Balinese designer blends tradition and modernity

Rita A. Widiadana and Pariama Hutasoit, The Jakarta Post, Sanur, Bali

The word "moedik" means homecoming, but for Balinese fashion designer Mardiana Ika it is a reflection of the finest clothes she has produced in her 17 years of work in various overseas countries.

Ika brought these clothes home to Bali for a solo fashion show in late March. Approximately 104 pieces of female and male clothing were displayed in the ballroom of the Radisson Hotel in Sanur, attracting hundreds of local fashion lovers who came dressed in white and silver evening dress, according to the event's strict dress code.

"White has been my signature for years and I want my show filled with white and silvery colors," Ika said by phone from Beijing a day after the show.

Ika's fashion show rested on two concepts -- tradition and modernity. The displayed pieces were divided into five categories -- Dadong (grandmother in the Balinese language), Indigo, Kebaya Hitam and Kebaya Putih (black and white traditional female blouses), Multi and Male.

The traditional Balinese outfits worn by elderly women along with tengkulak (headscarves) inspired the pieces in the Dadong collection.

Ika uses Balinese textiles like endek (single woven cloth) or black-and-white square-form poleng fabrics tailored into modern- style clothes like poleng swimwear (or so it looked!) over black- striped stockings and high-heeled shoes.

All the models at the show wore tengkulak like elderly Balinese women. Ika modified her Dadong collection with various kinds of modern fabrics like linen, knits and lycra. One stunning piece bore the likeness of an old woman on the blouse and skirt. A model even appeared wrapped in endek cloth, like a Balinese woman going to pray at the temple.

Most of Ika's designs feature clean cuts and pay attention to details. Inspired by the rich tradition of Indonesian arts, her clothes reveal intricate patterns and motifs. From the simple white, cotton shirts to the most spectacular evening wear, her clothes invariably incorporate some form of embroidery or beadwork.

"I regard myself as a spectator in the world of the imaginary, who believes in combining things that are normally in contrast," the designer explained.

Her evening gowns were colorful and glamorous. Among her most striking design was a brown transparent lace gown worn over a thick, wrapped skirt. The model surprised the audience when she unwrapped the skirt to give everyone a glimpse of her curvy body.

"I firmly believe that I draw inspiration from the places I visit and my interactions with people of different lands and of diverse cultural backgrounds.

"And all of these things have helped me develop the basic ingredients of my craft," Ika said.

Born in Pematang Siantar, North Sumatra, Ika studied design and pattern cutting in 1973 from Shanghai tailors at the famous Far East Dress-Making and Design School, long before the Hong Kong Polytechnic University opened.

In l977, Ika continued her studies at the London College of Fashion, where she learned the craftsmanship of design before working at German Fashion house L'Estelle for four years, leaving to start her own company, Butoni Limited, in Hong Kong. Now, she is the managing director and designer of Butoni Ltd.

"My life is divided between family in Bali and my profession, which requires me to travel around the world," said Ika, who is married to an American interior designer. The couple have one son.

Her Kebaya collections emerged in a variety of cuttings and colors.

"Kebaya has been the cloth of Indonesian women for centuries and I mine inspiration from its beauty and elegance," she said.

Ika presented white embroidery lace gowns -- a combination of kemben (chest-wrapped cloth) and long skirts. She also played with various kebaya styles, sometimes combining the blouses with woolen shirts.

"It is for my winter collection," said the designer, who just displayed her fall and winter collections during the Hong Kong Fashion Week.

Her clothes for men were cute and simple, consisting of white shirts over loose black or beige pants.

"I want my men to look fresh and trendy," Ika explained.

For the show in Sanur, Ika teamed with local jewelry designer Suarti, whose pieces provided the perfect adornments for Ika's designs.