Balinese shaman 'Mangku' Tedja keeps magic alive

Jagadhita, Contributor, Bangli, Bali

Bangbang Tembuku is a small, rather nondescript village in Bangli, 60 kilometers northwest of Denpasar. But the village is home to a man many Balinese believe has inherited great magical powers.

Mangku, or high priest, Tedja Kandel, 70, is known to many villagers as a shaman who can transform himself into a frightening Leak, a demon. His bottomless knowledge of magic, he claims to have inherited from his ancestors.

People who dare to witness his powers are welcome to visit the village. If Mangku Tedja is willing, he will give such visitors an experience they will never forget, transforming from a man into a giant devil with long white hair, large red eyes and ghostly face.

Apparently, a number of politicians and noted bureaucrats once attended Mangku Tedja's special show. They sat still, waiting patiently for the shaman to call upon his powers to change his form.

But when the Mangku's face became that of a buta, or giant, and his hair suddenly grew out, many of the guests turned tail and fled.

"The ability to turn into a Leak is passed down by our ancestors. Digging deep into this inherited knowledge, I try to learn more about it," said the shaman, who is also an accomplished Calon Arang dancer.

He went on to say that the majority of Balinese, particularly those of the younger generation, had forgotten and neglected the knowledge of this magical power, which they considered irrelevant in this high-tech era.

Mangku Tedja said this age-old knowledge would not disappear, as long as the Balinese retained their belief in it and learned about it.

Yet, many people think Mangku Tedja too optimistic about the future of this powerful knowledge, since it does not appeal to younger people, who are uninterested in learning about such mystical traditions.

In addition, many parents forbid their children from acquiring the skill. "Their parents keep saying negative things about Leak, but this is actually incorrect," Mangku Tedja said.

He believes that knowledge is not inherently destructive: "God created each knowledge in the universe for a special purpose".

It was irresponsible people who often misused such powers and knowledge for their own interests and to harm their enemies, he said.

The Leak power, he explained, had both negative and positive values. "It depends on the individual, whether they explore the positive manifestation or the other."

Finding the younger Balinese generally reluctant or blase about carrying on the knowledge, Mangku Tedja has taken on foreign apprentices.

It is encouraging, he said, that a number of foreigners, including Japanese and Westerners, were keen to learn about the positive side of this rare power.

"Many of my students are now able to transform themselves into various forms of Leak," he said.

The shaman said he had a duty to mitigate the negative and evil image of Leak, which has been portrayed in local movies as a predatory, vengeful ghost.

"Leak has long been misunderstood among the Balinese as a wicked thing."

Despite the challenges from his own people, Mangku Tedja is not deterred from exploring and learning everything about this mystical power.

"Learning about Leak is not evil. The Leak power has existed for centuries -- long before I was born. This is a priceless Balinese cultural heritage, which should be preserved by the Balinese."

Many local customs and knowledge, including traditional healing, arts and history, are mastered by foreign experts because local people are reluctant to learn about their own culture and heritage.

"Bali has long been known for its rich culture, traditions and heritage, as well as its strong Hindu belief. It is the duty of all Balinese to preserve them," Mangku Tedja said.

Mangku Tedja is aware that his days are numbered, and aims to transfer his extraordinary skills and powers to those eager to carry on the knowledge.

"I will be more than willing to teach anyone, especially young people, about the Leak power -- provided that they use it in a positive way and have a strong intention to preserve it," he said.