Asniar Sahab Contributor Jakarta

Muslim attire move thru hard time

For the last 10 years, Muslim apparel has secured a stronger position in fashion. More and more Indonesian women are showing much greater interest in Muslim attire as designers are showing greater flexibility in expressing themselves to create new designs.

It was Ida Royani, a famous singer in the 1970s, who first introduced Muslim dress into Indonesia's world of fashion. Then along came other names such as Ane Rufaedah, Ida Leman and Yeni Rachman, who were later involved in the Muslim dress business for a few years.

Other famous designers like Ramli, Adjie Notonegoro, Itang Yunasz, Biyan and Prajudi started to follow their footsteps. They, too, participated in designing Muslim attire before the annual fasting month and Lebaran festivities.

By the end of 1996, the Association of Indonesian Fashion Designing Entrepreneurs (APPMI) established a group of designers specializing in Muslim apparel who then held their first ever Muslim fashion show at the Jakarta Hilton Convention Center. The show received a warm welcome, particularly from career women and housewives.

As Muslim apparel is getting trendy and modish, with tailor- made variations for individual taste, it comes as no surprise to see women of all ages flock to outlets at various malls and shopping centers in Jakarta to get their favorite designs that also suit their budget.

Now shopping centers like Metro Plaza Senayan, Pasar Raya Blok M and Sogo Plaza Indonesia have seen a glut of these new creations, a sign that Muslim apparel is gaining ground. As a predominantly Muslim country, Indonesia will surely be a haven for both designers and entrepreneurs for Muslim attire.

So, what is going to be on offer from renowned designers for the 2002 Muslim attire season?

During the launching of a book titled God bless the spiritual journey of celebrities to Baitullah recently held at JW Marriott Hotel in Jakarta, Tutty Cholid, along with Nani Rachmad and Ramli, held a Muslim fashion show featuring their dexterity in playing with hues.

Gaudy colors like purples, blue, orange, green and brownish- red, which assumed greater power in their designs, were majestically presented on silk materials designed with the characteristics of a caftan, a loose long dress or semi kebaya (traditional blouse), or tunic matched with a long blouse or pants complemented with gorgeously modish and trendy headscarves. All of their creations gave the impressions of interest and modernity.

While Ramli featured black hues combined with songket, Nani Rachmad presented a slightly different creation featuring bright colors matched with batik motifs. Despite bright colors, her creation remained modish and light and became one of the favorites among fashion buffs.

In another show held in October this year, APPMI's Muslim designers held Trend 2002 at Alila Hotel under the theme of "Tropical and Ethnic".

Here Ida Royani presented night gowns studded with sequins, bringing minimalist silhouette to become the trend of Muslim attire next year. Scarfs wrapped around the face and hats still remain one of her characteristics. This time her designs seemed more realistic and the light materials used gave more freedom of choice.

Rumah Ayu presented Muslim wear with rainbow-colored straight silhouette. Patterns of hand-printed batik, air brushed, graphic art on silk materials and organdy gave a light and modern impression.

Boyonz Ilyas' designs, with his diaphanous batik and Naniek Rosa, with her 70's and 80's styles, were more intended for young consumers. Gusmi Jufri presented simple but modern styles with embroidery details and smocks and Fenny Mustafa featured tunic models of cotton, rowsilk and Thai silk, combining modern and traditional elements. Lisa of Busana Ratu presented White Blue Serenity and Alphiana C with chic style with batik motifs and Ane Rufaedah gave more priority to print motifs on her Muslim wear.

The Muslim Wear Trend 2002 was lively, with bright colors. The hands of those designers have made customers more confident in their Muslim attire which was totally different from previous designs.

Compared with other predominantly Muslim countries, Indonesian designers are still more progressive and inventive in designing Muslim wear, which includes not only dresses and scarves but also handbags and footwear. All offer alternatives to look different and trendy.