Baron and Biyan show: A chemistry that works well

Hera Diani, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

First Obin and then this. Fashionistas here have been really spoiled lately with excellent collections from local designers.

Two weeks ago, on Oct. 28, there was the festive show from cloth designer Obin, who exhibited mesmerizing cloth derived from traditional fabrics.

And last week, on Nov. 2, we saw an enchanting collaboration between top designer Biyan Wanaatmadja and cloth master Baron Manansang.

At a fund raising event in front of a limited audience, both designers came up with 50 sets of clothing that were beautiful and elegant, yet modern.

It also showed a harmonious mixture of Biyan's trademark of ultrafeminine style with high quality woven cloth from Baron.

There were cocktail dresses, short dresses, as well as long coats and a poncho blouse -- all of them were mixed with either sarongs or scarfs with traditional motifs.

Biyan said there was no particular theme for the collection, which will be included in his signature style of Biyan.

Beside raising funds, it was merely a means of collaborating with an old friend.

"We want to show some illustrations on how to blend East and West. You cannot talk about cloth without talking about the East. But in this era, it has to be more universal.

"East for most of us is something nice, while East can be anything. Western people, for instance, perceive it as something exotic. I, however, don't want to literally translate the spirit of the East, as you can see in the dresses," Biyan said after the show at an exclusive home in Kemang, South Jakarta.

The show marked the third time Biyan and Baron have worked together since their first show in 2000.

According to Baron, they both have the same vision, that is the "modern Indonesian vision".

In Baron's way, it is implied in a new line of fabric which is a development of the traditional songket technique, an embroidered cloth with bits of gold and silver thread.

"But while the common songket has one smooth side and a rough and chaotic flip side, mine is smooth on both sides. So you can even wear whatever side you like," said Baron, adding that he has developed the technique for the past year.

While traditional songket comes in bright colors, Baron's is lighter in hues and with delicate textures. He also came up with ikat (woven tie-dying material) and lurik (striped woven material) patterns.

Biyan praised his partner's expertise.

"He has a high sensitivity of texture and color. Every time I work with him I feel challenged and excited, as how to translate his design into mine," he said.

To match the cloth, Biyan used a variety of fabrics: From brocade to silk, lace and tulles.

They were made into kebaya (traditional blouses) -- long and with curvy silhouette, blouse with straight volume, fringe blouse and dresses and spaghetti strap dresses.

Most of the designs are pale in shade: White, pastels, peach, but warmer colors like maroon, purple and black also exist.

Biyan is also known for his rich details, which that time was distinguished in embroidery, paillettes, beads, motifs of paisley and fern, and an adding of precious stones.

As for paisley, Biyan has been extensively using it for the past two years, saying that the motif is "exotic and very nice to be explored."

He also exposed in the show the development of kerancang embroidery technique (embroidery that is cut in the middle), which he first presented at an earlier show in June.

Both designers received big applause, for delivering something beautiful and something to be proud of.