Burgundy, a new upmarket watering hole

Bill Blade, Contributor, Jakarta

It's not every day that penniless, overworked hacks get a chance to savor the high life, but when we do we sure know how to milk it for all its worth.

Which is why a frisson of anticipation suddenly shot up my spine after the normally beastly editor directed me to check out Burgundy, the latest watering hole to pamper the punters at the Grand Hyatt, a place I've tended to avoid every since getting saddled with an enormous bar bill in O'Reiley's by some erstwhile chums a couple of years ago.

But, thankfully, staid ol' O'Reiley's has now gone the way of all watering holes that bear an uncanny resemblance to the morgue, and has been ably succeeded by Burgundy, just about as happening and trendy a place as you're likely to find anywhere.

Opening hours: 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. from Sunday to Thursday and 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. on Friday and Saturday.

Looks: Getting as far as the salubrious climes of Burgundy involves something of an expedition that includes climbing a number of grand, sweeping staircases. But nothing too strenuous, and well worth the effort when you realize what Burgundy's got in store.

From the outside, you could be misled into thinking that your destination is actually some sort of swanky hair salon, but this first, fleeting impression soon disappears after you push your way through the double glass doors into the warm, noisy and crowded interior.

For the joint was fairly heaving on the Saturday evening of our visit (already packed by 10 p.m.), with most of the clientele seemingly consisting of glamorous ladies (many of whom appeared to spend inordinate amounts of time playing with their cell phones), and eager gentlemen trying desperately to attract the attention of the said glamorous ladies.

One of the first things you notice after your eyes adjust to the predominant, yes, you guessed it, burgundy color scheme inside, is the inordinate number of mirrors.

In fact, there's so many mirrors that its difficult to escape the sight of your own ugly mug staring out at you unexpectedly from dark corners.

But, this isn't a bad thing (the mirrors, that is), for truth to tell, Burgundy is a tad on the small side, and all of these reflective devices tend to make it appear around 50 times bigger than it really is.

No smoke and mirrors, mind you, for despite the fact that just about everyone had a cigarette or cigar hanging out of their mouths, the air remained perfectly breathable all evening -- some mean extraction system!

Due, perhaps, to the presence of so many mirrors, Burgundy can in no way be characterized as one of those awful expat bars full of loud, fat middle-aged Caucasians (rather like myself, actually), endeavoring valiantly, and often obstinately, to get over here what they couldn't get at home in a month of Sundays.

No, this particular watering hole is the stomping ground of mostly Asian punters, including locals and a far sprinkling of Koreans and Japanese, with the odd bule (Caucasians) thrown in for good measure, all of which tends to reduce the incidence of "money politics" in the male-female relationship stakes ... I think.

Not, of course, that our Japanese and Korean brethren are adverse to nocturnal hanky-panky, not by a long chalk. But they do tend to pursue their goals in a quieter, more respectful manner, all of which means that Burgundy has a certain savior faire and finesse that's sadly absent from some other top Jakarta hotel bars I could mention.

What's it got: You name it, they've got it. Good booze, wine and music, and possibly one of the best selection of cigars you're likely to find anywhere here in the big smoke. These range from diminutive Cohiba Exquisitos (Rp 150,000 each) and Montecristo No. 5s (Rp 80,000 each), to the full flavored smoke provided by the monster Cohiba Siglo IVs (at Rp 210,000 a go).

But, what really sets Burgundy apart from the abject crowd of also-ran Jakarta hotel bars is the fabulous music.

Now, while I'm not normally partial to the likes of Matt Bianco, the young lady singer from New York and her fellow New Yorkers on the piano and the cello are capable of performing such unearthly magic that even the blandest of elevator music comes out sounding great.

With the African-American pianist giving his all, the cellist doing wonders with his bow and the glamorous diva singing her heart out, a visit to Burgundy is well worth the effort just to see this trio in action (over here out of fear of terrorism in New York, no doubt!).

Burgundy also boasts an extensive selection of fine wines, including many available by the glass, rather a treat after the Cuvee Speciale that's normally served up as the house wine in so many establishments.

And if after all the boozin' and carousin' you're feeling a little peckish, there's also an interesting selection of bar snacks available, including such light treats such as lobster sashami (Rp 450,000), foie gras terrine with toasted sour dough (Rp 150,000) and crostini with tomato, basil and air-dried beef (Rp 50,000), none of which are likely to fill you up but could do serious damage to the drinks budget.

Bill, please: Ah, here's the rub. No such thing as a free lunch, as they say!

A bottle of Corona, Budweiser, Victoria Bitter or any of the other beers from Burgundy's extensive selection will set you back Rp 50,000, while a shot of premium whisky will knock you on your ear for Rp 65,000. Meanwhile, cocktails average Rp 70,000 (all quoted prices exclude 10 percent service and 11 percent government tax.

Verdict: This is a great spot for a relaxing evening on the town. The excellent music, atmosphere and service will have you on cloud nine even if burgundy isn't your favorite color or you cringe every time you see your face staring out vacantly from a mirror. But, be warned, if you're planning to hit the town big- time via Burgundy, do bring your platinum card along for the ride. Methinks you'll need it around these parts.

Burgundy, Grand Hyatt Jakarta, Jl. M.H. Thamrin, Jakarta 10230. You can call them on 3901234.