Bandar Seri Begawan, a city of sultans

Jason Volker, Contributor, Bandar Seri Begawan

Question: What do you get the 'man with everything' for his birthday?

Answer: A citywide party for 60,000 people that lasts two weeks, naturally.

The Sultan of Brunei is truly a "man with everything". A billionaire 10-times over, he has two wives, 10 children, a house with 1788 rooms, 2,000 cars, 200 pet ponies, perfect health and the adoration of a nation.

Not only is he sultan of one of the world's wealthiest lands, but he can add to his already bulging, 26-word name, the titles of Prime Minister, Minister of Finance and Minister of Defense.

But this is a compassionate king. To be a citizen of Brunei is to enjoy high, tax-free wages, low interest car and housing loans, free medical care, free education, free sporting facilities and free admittance to a state-of-the-art, rollercoaster-intensive fun park. It's not surprising this is one seriously popular guy.

And love is definitely in the air as I touchdown in the capital, Bandar Seri Begawan (or BSB in short), during the Sultan's spectacular 56th birthday celebrations.

This famously peaceful city is buzzing with excitement. As the fierce tropical sun kindly calls it a day, beaming families in their best and brightest outfits amble along spacious boulevards festooned with giant birthday banners and flickering fairy lights.

Friends meet and greet with festive handshakes, then linger to chat and chuckle over fresh fruitshakes. Impromptu outdoor markets mushroom throughout the city. The heady aroma of grilling satay and doner kebab tweaks the nose of passing pedestrians.

The grassy national stadium in the heart of town is packed with children playing soccer, while nearby their parents dine alfresco under the waxing moonshine. A party soundtrack is provided by a live band expert in the rhythms of traditional Malay music.

For a fortnight each July, BSB more rightly stands for Beloved Sultan's Birthdaybash (I know, but it's the best I could come up with...)

The Brunei capital is an enclave of high-tech modernity nestled in the northwest of one of the most pristine environments on Earth: The fabled land of Kalimantan, the world's third largest island and ancestral home of only recently (we're talking just one generation here) reformed headhunting tribes.

My atlas tells me Brunei is one of the smallest countries in the world, with a land mass of just 5,765 square kilometers (to put that in perspective, Indonesia totals a whopping 1,904,000 sq km). The nation's northern coastline opens to the South China Sea, while the rest of the country is encompassed by the Malaysian state of Sarawak including a 30 kilometer chunk that cuts Brunei in half!

Things haven't always been this way. Some 500 years ago, in what is referred to as its golden age, Brunei's territory extended throughout Kalimantan and into the neighboring islands of the Philippines. Under wise and robust rulers such as The Singing Admiral (yes, even sultans have nicknames), art, religion and trade flourished, and the ancient Bruneian empire was a bonafide bigwig in medieval Southeast Asia. Even Magellan's round-the-world expedition popped in to say hi and do a little grocery shopping.

But in the 19th century, having already acquired Singapore and Peninsular Malaya, some Britons got a tad greedy whatnot and set up shop in Sarawak. A volley of "treaties" were then forced on the Bruneian sultan by James Brooke, the first White Rajah of Sarawak, as he consolidated his real estate holdings in the region.

Then in 1890, with Brunei's territory slimming fast, the final insult came when Brooke's nephew, Sir Charles Brooke, seized the district of Limbang, thus cracking Brunei in two with one almighty swipe of colonial-era White Rajahism.

I hit the streets bright and early the following morning, under brilliant rays of equatorial sunshine, to begin my exploration of the city that proves, once and for all, size doesn't matter. Though Bandar is a tiny town at just 16 sq km, it is big on attractions.

It's often said a visit to the Kampong Ayer water village is the highlight of any stay in Bandar, let me just confirm that for you: Definite highlight. Don't miss it. The place is amazing. Go now.

And who better to show me around than lifelong resident and water-taxi driver, Suharli, a jovial, middle-aged man with a thick Malay accent and an inner longing to one day break the world aquatic speed record.

"Yes sir, Kampong Ayer is made up of 42 separate villages. These are very old villages. Some families have been here for many-many generations, okay-a?"

"Okay-a."

"Yes sir, about 30,000 people live here. Half of Bandar Seri Begawan lives on the river. We have everything here in the villages' schools, shops, hospitals, police, even fire stations ... can you believe that, our fire truck is a boat-a!"

"A boat-a!"

"Yes sir, a boat-a!"

Zipping through the maze of water alleys accompanied by Suharli's snippets on speedily passing landmarks, I soon realize this humble taxi ride offers the authentic Bandar experience. This is the grassroots level. This is the Bandar style of life. This is how the city has lived and prospered for the vast majority of its existence.

Children giggle and wave as they skip along plank bridges on their way to morning class. A young lady in colorful floral dress hangs washing out her window. Three elderly men share tea on a veranda. The weather's fine. The tide flows gently. Life is unhurried.

Perhaps moved by the surrounding serenity, Suharli eases the throttle for me to fully take in the grandeur of Istana Nurul Iman, the Sultan's immense riverside palace (unfortunately out of bounds to visitors for 362 days a year). Smiling Suharli proudly tells me tales of Kampong Ayer's long history.

Signore Antonio Pigafetta, the renowned adventurer who chronicled Magellan's circumnavigation of the globe, noted in his diary back in 1519 that no one in the capital lived on land except for the sultan and his nobles. The Italian scribe estimated some 25,000 families lived in these "wooden houses standing in salt water". Then, as now, this was largely a waterborne city.

Though Pigafetta's account is the earliest record we have of the village, it's believed this sprawling web of stilt homes built bang in the middle of the Brunei River could be up to 1300 years old.

Brunei is often heralded as a kingdom of unexpected treasures, Kampong Ayer is pure serendipity.

Back on dry land, I take the short stroll to Bandar's second "must-see" attraction. There's no need to ask for directions, as the city's modest skyline is regally crowned by the radiant golden dome and heavens-piercing minaret of the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, or as locals often refer to it, "the mini Taj Mahal". I pause at the gate for a moment, heavily awestruck.

This Arabian-inspired architectural masterpiece is beyond lavish: Floor and walls made from the finest Italian marble, chandeliers and stained-glass windows shipped from England, showpiece carpets from Belgium and Saudi Arabia, and over three million pieces of Venetian glass in the iconic central dome. While outside there are ornamental gardens, pools, fountains and a replica 16th century royal barge anchored in a tranquil lagoon.

Just as I am thinking nothing can possibly compare to the sheer majesty of this holy edifice, I wander into the nearby Royal Regalia Museum and get heavily struck by awe all over again.

Reminiscent of the Crown Jewels in London, this dazzling permanent exhibition provides a rare peek into the otherworldly lifestyles of the royally rich and famous.

The Sultan's stately chariot takes up the entire oversized foyer. A collection of priceless artworks presented to the Sultan by foreign dignitaries lines the balcony. The Coronation Room houses the outlandishly stunning royal throne, glowing crowns of gold, scepters, swords, stilettos and, off to one side, two perpetually squinting security guards.

And the best part of it all? Like most attractions in the city, entry is free.

The other big name is the Jame' Asr Hassanal Bolkiah Mosque (don't bother trying to pronounce it, just call it the Kiarong Mosque as it's popularly known). Built in 1992 to commemorate the silver jubilee of Sultan Bolkiah's reign, this multi-domed monument with a quartet of minarets is the largest mosque in the nation.

It is also arguably the most handsome, with its 29 golden tops, ornate towers, cream and sky blue color scheme, landscaped gardens and gently babbling fountains. A restful aura inhabits the estate. Folk are friendly here, quick on the smile, infectiously relaxed.

I'd love to stay longer, but with dusk in the air I make the short trip back to the city center, for I have a birthday party to attend.

Happy 56th, Sultan Bolkiah! C'mon, all together now: "For he's a jolly good fel-low....."

If you go....

Where: Bandar Seri Begawan is in the north of Negara Brunei Darussalam (the country's official name, which translates as "The Abode of Peace"). Brunei is located just north of the equator in the heart of the Southeast Asian archipelago.

Getting there: Royal Brunei Airlines (phone 21-521 1842, email onlinefeedback@rba.com.bn, www.bruneiair.com) has regular flights from Jakarta to Bandar Seri Begawan.

When to go: Brunei's equatorial climate varies little throughout the year, it's always warm and muggy.

Lodging: There's not a lot of backpacker accommodation in the city, your best bet is to try the Brunei Youth Center (aka Pusat Belia, on Sungai Kianggeh Rd, phone 673-2-229 423) where air-con dorm rooms cost B$10 a night.

If you're after a little more luxury try the Brunei Hotel (95 Pemancha Rd, phone 673-2-242 372, fax 673-2-226 196) where comfortable rooms start at B$114 a night.

Dining: For cheap eats visit the Padian Food Court in the Yayasan SHHB shopping complex in downtown Bandar. Or for tasty hawker food, try the night market in front of the Sheraton Hotel. In fact, food stalls pop up all over town after dark.

Port View Seafood Restaurant (across the road from Yayasan shopping complex) offers big servings and great views of Kampong Ayer.

Getting around: This city is built for walking. Attractions in the downtown area are easily accessible by foot. If you're short on time, take a bus to anywhere in the city and surrounding suburbs for B$1. The main bus terminal is beside Yayasan shopping complex.

Currency: The Bruneian dollar is equal to Rp 5,037.

Reading: Lonely Planet Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei comes in handy on the road. On the web check out www.brunei.gov.bn and www.brunet.bn

More information: Embassy of Brunei Darussalam (Suite 1901, Jl. Jend. Sudirman No. 28, Jakarta 10210, phone 21-574 1437, fax 21-574 1463).

In BSB visit the new Tourist Information Center by the post office on Elizabeth Dua Rd (email bruneitourism@brunet.bn).