Thu, 03 Apr 2003

Bali deserted for Day of Silence observance

I Wayan Juniartha, The Jakarta Post, Denpasar, Bali

Bali was uncustomarily calm and tranquil on Wednesday as the predominantly Hindu island celebrated Nyepi, the Hindu Day of Silence, which marked the Saka New Year 1925.

During the day, Hindus here are obliged to avoid light, work, traveling outside the family compound and leisure and entertainment activities.

"It is a day to silently reflect on all our past thoughts, words and deeds, to honestly review our life, to seek the truth within and to eagerly learn the art of conquering our worldly and banal desires," noted Hindu scholar I Ketut Sumarta said.

The day is observed by Hindu communities outside of Bali in a different manner. Outside of Bali, Hindus do not confine themselves to their homes, going instead to the temple to pray.

This year's Nyepi came over five months after a bombing that killed 202 people and injured hundreds of others in the resort area of Kuta.

The streets of Bali were deserted on Wednesday, while airports, harbors, shopping malls and all public places were closed. Local television station Bali TV stayed off the air for the whole day, and police officers stayed in their stations.

Only the traditional civilian guards known as Pecalang were out and about, patrolling their respective villages.

However, some Balinese clearly took the holiday lightly. Someone told The Jakarta Post that about a dozen men from his neighborhood gathered in the community hall to play the traditional card game Cap Je Kie.

There were also reports of groups of people, adults and children alike, venturing outside of their family compounds and strolling about the empty streets. The head of the traditional neighborhood association (Banjar) in eastern Denpasar was seen riding his motorbike around the area.

On the eve of Nyepi, a combination of improved security measures and nature created one of the safest Ngerupuk rituals ever.

Only three minor incidents were reported on Tuesday night, including a heated argument between security guards from local daily Bali Post and youths from Banjar Kaliungu Kaja.

Last year's Ngerupuk was marred by two intervillage brawls in Bualu and Abiansemal.

The Denpasar Police deployed some 1,250 officers, including 200 from the elite Mobile Brigade, to secure the ritual that preceded Nyepi, during which thousands of youths from villages all over Denpasar carried and paraded some 897 ogoh-ogoh (papier- mache dolls that symbolize evil spirits) across the city.

"We deliberately deployed more officers to those areas where violent conflicts are known to have occurred in the past, such as in Bualu, Nusa Dua, Abiansemal, Kuta, Petang, Mengwi, Sanur and Kuta," Denpasar Police chief of operations Comr. R. Agus Sugianto said.

Strong winds and heavy rain put an abrupt end to the parade and forced the youths to run for their homes. In the past, the youths usually ended the parade with a party, where they drank traditional liquor. These parties have more than once resulted in liquor-fueled brawls.

"Nature truly did us a favor tonight," Sugianto said.