Cafe Batavia: Glimpse of old Jakarta in Kota

Bill Blade Contributor Jakarta

Those of you who pay any attention at all to the City pages of this esteemed rag will have noticed a propensity on the part of certain Jakarta bigwigs to turn their rapacious eyes every so often to the Kota area in the western part of town.

Promising the earth, moon and stars, and that Jakarta will be transformed into a green and pleasant paradise any day soon, their promises waft around for a while in somnolence-inducing clouds, just as you would expect from so much hot, if not actually toxic, air, before being forgotten completely for another year or so.

There was a time, in fact, when one particularly deranged bigwig was regularly to be found prancing around asserting that Kota was soon going to be even spicker and spanner than Singapore.

Dream on, pal!

For the fact remains that Kota is still just the same dive it always was: chaotic, crowded and crazy during the day, and dismal, dank and dreary at night (as well as disquietingly deserted).

And despite what the guidebooks say (Lonely Planet has a lot to answer for), the only tourist you're likely to find up in the old city is the odd lachrymose Dutchman, wandering around dejected and depressed at the fate that has befallen old Batavia.

There is, of course, always the possibility that you may meet other tourists, but these are most likely dyed-in-the-wool greenie activists convinced of the radioactive nature of Sunda Kelapa harbor, and abusing their visas for nefarious, environmental purposes.

But they should be warned, the penalties for such subversive activities around these parts are pretty severe, or so I'm told.

But despite all the chaos and the mess in Kota, there are one or two places there where you can see how things could be if some of the money spent on reclaiming the north Jakarta coast in an apparent effort to cause more floods was put to better use.

One of the best places to get some sense of what Jakarta was like before the lunatics started taking over the asylum and tearing down just about every vestige of the old city is Taman Fatahillah, or Fatahillah Park in English -- actually there is no park, just a large, paved square lined with impressive civic buildings from the East Indies era, such as the old Batavia Stadhuis, or city hall, and the architectural gem that housed the former Supreme Court during the Dutch days (now another one of those incredibly boring museums that Jakarta is so proud of).

No less impressive in its own way is Cafe Batavia, across the square from the Stadhuis and housed in a fine building that was constructed between 1805 and 1850.

Having fallen victim to the vicissitudes of time and the neglect that characterizes so much of Kota's architectural heritage, the building was finally restored, rehabilitated, repackaged and reopened in the early 1990's, in tandem with one of the more successful of the normally futile City Hall schemes I referred to above.

All done up in immaculate colonial style, Cafe Batavia was set fair to become Jakarta's answer to the Long Bar of Raffles Hotel, Singapore fame -- somewhere that Kipling's Dutch cousins, or their modern-day, camera-clutching successors, would feel right at home in.

Well, that was the plan, at any rate. The reality, however, turned out to be somewhat different and, after a couple of well- publicized run-ins with the police, the establishment appeared to be on its way to terminal decline.

All that is in the past, however, and Cafe Batavia, now under new management, has come the full circle and is finally bathing in the glory that it formerly aspired to -- a Jakarta landmark and a truly splendid venue for fine wining and dining.

Looks: There's no doubt about it, it's the looks that really set Cafe Batavia apart from your average, run-of-the-mill restaurant and boozer.

Occupying two floors of luxuriously appointed grandeur and style, this is one of the few places in Jakarta where you can get some idea of what this neck of the woods was like for the privileged few half a century ago. Even if it is only a replica, it's a darn good one.

The first floor, however, is rather dark and dreary, best passed through as rapidly as possible as you make a beeline for the sweeping staircase (somewhat reminiscent of the Titanic), on your way up to the Grand Salon (which serves as the dining room), and the absolutely delightful Churchill Bar on the second floor.

With the walls covered from top to bottom with an eclectic array of fascinating art photographs and vintage posters, you won't be lost for something to look at if your date turns out to be a tad dull.

And for all the Dutch visitors anxious to see that there's still some slight trace of their intrepid countrymen's long presence to be found here, the Churchill Bar has thoughtfully hung a fine array of portraits of the governors general of the Indies on the wall facing the bar (curiously, the last governor general to serve before the somewhat ignominious surrender of the East Indies to the Japanese sports a rather sardonic, uppity sort of smirk -- little did he know!).

There's also a touching portrait of the old Queen Beatrix, and an interesting Dutch poster proclaiming victory over the Nazis. All great stuff for nostalgia buffs.

The bar itself is semicircular affair of heavy, aged timber, and is eminently inviting. In fact, it's not difficult to see why it was once selected as one of the world's great bars by Newsweek magazine.

The only quibble I would have, however, is that with only a waist-high partition separating the bar from the dining room, the tipplers high up on their barstools (which are very high indeed), have to restrain themselves somewhat, and not to pontificate or guffaw too loudly. One wouldn't want censorious stares from the diners, would one?

As for the bartenders, well, like true professionals they know how to keep a discreet distance while always being there when needed.

What's it got?: Just about everything that you'd expect from such a superior establishment, with prices to match, of course. A local draft beer will hit you for Rp 24,000, while a Johnnie Walker Black or a Jameson Irish is to be had for Rp 50,000 (all prices exclude 10 percent tax and a 10 percent service charge).

Cafe Batavia also has a vast range of cocktails on offer, including some award-winning creations by their own bartenders, such as Borneo Sunset or Marry Me.

And don't forget the wonderful restaurant, which has a full continental dinner menu should the munchies kick in.

Odds and ends: Just about every male who has ever set foot in this particular establishment comments at some stage on the restrooms.

And worthy of comment they are, for the unfortunate tippler is required to urinate up against a stainless steel mirror that allows one's fellow urinators (for want of a better word) to size up what the competition's like, it they're that way inclined. A little off-putting, to say the least!

Verdict: Absolutely great spot. A lot of effort has gone into this place, and it shows. Great atmosphere, booze and food. Thumbs up all round!

-- I-box

Cafe Batavia, Taman Fatahillah, Kota, Jakarta (Tel. 6915531 - 34). Open 24 hours a day seven days a week.