Mon, 05 Feb 2001

At 93, batikmaker Jogo still going strong

By R. Agus Bakti

PAJIMATAN, Yogyakarta (JP): Ask people in the know about batik in Pajimatan, Imogiri, Yogyakarta, and they are sure to direct you to Ibu Jogopertiwi.

At 93, Ibu Jogo, as she is known, is still going strong producing handmade batik in Pajimatan, about 22 kilometers from Yogyakarta and the site of the graves of the rulers of the ancient kingdom of Mataram.

She has lived a simple, hard life, including residing in a cave with her father when she was young.

"It is from living in caves I acquired the expertise in making batik. I was totally self-taught in learning batik," she said.

She continues to make batik using a process that dates back centuries. The unbleached plain cloth is washed in a mixture of starch and water, after which it is dried and ironed.

The actual process of making the batik begins with the application of the wax, which is followed by the dyeing and the removal of the wax.

Although the most common coloring technique these days involves the use of a little brushed-on dye, Pajimatan batik like those made by Ibu Jogo conform to the traditional process of dipping them into the dye.

"This dyeing is known in the batik-making process as medel," Ibu Jogo said. Dyes made from plant extracts were used in the past, but today synthetic colors are used.

She added that the final two processes of dipping the fabric in the dyes and removing it were no longer done entirely in Pajimatan because of a lack of water. The materials are taken instead to Yogyakarta and Surakarta.

Ibu Jogo said the most interesting part of her work was the application of the wax with the canting, a small instrument specifically used for the process. She said it required skill and perseverance to create the desired motif.

Every area where batik is made has its own motifs and backgrounds. Ibu Jogo prefers to create her own motifs, with some of them inspired by nature. The mother of five, grandmother of 26 and great-grandmother of three applies the motifs directly without following a pattern.

One of her most recent motifs is called Irian, so named because it was created during the troubles in Irian Jaya.

In recognition of her commitment to preserving the tradition of handmade batik, Ibu Jogo was awarded the Upakarti medal in 1992.

"I really didn't want to go (to accept the medal) because I am too old, plus I am illiterate and can do nothing. Making batik is the only thing I can do."

Recognition also has come from distant shores. A Japanese entrepreneur once invited her to move to Japan.

"Although they said they would provide me with complete facilities, I refused. I already feel at peace living here and making batik with artisans and my other students."

She said the community included at least 50 batikmakers, not counting those living in the area of Girilaya, north of Pajimatan.

Another batikmaker who has lived with Ibu Jogo for about five years, Ibu Mardiutomo, said her craft was a living, but it also gave her satisfaction to be part of the preservation of a tradition.

Ibu Mardi also designs her own motifs. She plots her patterns, however, because "I couldn't make batik if I had to make it Ibu Jogo's way".

She said it was most difficult to make handmade batik on silk, because it was hard to remove the wax if an error was made. "That is why one must be very careful and patient."

The skill, technique and meticulous quality of the batik made in the area are well-known. It sometimes takes three months to complete one of the finest products. Most customers understand the length of time it takes to craft a batik, which ranges in price from Rp 200,000 to Rp 300,000.

One order came from a Yogyakarta man who wanted to give the batik to his children to show them the work of a nonagenarian. Ibu Jogo said his act moved her to tears.