Check out all the options for your treatment

Getting There: National flag carrier SriLankan flies three times a week from Jakarta to Colombo. Its US$808 buy-one-get-one- free program comes to an end on June 30, but the airline can help design a trip, whether it's a tour of Buddhist shrines, a golf jaunt (it's sponsoring the SriLankan Airlines Golf Classic in Kandy in October) or Ayurveda therapy (tel. 521-2009).

"We have a lot to offer Indonesians, but maybe they don't know much about Sri Lanka yet," acknowledged SriLankan Indonesia manager Lakshman Weerasooriya. "But, I'm optimistic about the future, and hopefully we'll add a fourth flight."

At the moment, with few Indonesian tourists making the trip, most of your fellow passengers are likely to be Indonesian migrant workers headed to the Middle East.

Ayurveda Therapy: I came to know about the Negombo site through Jetwing, one of the largest travel businesses in Sri Lanka, which I had become acquainted with when it jointly sponsored a trip along with SriLankan for Indonesian media earlier this year.

Although the actual villas are still under construction, the treatment is professionally handled (http://jetwing.net). Treatment programs range from $330 for a five-day program to $935 for 21 days, not inclusive of board.

However, it may be worth your while to look into different places in Sri Lanka, and also to do a background check on the practitioners. The definitive guide to Sri Lanka is Insight Guide: Sri Lanka (Singapore), which includes a section on bona- fide Ayurveda centers.

Also, while it is probably better for those unfamiliar with the country to cooperate with a travel agency, it's important to make sure that the initial promises are fulfilled and there are not hidden or additional expenses.

Hassles: In Colombo and Negombo, zealous hawkers and scam artists with a plaintive cry of "change money, change money" sometimes move in on tourists. Take a deep breath, shake your head and walk on.

Also, Sri Lanka's tourism facilities are nowhere near as developed as those in Jakarta and other major Asian cities (no IDD calls in most hotel rooms, for instance). Be patient, tell the staff your needs and Sri Lankans' famed hospitality will win you over, even if it takes a little longer to get it done.