Baturaden offers curative sulfur springs

Agus Maryono, The Jakarta Post, Purwokerto

For people in Central Java and its surroundings, Baturaden has long been a popular tourist resort that offers not just beautiful, green mountain scenery but fresh, cool air and waterfalls as its main attraction.

At the resort, which is located some 14 kilometers north of Purwokerto, tourists may sit and relax while enjoying the panoramic landscape, walk in the beautifully landscaped parks, hike the steep paths in the bush or take a walk along a suspension bridge over a scenic waterfall.

Those seeking a greater challenge, however, can take a three kilometer climb to reach Pancuran Pitu (the Seven Fountains), a a row of seven geysers on the mountainside. (The word pitu means seven in Javanese.)

Locals believe that the sulfur content in the water can cure skin ailments and rheumatism. The cost of bathing in the hot water is only Rp 2,000 per person.

Locals also make use of the sulfur sediment as a rubbing agent to offer massage services to visitors. The massage is usually done in the pool while the client's feet are submerged up to the ankles. "People like having a massage here, including tourists from overseas," said Sastro, 30, a masseur at Pancuran Pitu.

The cost of a massage is also relatively cheap, at Rp 10,000 per person, he added.

In a day, he says, he can service up to 10 visitors.

Some people, says Sastro, also believe that the sulfur springs possess supernatural powers. They believe that by taking a bath there, their chances of finding a soul mate will be easier.

"I do not know for sure when such a belief started, but it was a long time ago, said Sastro, who has worked as a masseur at the site for the last 15 years.

Those who come there seeking supernatural powers usually visit on a specific night, mostly on the eve of Kliwon (on a Friday) or Kliwon (on a Tuesday) according to the Javanese calendar, a night considered to be sacred. They perform a ritual by bathing under the fountains.

"You can see it for yourself by coming to this place at midnight on the eve of a Kliwon Friday or a Tuesday," he said, adding that many women could often be seen at the site on those two particular nights.

Most, according to Sastro, had experienced difficulty in finding a husband.

"But, again, I'm not sure whether their problems are really solved after visiting Pancuran Pitu. I believe it's all in the hands of God," Sastro said.

What was a matter of some concern, said Sastro, was that many sex workers from nearby places had also became regular visitors on the popular nights.

"They usually come in groups and bathe completely naked. They do not seem to be bothered by the presence of other visitors," said Sastro, adding that most of the sex workers believed that by taking a bath in the fountains they would increase their chances of attracting customers.

According to local psychic Karno, 34, the existence of Pancuran Pitu was the result of religious history. The site, he said, was the place where a former Hindu priest who converted to Islam meditated for the rest of his life.

The priest, known subsequently as Syeh Atas Angin, as the legend tells, was said to have challenged anyone who dared to fight him to determine the one with the greater supernatural power. A Muslim preacher named Syeh Maulana Maghribi responded to the challenge.

"Both were then involved in a bitter fight; their blows pierced the mountain walls and formed seven holes that are now the Pancuran Pitu," Karno explained.

After being defeated by Maulana Maghribi, Atas Angin then declared himself a Muslim and became a student of Maulana Maghribi. He continued to meditate there until his death.

"That's probably why people consider the place sacred and many visit it seeking supernatural powers," he said.

Darto of the Baturaden management company said thousands of visitors flocked to the resort every week. Numbers would increase on public holidays, especially during Idul Fitri, which marks the end of Ramadhan.

"Visitors can total more than 25,000 on such holidays," said Darto, adding that the entrance fee was Rp 2,500 per person.

Pancuran Pitu is not the only attraction at the resort. Pancuran Telu (the Three Fountains), a children's playground, hot and cold swimming pools, a zoo and agri-tourism are all features that draw crowds.

The resort can be reached from the Central Java provincial capital, Semarang, from Purwokerto, or even Yogyakarta. The journey takes about three to four hours to drive from either Semarang or Yogyakarta, but only 20 minutes from Purwokerto bus terminal or train station.