoots for calendars.

Anne Rufaidah's collection was also dominated by bright
yellow, orange and green colors, combined harmoniously in a
Bohemian theme. Thai silk and chiffon were made into the
traditional Baju Bodo from Sulawesi in a very feminine long
poncho style. "I was interested with Baju Bodo's square pattern,"
Anne said, pointing to her look-like Mexican poncho. "This is
very unique but had a high acceptance from the buyers because it
can be worn easily."

This Muslim fashion show was held separately from APPMI's
regular Tendance Show held last month because of the different
market target. "This decision was taken about six years ago, from
the first time APPMI held its annual show," explained Raizal
Raiz, who is also a senior member of the organization.

The organizers presented the collections at the best time: the
month of Ramadhan usually translates as the peak season for
selling Muslim dresses.

"In Ramadhan I usually sell ten times more than usual," said
Anne, who creates about 30 new designs a month.

The message they sent seemed larger with many improvements in
their creations. Although offering such semi-avant garde
collections the nine Muslim-outfit fashion designers agreed to
push their wearable quality by reducing their hyperbolic details,
such as reducing large scarf usage in the collections. One
important preference was the practical jilbab on offer. Some of
the designers preferred a simple jilbab such as an uger, or a
jilbab with a small strap/string at its back to make its position
stable. Anne Rufaedah introduced a pinless jilbab by adding a
small but strong string to the item.