Cirebon's carriages bear historical legacy

By R. Agus Bakti

CIREBON, West Java (JP): Situated on the north coast of West Java, Cirebon is famous for its shrimp and the sweltering heat which engulfs the city during the day.

It is also known for its kraton (palaces), such as Kasepuhan (for elder nobles), Kanoman (for younger people) and Kacirebonan, which signifies it is of and for Cirebonese culture. They are hallmarks of the city's identity as one of the historical gateways of Java, a home to bustling commercial interests as well as the spread of Islam throughout the island.

The palaces would not be complete without their famous carriages, which have played a great role in the making of history.

Several carriages are found in Kanoman palace, according to Ratu Mawar Kartina, the 26-year-old daughter of Sultan Kanoman. She said the most significant vehicles in the collection are two dating back to the 15th century.

"To the palace, these two old carriages are more significant (historically) than they are in terms of tourism," she said. "That is why they continue to be conserved."

The carriages originally functioned as the means of transportation for court nobles, bearing them to the homes of their relatives and fellow aristocrats. They were the luxury sedans of their day.

The carriages, made of wood, iron and other materials, are kept in the palace museum.

They are called the Paksi Naga Liman and Jempana carriages. The Paksi Naga Liman is the sultan's vehicle and the Jempana is for the use of palace noblewomen.

Mawar said the carriages were made during the rule of Panembahan Losari in 1428, making them older than the palace, which was established in 1675.

Up close, the carriages show specific characteristics, including the typical batik motifs of the area. It is said Paksi Naga Liman was the royal carriage of Sunan Gunungjati, one of the propagators of Islam in Java.

There is a significant difference from the carriages, such as the Kangjeng Kyai Garudayaksa, of the Yogyakarta palace, which were usually gifts from the Netherlands. The locally built Kanoman carriages have a lower driver's seat and lack the spacious interior of their Yogyakarta counterparts.

As ancient objects, the carriages were not separated from the mystical values in society and were viewed as sacred; to this day, there are those who continue to worship them. In a rite involving the washing of the carriages, some people believe they will gain good fortune by taking part.

The few visitors to the palaces on regular days are usually not tourists, but people conducting research for academic papers.

"It's crowded during school holidays and also on the anniversary of the birth of Prophet Muhammad, as it coincides with the rite marking the washing of the palace's objects," said Mawar.

Today, the carriages are rarely used, except for the coronation of a new sultan or other ceremonies of exceptional pomp and grandeur.

Still, the carriages continue to serve their role in history.

"When revealed, their story is endless, either regarding their history, myths and uniqueness," Mawar said.