Biak island, the 'other' side of Papua

Leony Aurora, The Jakarta Post, Biak, Papua

Papua has always seemed like another world to me, of untouched virgin forests with bare-chested men wearing the famous koteka, or penis-sheath made from dried gourds.

So I was rather unimpressed when I drove out from the airport in Biak, an island to the north of mainland Papua, and found a town similar to any other small town in Java -- except for the abundance of people sporting curly hair.

But let's see what Biak has to offer.

It was 1944 when the island first stood out on the world map. World War II was at its climax, and Biak was a base for Japanese resistance in the easternmost part of the archipelago.

Day in and day out, Allies planes searched the island from the air, not spotting any open camps, but they got shot at by unseen guns. Hidden in a vast network of caves on the island, the Japanese troops remained out of sight but in action.

Once the Allies gathered information from locals about the caves, they came swooping down from nearby Owi island, bombarding the hilly lands and turning Biak into the lunar landscape.

What was left from the era is a series of memorials, of which the most famous is the "Japanese Cave", located on the outskirts of Biak, the island's capital.

The cave complex is managed by Yusuf Rumarupen, whose family also owns the land where it is located, and visitors can enter it to look at a gaping hole left open during the Allies' air raid.

Lush trees and bushes may soften the sight, but there, thousands of Japanese soldiers were buried. Most were killed instantly by the bombs, but many others were found sitting with a samurai drawn across their stomachs -- they had committed harakiri, or honor suicide, to avoid being captured by the enemy.

Three caves connected to one another await inside for those brave enough to explore. Without a pair of sturdy boots and a flashlight, and not too eager to have bats darting into my face, I skipped the chance.

Instead, I walked down the moldy, slippery stairs into the biggest cave, tall and eerie in the twilight. Stalactites hung from the damp ceiling. Only crumbling drums, bullet cases and a rusty suitcase were left as witnesses to the troops' lives below ground.

"Dig deep enough, and you can still find bones here," said Yusuf's wife, Matilda Marien.

The artifacts collected from the caves and surrounding areas are displayed in a small museum at the complex's entrance -- from grenades to machine guns, bottles to tin cans, horn-rimmed glasses to toothbrushes stripped of their bristles, to dog tags.

The official World War II Memorial, built by the Japanese government, is located by the beach in Anggraidi village, a half- hour away from Biak.

The monument is a concrete square dotted with blocks to represent graves, and part of the square is covered by a cement arched roof over two sets of tables and chairs, an abstract cave. To the rear is a small room with four aluminum boxes containing bones -- verified as being of Japanese origin -- that were discovered in the province in the past year.

Every March, the Japanese government, along with families of the fallen soldiers, come to cremate the soldiers' bones and pray in their honor.

On the way to the memorial, my guide took me to the obscure, unmarked location of the Three-Chamber Cave, the wartime dwelling of Japanese troops.

Using candles to light the way, we threaded through the tunnels inside -- the iron rail installed to help visitors around now dangle uselessly -- and found tin mess kits, cans and a kendo mask.

Away from the WWII memorial and museum, I was eager to find more relaxing recreation.

The Biak Bird and Orchid Park is an ideal place for a family picnic. Lush green areas filled with tall trees and chirping birds -- such as the province's indigenous bird of paradise, colorful parrots and brown lories -- what's there not to like?

It is a shame, however, that the park is unkempt and a number of birds have died of starvation as funds for their feed from the provincial administration arrived too late.

As Biak is part of a reef, not many of its beaches are sandy, and tourists go to the tiny islands nearby, like Padaido and Rurbas, to find the perfect sunbathing spot.

Here are the pristine white beaches and colorful, shallow coral reefs of tropical brochures. Divers can enjoy an atoll, sea caves, WWII wreck dives -- yep, more of the war -- and underwater tunnels.

An impromptu visit to the coral reefs, however, proved to be difficult, as not many diving clubs are around. The one that I did find, Biak Diving, required at least a one-day advance booking, as it had to rent boats.

The sandy beach in front of the run-down Marau Hotel, about 45 minutes by motorbike from Biak, is an ideal spot for snorkeling and diving without having to leave the island.

I started on the far left side of the beach, swimming my way along the current. Coral reefs lay just meters from the sand, and after stretching out to sea for about a dozen meters, dropped down into a sharp cliff.

Although in some parts, particularly right in front the hotel, the reefs are dead and colorless, in most areas they are brightly tinted in all shades.

Christmas tree worms blipped at the slightest touch and the anemones were stocked with clown fish. Blue starfish rested calmly on the corals as purple and pink Nona Manis (sweet lady), as the locals called it, swam in groups.

I did not find in Biak the Papua of my imagination during my frenzied, two-day trip -- well, apart from the lack of public transportation and services.

But perhaps this "other" side of Papua, one with historical sites, marine life and dank, mysterious caves, complements the Papua of dense jungles and exotic tribes, and the province cannot be experienced fully without both.