Cervino brings northern Italian cuisine to Jakarta

Bill Blade, Contributor, Jakarta

Kemang has long laid claim to being the gastronomic center of Jakarta, a claim that is now more than a little reinforced by Cervino, a fine Italian eatery that must be up their with the best of them in this part of the world.

Appropriately located above an Italian furniture store on Jl. Kemang Raya, this stylish and relaxed restaurant is the creation of Chef Mario de Carlini, who previously put Toscano on the map, and had a major hand to play in creating the Izzi Pizza concept.

Concentrating on the cuisine of Northern Italy, this welcome new arrival -- it has only been open for two months -- takes it's name from one of Italy's highest mountains, Monte Cervino, better known to English speakers as the Matterhorn, half of which lies in Italy and the other half in Switzerland.

As one would expect from this part of Italy, the focus is firmly placed on lots of fresh pasta, cheese, mushrooms and other wild produce, and of course, meat.

For those partial to fish, Chef Mario also works wonders with salmon and trout, the ubiquitous denizens of subalpine Italy's fast-flowing streams and rivers.

A cozy and convivial traditional trattoria, with lots of autumnal browns and burgundies to massage the eyes, Cervino was crowded on the Monday evening of our visit, a remarkable feat in Jakarta at the moment and more than ample testimony to Chef Mario's culinary skills, if any is needed given his long and distinguished career here in the metropolis.

Greeted upon our arrival by a perky and attentive waitress, we were shown promptly and efficiently to the window table we had reserved the previous evening.

With an uninterrupted view through a vast expanse of plate glass out over the rather dubious delights of Jl. Kemang Raya, a scene guaranteed to make the diner thank his lucky stars he's inside, not outside, we began to peruse the uncluttered, well thought-out menu, full of helpful descriptions of the treats on offer, as any good menu should be.

As mentioned above, fresh pasta is high up on the Cervino list of claims to fame. With such delights as Linguine al Granchio (Linguine pasta served in a smooth wine and crab sauce), and Tortellini di Ricotta e Spinaci (ricotta cheese and spinach- filled pasta served with butter, sage and Parmesan cheese), Cervino is set to become a mecca for all Jakarta pasta freaks.

And don't forget to check out the Gnocchi di Patate al Gorgonzola (potato dumpling pasta served with a tasty Gorgonzola cheese sauce), which I found to be a wonderfully hedonistic creation, and an excellent advertisement for Northern Italian cuisine in general.

For the main course, Chef Mario has a host of culinary revelations in store, such as Tagliata di Manzo (rib eye grilled to medium, cut into thin slices and topped with smoked cheese, fresh tomato, rosemary and virgin olive oil), Petto di Pollo alla Valdostana (roast chicken breast filled with Asiago cheese and smoked beef, served with polenta mashed corn and mushroom sauce), or, a subalpine Italy signature dish, Trora Salmonata alle Erbe di Montagna, a fat, juicy, pan-fried rainbow trout served with mountain herb sauce and green vegetables.

And, to crown an evening of excellent dining, Cervino also offers delectable homemade Italian ice cream. As you'd expect, the gelato has proved remarkably popular, so much so that during our visit the only flavor left in the vats was strawberry.

Perhaps just as well as from what I sampled, this stuff could well prove addictive.

But even if the ice-cream has all gone the way that ice-cream is wont to go, those with a sweet tooth have no cause to despair as there's lot's of other delicious homemade Italian desserts on offer, including Panna Cotta ai Frutti de Bosco (creme pudding served with blueberries, rasberries and various other fruits of the forest), and Semi Fredo al Caffe (semi-frozen coffee pudding anointed with a dash of espresso).

Cervino also boasts a reasonably presentable cellar, including wines from Australia, the United States and, needless to say, Italy.

For a fine red wine to go with your meal, check out the 2000 Antinora Santa Cristina Toscano or the 2000 Rufino Chianti, while those who prefer white should find either the 2000 Pegaso Soave Classico or the 2000 Antinora Toscano Bianco more than acceptable.

With the price tag for a 3-course meal for two being in the region of Rp 400,000 to Rp 500,000 (excluding wine), Cervino, perhaps in line with its relaxed sophistication, by no means heads the list when it comes to expense.

But if Signor Mario, by naming his new eatery after one of Italy's highest mountains is suggesting that it is close to the pinnacle of Jakarta's gastronomic league, then he is not telling any fibs, for I found this restaurant to be truly excellent in all senses of the word -- tip-top service, mouth-watering food, and marvelous ambience. Well-recommended!

Cervino, Ristorante Italiano, Jl. Kemang Raya No.2, South Jakarta 12730 (tel.: 719-4051). Opening hours: 11 a.m.-3 p.m./4 p.m.-11 p.m. All major credit cards accepted.