Asniar Sahab

Asniar Sahab
Contributor
Jakarta

Muslim attire move thru hard time

For the last 10 years, Muslim apparel has secured a stronger
position in fashion. More and more Indonesian women are showing
much greater interest in Muslim attire as designers are showing
greater flexibility in expressing themselves to create new
designs.

It was Ida Royani, a famous singer in the 1970s, who first
introduced Muslim dress into Indonesia's world of fashion. Then
along came other names such as Ane Rufaedah, Ida Leman and Yeni
Rachman, who were later involved in the Muslim dress business for
a few years.

Other famous designers like Ramli, Adjie Notonegoro, Itang
Yunasz, Biyan and Prajudi started to follow their footsteps.
They, too, participated in designing Muslim attire before the
annual fasting month and Lebaran festivities.

By the end of 1996, the Association of Indonesian Fashion
Designing Entrepreneurs (APPMI) established a group of designers
specializing in Muslim apparel who then held their first ever
Muslim fashion show at the Jakarta Hilton Convention Center. The
show received a warm welcome, particularly from career women and
housewives.

As Muslim apparel is getting trendy and modish, with tailor-
made variations for individual taste, it comes as no surprise to
see women of all ages flock to outlets at various malls and
shopping centers in Jakarta to get their favorite designs that
also suit their budget.

Now shopping centers like Metro Plaza Senayan, Pasar Raya Blok
M and Sogo Plaza Indonesia have seen a glut of these new
creations, a sign that Muslim apparel is gaining ground. As a
predominantly Muslim country, Indonesia will surely be a haven
for both designers and entrepreneurs for Muslim attire.

So, what is going to be on offer from renowned designers for
the 2002 Muslim attire season?

During the launching of a book titled God bless the spiritual
journey of celebrities to Baitullah recently held at JW Marriott
Hotel in Jakarta, Tutty Cholid, along with Nani Rachmad and
Ramli, held a Muslim fashion show featuring their dexterity in
playing with hues.

Gaudy colors like purples, blue, orange, green and brownish-
red, which assumed greater power in their designs, were
majestically presented on silk materials designed with the
characteristics of a caftan, a loose long dress or semi kebaya
(traditional blouse), or tunic matched with a long blouse or
pants complemented with gorgeously modish and trendy headscarves.
All of their creations gave the impressions of interest and
modernity.

While Ramli featured black hues combined with songket, Nani
Rachmad presented a slightly different creation featuring bright
colors matched with batik motifs. Despite bright colors, her
creation remained modish and light and became one of the
favorites among fashion buffs.

In another show held in October this year, APPMI's Muslim
designers held Trend 2002 at Alila Hotel under the theme of
"Tropical and Ethnic".

Here Ida Royani presented night gowns studded with sequins,
bringing minimalist silhouette to become the trend of Muslim
attire next year. Scarfs wrapped around the face and hats still
remain one of her characteristics. This time her designs seemed
more realistic and the light materials used gave more freedom of
choice.

Rumah Ayu presented Muslim wear with rainbow-colored straight
silhouette. Patterns of hand-printed batik, air brushed, graphic
art on silk materials and organdy gave a light and modern
impression.

Boyonz Ilyas' designs, with his diaphanous batik and Naniek
Rosa, with her 70's and 80's styles, were more intended for young
consumers. Gusmi Jufri presented simple but modern styles with
embroidery details and smocks and Fenny Mustafa featured tunic
models of cotton, rowsilk and Thai silk, combining modern and
traditional elements. Lisa of Busana Ratu presented White Blue
Serenity and Alphiana C with chic style with batik motifs and Ane
Rufaedah gave more priority to print motifs on her Muslim wear.

The Muslim Wear Trend 2002 was lively, with bright colors.
The hands of those designers have made customers more confident
in their Muslim attire which was totally different from previous
designs.

Compared with other predominantly Muslim countries,
Indonesian designers are still more progressive and inventive in
designing Muslim wear, which includes not only dresses and
scarves but also handbags and footwear. All offer alternatives to
look different and trendy.