Carcosa Seri Negara: KL's luxury Hotel on the hill

By C.G. Miller

KUALA LUMPUR (JP): An insistent voice called my name over the din of the crowd, as I emerged with them from the Overnight Express from Singapore. I looked over to see a young man in a smart gray uniform, beckoning me. Taking my bags, he introduced himself, "Sir, I'm your butler, Raul," then escorted me out of the station.

When I booked my stay at Carcosa Seri Negara, Kuala Lumpur's finest, they had told me I would be met on arrival, but as I left the brightness of the platform and adjusted my eyes to the pre- dawn darkness, I was a bit taken aback. Raul had already stowed my luggage and was standing by the open back door of a gleaming white limousine.

Only minutes after leaving the railway station, Raul smoothly guided the limousine through a sweeping turn off the highway into the city's central Lake Gardens. After climbing swiftly into the foliage and sweeping through a bend, we advanced on a set of large gates. As we decelerated briefly to pass the security, Raul said, "Sir, that's Seri Negara on the right," pointing out a large colonial mansion, "but you'll be staying up ahead at Carcosa. During your stay I'm at your service. If there's anything I can do, don't hesitate to ask."

Moments later, as we pulled up in front of a grand white house, gravel crunching under slowing tires, the KL skyline came into view over the treetops of the hotel's garden, the lights of the night slowly being extinguished by the light of the day.

"Welcome to Carcosa," Raul said with obvious pride, as he led me up the house's central staircase to my room. When he opened the door and ushered me inside, I said, to mask my surprise, "There must be some mistake. I didn't ask for a suite."

"Oh we only have suites, sir. I think you will find this very comfortable," he said calmly, to allay my concerns, I think.

After he had guided me around the suite, informing me of its amenities and pointing out the essential items -- light switches, TV, bathrobe and slippers and the bar fridge -- he stood at the door and said I should call him when I was ready for lunch.

"One last thing, sir, in case you should need something, there is a bell by the bed lamp."

With that, the door closed quietly and the whole wide world of the suite was mine.

Sinking into a comfortable chair, I put my feet up, grazed on the fruit plate, and browsed the suite's library. Flicking through a guidebook to Kuala Lumpur, I came across a whole chapter, entitled Carcosa and Seri Negara, Houses on the Hill.

As I read I quickly understood why my suite was fit for a king: Because many of Carcosa's and Seri Negara's guests are kings and there is no shortage of queens, princesses, prime ministers and presidents from around the world who make the elegant hotel their home when in KL.

Indeed, since the beginning of Malaysia's history, the two houses have played host to landmark events, and entertained the creme de la creme. Sir Frank Swettenham, the first Resident General of Malaya, built these grand residence at the turn of the century and from that time on they have remained the establishment's stage.

Now owned by the Malaysian people, and managed on their behalf by the Amann Resort group of Hong Kong, this history gives the hotel its regal atmosphere. The commercial function of the hotel is managed so as to maintain the houses at the center of Malaysian society.

Set on adjacent hilltops overlooking the extended green blanket of Lake Gardens, which stretches all the way to the city, Carcosa and Seri Negara, like the English country houses they were modeled on, are surrounded by gardens. This green expanse is a luxury few city hotels anywhere in the world can offer their guests.

Leaving the guidebooks and potted histories aside, I began to explore the cavernous suite and my attention was drawn to the sitting room and the balcony. Opening the French windows to drink in the freshness of the morning, I reclined on the lazy chair and dozed off, listening to song birds and the wind.

Waking rested just before midday, I rang Raul and said I would have lunch soon.

"Right you are, sir. We look forward to your presence in the dining room."

As one would expect from an establishment bound by a tradition of understated elegance, Carcosa's dining room is one of the finest in the city, if not in Southeast Asia. As I enjoyed grilled chicken in light sauce and a chilled white wine, I handled the silverware, and crystal, with appreciation, their quality making them a delight to use.

Sitting on the verandah after lunch, taking freshly brewed coffee, I was joined by the executive chef, Ricky Parianti. I asked about the challenge of cooking for nobility and their guests. He was quite forthcoming and told me of the many efforts to please.

"You know, it's hard, the guests expect the very best, and some days we have to work from before dawn to well after midnight to make sure they get it."

Not one to "talk shop" for nothing, Ricky asked if I had plans for the evening. Having only an afternoon appointment in the city, I admitted to being a bit lost for entertainment.

"Well, your timing couldn't have been better. Tonight the Instant Cafe Theater, one of KL's exciting companies, is putting on Shakespeare's Midsummer Night's Dream. The performance is just one of many in a month-long festival being held in our grounds, called Art in the Open. You'll have to excuse me, I have to run, but I'll see you at the show about eight."

Getting back from my afternoon engagement late, I had time to freshen up and wander slowly over to the other house, following the glare of stage lighting and the rustle of the waiting crowd. Before the first act, Ricky introduced me to Carcosa Seri Negara's general manager, Daniel Collins. We talked of the night's performance and his hopes for Art in the Open.

"I know this sounds old-fashioned, but I believe the hotel has a continuing role to play in the life of the city and the Art in the Open Festival is the start of what I hope will be an annual festival of arts here. Remember, Carcosa and Seri Negara are heritage buildings, so by opening our grounds to the public, as a venue for the arts and theater, people will not lose touch with their heritage."

Strolling back to Carcosa in the humid night air under the starfield, I breathed in the evening's fragrances. I felt a bit dismayed because my brief visit to these grand houses on the hill was coming to an end.

As Raul drove me back to the train station, he wished me a safe journey and his last parting comment, as he handed me my bag on the platform was, "Sir, remember, if there is anything we can do, just call."

The train's whistle announced its imminent departure, and just as the carriage began to move, I reached out to shake Raul's hand and thanked him.

"It has been a pleasure."