Batik takes time and patience

By Sri Wahyuni

YOGYAKARTA (JP): Batik is more than just a piece of cloth. It is a process involving a lot of time and meticulous effort, crucial in the creation of refined batik, and it is considered one of the world's oldest textile art forms.

Afif Syakur, a noted batik collector from Yogyakarta, explained the process of making batik as one comprising of several stages, including waxing, dyeing and finishing.

"Traditional batik cloth is usually made by using this method. If you miss just one of the steps, you can't say you have produced a batik piece," Afif said.

The waxing process is done by using a canting, a small, thin, spouted copper vessel which resembles a pipe.

A batik maker, usually a woman, starts the waxing process by filling her canting with molten wax. The wax usually consists of a combination of beeswax and paraffin.

Before the waxing process is done, she or another batik artist draws designs and motifs on a piece of white cloth. The main elements of the design are then blocked out with the wax.

To create a well-defined pattern, the waxing process is repeated on both sides of the cloth. A high quality and genuine batik is always reversible. First-rate batik is usually decorated with the canting or called hand-drawn, batik tulis.

Pencoletan, direct painting on cloth, is also a common method of making a high standard batik.

After the essential waxing process, the cloth is then dyed or colored by using either natural or chemical dyes. Traditional batik uses mainly dyes taken from a large variety of natural plants, fruits and other substances.

According to a book entitled Indonesian Batik published by Oxford University Press, dyeing was traditionally done in wide- mouthed, glazed earthenware receptacles. Now, concrete vats of various sizes can be seen in batik factories.

The book also states that the first and oldest dye to be applied in classical Indonesian batik was blue and made from the leaves of the indigo plant (Indigotinctoria).

Once all required colors are obtained from the dyeing process, the length of cloth is washed and soaked in a special solution, usually a lime solution. Finally, the fabric is thoroughly rinsed with boiling water to melt the wax.

The cyclic process of batik making is called babaran. A simply designed batik can be made through one babaran process. A more delicate and ornate design demands repeated babaran processes.

This lengthy, time and energy consuming process is what makes a quality piece of original batik so valuable.

Such a complicated waxing and dyeing process has made batik irresistible to sunlight and frequent washing, especially when using detergent.

The use of detergent will make the colors in batik easily fade, said Afif, who has collected 1,500 of the finest batik pieces.

Afif suggests the use of traditional lerak liquid to wash batik. Lerak, or kelerak, is a kind of fruit which has been used by the Javanese people for washing their batik and antique items for many generations.

Afif also said the proper storage of batik cloths is important to keep them in good quality. Traditionally, people used pepper and clove to protect batik from moths. They also often use fragrant roots which are believed to have a similar function.

Chemical substances are not recommended because they will damage the materials over time.