Baron and Biyan show: A chemistry that works well

Baron and Biyan show: A chemistry that works well

Hera Diani, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

First Obin and then this. Fashionistas here have been really
spoiled lately with excellent collections from local designers.

Two weeks ago, on Oct. 28, there was the festive show from
cloth designer Obin, who exhibited mesmerizing cloth derived from
traditional fabrics.

And last week, on Nov. 2, we saw an enchanting collaboration
between top designer Biyan Wanaatmadja and cloth master Baron
Manansang.

At a fund raising event in front of a limited audience, both
designers came up with 50 sets of clothing that were beautiful
and elegant, yet modern.

It also showed a harmonious mixture of Biyan's trademark of
ultrafeminine style with high quality woven cloth from Baron.

There were cocktail dresses, short dresses, as well as long
coats and a poncho blouse -- all of them were mixed with either
sarongs or scarfs with traditional motifs.

Biyan said there was no particular theme for the collection,
which will be included in his signature style of Biyan.

Beside raising funds, it was merely a means of collaborating
with an old friend.

"We want to show some illustrations on how to blend East and
West. You cannot talk about cloth without talking about the East.
But in this era, it has to be more universal.

"East for most of us is something nice, while East can be
anything. Western people, for instance, perceive it as something
exotic. I, however, don't want to literally translate the spirit
of the East, as you can see in the dresses," Biyan said after the
show at an exclusive home in Kemang, South Jakarta.

The show marked the third time Biyan and Baron have worked
together since their first show in 2000.

According to Baron, they both have the same vision, that is
the "modern Indonesian vision".

In Baron's way, it is implied in a new line of fabric which is
a development of the traditional songket technique, an
embroidered cloth with bits of gold and silver thread.

"But while the common songket has one smooth side and a rough
and chaotic flip side, mine is smooth on both sides. So you can
even wear whatever side you like," said Baron, adding that he has
developed the technique for the past year.

While traditional songket comes in bright colors, Baron's is
lighter in hues and with delicate textures. He also came up with
ikat (woven tie-dying material) and lurik (striped woven
material) patterns.

Biyan praised his partner's expertise.

"He has a high sensitivity of texture and color. Every time I
work with him I feel challenged and excited, as how to translate
his design into mine," he said.

To match the cloth, Biyan used a variety of fabrics: From
brocade to silk, lace and tulles.

They were made into kebaya (traditional blouses) -- long and
with curvy silhouette, blouse with straight volume, fringe blouse
and dresses and spaghetti strap dresses.

Most of the designs are pale in shade: White, pastels, peach,
but warmer colors like maroon, purple and black also exist.

Biyan is also known for his rich details, which that time was
distinguished in embroidery, paillettes, beads, motifs of paisley
and fern, and an adding of precious stones.

As for paisley, Biyan has been extensively using it for the
past two years, saying that the motif is "exotic and very nice to
be explored."

He also exposed in the show the development of kerancang
embroidery technique (embroidery that is cut in the middle),
which he first presented at an earlier show in June.

Both designers received big applause, for delivering something
beautiful and something to be proud of.