Barito River main focus of life in South Kalimantan
Evi Mariani, The Jakarta Post, Banjarmasin,South Kalimantan
Many travelers to Kalimantan agree that Banjarmasin, with its busy waterways, floating market and traditional gem mining, is far and away the most interesting city on the island.
For those looking to immerse themselves in the local culture, Banjarmasin also has an interesting riverbank settlement, though at first glance it appears ugly and dirty.
In the morning, riverbank people bathe, wash, excrete and brush their teeth in the wide Barito River.
Middle class city folk might flinch at the sight, but the Barito and Martapura rivers play a vital role in the local way of life -- rather than providing a setting for tourists to sit around lamenting unrequited love or their bankrupt businesses.
Eradicate your prejudices and enjoy the sight. Be sympathetic to the cultural rather than embarrassed by it as you are not the ones forced to live without access to clean water.
Unlike lonely Kapuas in Pontianak, West Kalimantan, Barito River in Banjarmasin is still an important source of life for Banjarmasin people.
The famous floating market is one indication. Kuin market in Barito is a group of boats, to which farmers and villagers paddle every night to sell fruits, vegetables and other produce to small-scale traders, mostly women, in the capital of South Kalimantan.
When the sun rises, the small-scale traders, women with friendly yet tough faces, paddle toward the crowded city to sell their wares to the housewives who live on the riverbanks.
Take a short river tour in a rented boat to the floating market before sun rise and you will be amazed by the speed at which these boats travel.
Buy some bananas or oranges from a fruit boat, haggle a bit, as is the local custom, and bask in the first rays of sunlight, at no charge.
On the way back to the city, make your way to a floating cafe for a breakfast of rice, fried tofu and fried sweet potato as well as thick black coffee and flavorful tea.
The boat owner will provide you with a long stick with a nail driven through the end, with which you can spike your fried food.
Sip your hot drink slowly while breathing in the fresh air. Fear not for your nose, the river is not as stinky as those in Jakarta or Surabaya.
An hour from Banjarmasin lies Martapura, where local people mine and trade gems -- largely diamonds, amethyst and agate.
Take your time to visit a traditional mine before shopping at the souvenir market in Martapura.
Apart from gem stones and jewelry, the market also sells rattan goods and South Kalimantan's sasirangan garments.
Banjarmasin could also be used as a base from which to explore South Kalimantan, where the bekantan or proboscis monkeys are mostly found. However, the shy bekantan is in danger of extinction due to human infringement of their habitat -- the coastal mangrove swamps and riverine forests. It is estimated there are only 7,000 bekantan left in the wild, mostly in Kalimantan.
The story goes that on Kembang Island in Barito River, about half an hour from Banjarmasin, 25 bekantan live. A senior guide in Banjarmasin, Mukani, however, said it had been a very long time since islanders had caught sight of a bekantan.
But there are plenty of concrete bekantan or cute stuffed bekantan to cuddle.
Extreme sports lovers should visit Loksado, a district near Kandangan in Hulu Sungai Selatan, 174 kilometers north of Banjarmasin, which is famous for its bamboo rafting adventures on Amandit river and three-day trek through the Meratus mountains.
Besides the rafting, Loksado also has 40 Banjar ethnic balai or communal houses. The balai are not commercial lodgings, but visitors can talk to the head of the balai to stay there.
However, South Kalimantan is the only province on the island with no national park.
Tips on visiting Banjarmasin and surrounding areas: 1. Maybe it sounds boring to you, but you do not want to miss the floating markets. There are two in Banjarmasin worth visiting. The closer one is Pasar Kuin and another one is Pasar Lokbaintan. You have to wake up really early for peak trading hours as the market is deserted just after 8:00 a.m. 2. Do try the warung makan (food stall) and warung kopi (coffee stall) on canoes after visiting the markets. They give Starbucks a run for its money in terms of atmosphere.
3. For those who have plenty of time, charter a motorized canoe from locals to take you on a three-hour trip. Banjarmasin has a number of docks where you can rent the canoes. 3. The gem market in Martapura is worth visiting, although it is advisable to refrain from buying expensive diamonds and gems if you are not an expert. However, the market sells some cheap and interesting gems. Don't get excited over the "Made in China" or "Made in Korea" jewelry. Those are marketed at local buyers, not tourists who want something genuine like diamonds, agate or amethysts. 4. Sasirangan clothes would make a nice souvenir because they are reasonably priced and available in a wide variety of motifs and colors. 5. Ask locals or your guide where to eat the tasty soto Banjar (a spicy soup with boiled egg and chicken) and grilled freshwater fish like ikan lais or ikan patin.