Cartier takes time out to mark watch centenary

Hera Diani, The Jakarta Post, Singapore

The vacant lot at Sentosa Island had been turned into a club in the shape of an airplane hangar, with a bar, a small stage and a space with "dance floor" written on it.

Illuminated boards telling the story of Cartier decorated the entrance hall, with glass cases of watches on display.

The atmosphere was decidedly hip: DJs, free flow of food and drink, fashion show with gorgeous Caucasian models at regular intervals and a bevy of socialites who kept the party going until dawn.

The party earlier this month was held for the 100th anniversary of Louis Cartier's creation of his first wristwatch, one of the first modern wristwatches.

Initiated in April in Paris, the centenary celebration has included major events all over the world, from Hong Kong to Taiwan to Rio de Janeiro and, of course, Singapore.

"Commercially speaking, we don't need it (the events). The business has been incredible," Alain Bernard, Cartier managing director for Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia, told The Jakarta Post prior to the party.

"We're really confident with this watch, and so far, it's working. The response is good and the design is strong, and extra thin."

The Santos collection, Bernard said, symbolized the passion and fellowship between two men at the beginning of the last century.

Louis Cartier, the grandson of Louis-Francois Cartier who founded the jewelry business in 1847, designed the wristwatch so that best friend and aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont could tell the time while he was flying an airplane.

The collection is said to be an icon of modern watchmaking, for the leather strap -- the first material used for watches at the time -- the screws with the geometrical design, rounded angles and the curve of the lugs converging toward the bracelet.

Not until 1911 was the Santos put on sale, continuing to develop in style and type, as the Santos-Dumont and Santos de Cartier. There has also been Santos perfume.

Aside from Santos, there are other Cartier watch designs, such as Tank and Tonneau, which come in a variety of shapes.

The newest Santos 100 is a sporty and elegant model, very thin, with a steel case and yellow bezel, black Roman numerals, and mechanical movement with automatic winding mechanism.

It's price is at least S$30,000 (US$17,600).

Later on this year, the Santos Demoiselle women's collection will be launched. The watch is an homage to Santos-Dumont's famous airplane Demoiselle.

Despite Bernard's statement, from the theme of the party and all, it is obvious that Cartier wants to grab a younger market, the "beginners" as Bernard put it.

The company's strongest markets by far are Europe, Japan and the United States.

Europe has been stagnant in recent years, but the States, surprisingly, is perking up, thanks to the strong economy and the good euro to U.S. dollar exchange rate.

"Historically, the U.S. was a Rolex market. You're 25, you have the first bonus, and you buy a Rolex. That's 80 percent of the case. But it's changing now," Bernard said.

Asia is a growing market for the luxury brand, with the increasing sophistication and awareness of consumers.

"The clients are getting very demanding, they want the highest brand, the most quality product."

China, of course, carries huge potential, and this year there will be seven more boutiques to the existing three.

India and Russia also provide good prospects.

Watches, Bernard said, were considered something special in Asia, with an enduring appreciation of them.

"There is a higher proportion of watch collectors and aficionados in Asia versus Europe and versus other parts of the world. It's a symbol, and symbol is very important for Asian people," he said.

Back in 1997, however, the monetary crisis did affect business, as the company also relies on Asian travelers, especially Japanese, Chinese and Koreans.

"But that was not a problem. Our global business didn't drop, because we have very loyal customers with very high spending power. Now, travelers are increasing again," Bernard said.

Competition is nothing new, dating back to when the company made its debut in the 19th century.

"Southeast Asia is also very competitive. There's everything, everywhere.. designer watches, sporty watches, fashion watches."

In Indonesia, the number one luxury watch brand remains Rolex, with Cartier hovering between second and third place.

Bernard said that the trend was to a more mature and sophisticated design, going toward the mechanical watch, what is good, real and of high quality.

"So, the market can be oversaturated, (but) it won't be a major issue for us."