Biyan, Baron delight Jakarta's fashion crowd

By Rita A. Widiadana

JAKARTA (JP): The catwalk was unusually enclosed with big white screens, while dozens of skinny models walked on the runway presenting the latest millennium collections of one of Indonesia's most sought-after fashion designers, Biyan Wanaatmadja.

In the Nov. 5 show at Hotel Mulia, Biyan, accompanied by textile designer Baron Manangsang, delighted Indonesia's fashion- conscious crowd with a series of feminine and luxury frocks.

Gleaming white, silver, gray -- the millennial colors -- dominated Biyan's 170 collection. The show opened with a series of elegant white sequin dresses worn with flat silvery shoes and sandals.

The models appeared at ease in their knee-length attire. Some of the dresses were teamed with long shawls, transparent organdy jackets and blouses, all in the pale colors of beige, aquamarine, grass green, white, pink and light blue.

Said Biyan: "I wanted to create beautiful, functional and wearable clothes for women."

Biyan's collection was combined with Baron Manangsang silk woven textiles, in the form of wide glittering shawls, jackets, and long wrap-around skirts.

Biyan created kebaya, (Javanese blouses), embroidered with gold and silver threads and beads. He modified the kebaya into stylish blouses and combined them with Baron's silk sarongs or long skirts and shawls.

Glittering long skirts with silk tops, pale chiffon dresses with lace plastered at the hip or shoulder and crisp suits with skirts at knee-length or below were among Biyan's best creations.

Most of the day wear and evening gowns were in the classic style. A touch of novelty came in the lacy cutouts at the hem of leather slacks or across a beige dress.

Biyan's vision for the next millennium was infinitely more feminine, although it offered little for the career woman to wear to the office.

For Baron, a former art consultant, this was his maiden show.

"I owe a lot to Biyan, who asked me to join his show," said the archaeologist turned textile designer.

Baron was a textile designer in the l970s producing beautiful batik and woven clothes before he became a noted art dealer and consultant.

"I decided to return to my batik and woven work only a few years ago when my old partners, traditional batik and woven textile makers, asked my to resume my textile business," said Baron whose textile creations made in Nonik Tawangsari styles can be found in high-class boutiques and department stores in Paris, Milan, New York, Singapore, Hong Kong and other fashion capitals in the world.

"I was proud Indonesian products could astonish international buyers who really appreciate delicate and handmade work," added Baron whose works can be found in the collections of Kenzo and other famous designers.

Baron relies on the beauty of textures from local silk material. "Indonesia has abundant materials for making inspiring and elaborate woven textiles, but we cannot make mass products because it will decrease the quality of the work."

Biyan, who is now becoming a household name in Asian fashion stages especially in Singapore, tailors his work to adjust to every occasion.

"I want my clients to be more creative in matching my dresses to suit any event."

Biyan said that they can match pipeline pants with jackets or blouses for daily occasions. At parties, women can wear his modest sequin numbers with glamorous and glittering shawls.

He urged women to be smart in wearing clothes to emphasize their personalities.

The fashion show was tasteful thanks to the inspirational stage design and the accompanying music, which at one point stunned the audience when a singer recited a Koran verse An Nass.

Some of the proceeds from the auction will go to two not for profit organizations: the AIDS foundation and the Private Sector Development Foundation.

Biyan and Baron deserved their standing ovation for their original collections that keep the Indonesian fashion world alive amid the ongoing economic crisis.

For many Indonesian designers, the crisis dealt a heavy blow to their businesses. Yet, at the same time it was also prompted some designers creativity.

Chairwoman of the Indonesian Fashion Designers Syamsidar Isa urged local designers to tap the international market.

Biyan, Harry Dharsono, Iwan Tirta, Obin are among the famous Indonesian designers who have carved their names in the international fashion world.

Biyan's business network with a number of international fashion houses like The Link has led to the availability of his work in his boutique network.

"I'm optimistic that Indonesian products will stand on the same platform with at least Asian designers," he said.

Baron, on the other hand, was cautious in dealing with foreign fashion houses.

"I have been approached by a number of foreign designers who wanted to use my textiles in their collections," Baron said.

But he said he was in no rush to accept the offers.

"Many of them wanted to use Indonesian textiles and put their names on them. I don't want to do this," Baron said.

If this was allowed to happen, Indonesian fashion designers and products would never be recognized in the international world.

"It is up to the Indonesian designers whether they just want to be a coolie or a real fashion worker," commented Baron.