Aristocratic white asparagus reigns on a plate
By Mehru Jaffer
JAKARTA (JP): It was devoured by Julius Caesar and adored by Pompadour, and the ultimate fantasy of chef Kai-Uwe Klenz is to bite into a crunchy asparagus as well. The one condition is that it should be of the white variety.
It was his grandfather's kitchen garden that got the young Klenz addicted to the slender vegetable of the lily family. As he grew up, he vowed to study the art of cooking so that he could prepare the succulent spring stalks the way they were offered to him as a child. As chef at the Kempinski Hotel Munich, Klenz, 32, spends much of his time flying around the world to spread his love for asparagus in places far and wide.
He comes to Indonesia with over 300 kilograms of the vegetable, which was prized by epicures even before Roman times, and pages full of recipes. He admits that it is easy for him to nibble away at a kilogram a day without an "ooh" or an "ah".
"But this is not because of my love for asparagus," clarified Klenz to The Jakarta Post as he pointed to his paunch. For the only thing plump about asparagus is its own juicy stalk.
The white asparagus is a highly nutritious vegetable that is considered a good source of vitamins A and C and also of minerals, potassium, phosphorus and iron. It is said to be ideal for all those on a low-sodium diet or who count calories, as they are promised no harm in consuming a plate of the plain vegetable a day. However, it is the butter and cheese sauces that invariably drown the seasonal vegetable and may cause people to become a kilo or two heavier at the end of spargel zeit, or asparagus time.
The aristocrat among vegetables was first mentioned in writing nearly 2,000 years ago not as a delicacy, but as a medicinal herb which was cultivated only in convents or at curative herb gardens. Later, nobility favored it and it remained a luxury available only to the ruling elite until 150 years ago.
It has taken the Germans hundreds of years to master the technique of growing asparagus and keeping the white variety protected from sunlight which gives all vegetables chlorophyll, the matter that colors plants green. Klenz is happy that the vegetable is now available to one and all, the best variety coming from Bavaria, making Schwetzingen the most famous asparagus city in the world.
Although asparagus was brought to Europe from Siberia, over the centuries spargel mania has become a very German thing. Available throughout the year, the finest, freshest variety is found only at springtime. Cultivated under the earth and harvested in the early morning dawn, the sight of the tip of an asparagus head popping out of the earth is a culinary celebration in Germany.
Between the end of April and June 24, all of Germany seems to do little else but pay homage to the royal vegetable. And how?
Menus at most restaurants are supplemented with a special asparagus fare offering at least 50 different ways to serve it. Asparagus contests are held everywhere and asparagus queens are chosen at specially organized festivals.
Helmut Zipner -- also known as Spargel Tarzan -- is listed in the Guinness Book of Records for consuming the greatest amount of asparagus in the shortest number of hours. For the bookish, there are plenty of seminars and talks on the same subject. So much is made of the asparagus as it signifies the advent of spring.
Traditionally, the asparagus season was observed between the end of Christmas festivities and the beginning of spring.
The white-colored asparagus, rising erect from the belly of winter, "as dark as the devil's soul", is seen as a symbol of hope and life thereafter. After months of overcast skies and a life bound by much snow, the joy of seeing the first ray of sunshine and the promise of much greenery to come, is unimaginable.
"When I close my eyes and think of the asparagus I also see images of birds singing, the sun shining and all the trees sprouting fresh green leaves and colorful blossoms," Klenz said as he vigorously whipped cream for the white asparagus soup, part of the set menu available at Jakarta's Kempinski Hotel.
Klenz adds that he enjoys asparagus only during the spring when it is white and still freshly available. After every June 24, he does not touch the vegetable until next spring.
White asparagus dishes are being served until May 27 at the Java restaurant (for reservations call 251-0888, extension 6605).