Batak Market thrives in Senen

Batak Market thrives in Senen

Moh. Taufiqurrahman, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

The market is not easy to find among the warren of bustling
streets and hectic trading activities in the Senen area, Central
Jakarta.

But if you make an effort, you'll find yourself standing at a
gate leading into a market thronged by people -- both vendors and
their customers -- with North Sumatran complexions and speaking
in the Batak dialect.

To make things even more obvious, the names of the shops, such
as Balige Siantar, Simalungun Karo, Manurung Tambunan and Siagian
Simatupang, make it clear that the marketplace has a strong Batak
connection. The first two of these shop names are taken from
places in North Sumatra, while the last two names are those of
Batak clans.

Yes, this is the market that many Jakartans simply call "Pasar
Batak."

Inside, you will find rows of shops selling foodstuffs and
condiments. You will easily find typical foods of North Sumatran
origin such as asam potong (chopped tamarind), mi lidi (stick
noodles), kecap Medan (Medan soy sauce), and terasi Medan (shrimp
condiment). Some other specialities are sirup markisa (passion
fruit syrup), ikan asin (salted fish), teri (dried fish), pala
(nutmeg), ketumbar (coriander) and even belau (bleaching starch).

"Our shop sells original condiments from North Sumatra, as
well as lots of other goods," Sitepu, the owner of one the shops
in a thick Batak accent, told The Jakarta Post.

Sitepu, who has run his shop since 1987, said that the
condiments were transported directly from Medan. "Trucks
regularly come from Medan bringing all these specialities," she
said.

Move deeper into the market and you will find a number of
shops selling ulos (traditional Batak apparel) as their main
merchandise. Colorful, hand-woven clothing, which is displayed
next to aromatic spices and condiments, means a treat for the
eyes and nose.

If you are religious, at the end of your stroll you can check
out the makeshift stalls in front of a music store continuously
blasting out Batak music. You will be surprised what you find.
They have Bibles and prayer books in the Batak Toba language!
That's not all, if you are of Batak origin and want to get
married, there is a guide to traditional Batak wedding rituals.
And for those Batak people stranded far away from their families
and unaware of their family trees, there is a stall selling books
on how to trace their roots.

Jefri Napitupulu, the stall owner, told the Post that some of
the books were printed in Medan. "As for the Bibles, I merely
sell it them on behalf of a church foundation," he said,
referring to Huria Kristen Batak Protestan (the Protestant
Christian Batak Association).

If you think that most of the visitors are Batak, you are
right. Although the market manages to attract non-Batak
customers, most of the visitors are still primarily of Batak
origin, Sitepu said.

The reason is simply that Batak people cannot find the goods
they need anywhere else except in this market.

"There are certain Batak foods that have to be prepared with
condiments available only in this market," said Rosdiani
Perangin-angin, an elderly lady working behind a condiment
counter.

Dishes such as sangsang (pork), lomok-lomok (young pig), dog
meat, sibahut (fried freshwater catfish) and goldfish curry have
to be cooked with certain spices available only in the Batak
market.

The market started operating in the mid-1970's when a large
number of Batak traders moved to Senen from other areas.

"They moved here after some business areas such as Copacabana
in Ancol, North Jakarta, and Jl. Kenari, Central Jakarta, were
closed down by the Jakarta city administration," said Patar
Sitorus, head of Senen market's Block VI. He also said that later
a number of businessmen from Belawan, Medan, in North Sumatra and
from Batam in the Riau archipelago also decided to seek their
fortunes in Senen.

"Around 1976, a large number of Bataks came here to set up
business in Senen as a Batak official happened to be in charge of
the market," said Napitupulu.

Nowadays, 70 percent of the traders in Senen market's Block VI
are Bataks. The total number of traders currently stands at 736.

So if you happen to be a Batak living in Jakarta, there is no
need to worry about missing out on your favorite food, clothing
or even Bibles in your native language. Just get on down to Senen
market.